UPGRADE FROM REBEL XT FOR SPORTS

<p>I own the Canon Rebel XT with the Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8, Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8, and Canon 50mm f/1.8. I am wondering if upgrading will help me "get the most out of my lenses". My shots are frequently soft and I feel like I really need higher ISO, especially for faster sport shooting. Will upgrading to say a 50D help this problem? I am needing to stay with the cropped sensor cameras, simply for the money. Also, I prefer CF cards as well, because I have invested in an 8GB extreme. I have tried adjusting shutter speed and aperture, and the problem still exits, even in well lit arenas and gyms. Any advice would be appreciated.</p>

<p>I don't know the Sigma lenses you have, but an XT should not be "soft".</p>

<p>It will be nicer to move up to a camera that has more pixels and more choice of high ISOs, but the XT itself has enough pixels that you should be able to get fair enlargements.</p>

<p>So, yes, a 50D or better still a 7D, would be a big step up in both pixels and ISO abilities, but whatever is making your pictures "soft" now will probably still be there with the newer camera. Maybe you need new lenses, maybe you're getting blurring from motion (higher ISO will help with that, anyhow), or maybe you need more accurate focus (remember telephotos have little depth of field used wide open). It could even be that you are seeing "softness" in looking at 100% views where you are really looking at a blowup of some feet wide and tall with your nose right up against the print? All images will tend to be "soft" when looked at on that scale and so close.</p>

<p>Try selecting the center AF point only and keeping it on the subject. This will give you more in focus shots. Set your f/stop to 2.8 so that you can use the highest possible shutter speed. I shoot in RAW and use manual mode. By doing this I can set f/stop to 2.8 and shutter to 1/500 to ensure I freeze the action, if the shot is underexposed, which most are, I adjust it in post processing. When you adjust exposure in a RAW file it is a clean adjustment and looks like it came out of the camera correctly exposed, not like brightening a Jpeg and just whiting out the picture. Also, you shouldn't need to use more than ISO 1600 unless you're in a dark gym. In well lit gyms you can use ISO 1250 or sometimes even 800 with your 2.8, and outdoors even lower ISO's like 200. I don't think a 50D will make your photos look better, but the higher burst rate will increase your chances of getting a good shot. I'd look at the 40D also. Its the same camera as the 50D, but with 10MP instead of 15. I know this will be debated, but with so many pixels on the 50D's sensor, it creates more noise at higher ISOs than the 40D. I've used both and I like the 40D better. And 10MP is plenty anyways. The 6.5 frames per second of these cameras are better suited for sports, but you probably won't be able to tell a difference in actual photo quality.</p>

<p>First, start pushing the XT up to ISO 1600 and see if that solves your problem. There's alot of bad press out there for high ISOs, but I find it's better to use them and get my fast shutter rather than lose sharpness due to shutter drag. If you're currently afraid to take your Rebel XT above ISO 200 or 400, you're missing out on alot of its potential.</p>

<p>The Rebel XT is not your main problem although you will find a Rebel T1i has better low light quality due to the improved sensor and digic 4 processor. The non IS Sigma 70-200 is probably more the issue especially for indoor photography. Years ago I switched from a Sigma 70-200 to a Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS and was just amazed at the difference. </p>

<p>What you need is the EOS 7D. That will improve your sport shot pictures by a considerable factor. That with the 50 1.8 will do perfect for indoor sports.</p>

<p>I agree with above - an XT isn't going to be your softness source. It could be damaged (secondhand) glass, focus precision off.. Or it could be user technique, which is usually the problem.<br>

<br /> Hal made a good point too. I'd much rather have linear, non-patterned high ISO noise in a crisp shot than have a blurry but fine-toned low ISO image any day. You can save noisy images; you can't really save blurry images.<br>

<br /> Check out the 20/30D. Frame rate is almost twice as fast and you'll notice a significant difference in performance, but not necessarily IQ. Newer Rebel models are ok, but when you move to advanced amateur bodies, you will greatly appreciate the luxuries they offer you compared to Rebels.</p>

<p>Also, I don't think the lenses you're shooting are particularly optimized for sharpness wide open. I welcome any correction though.</p>

<p>The comments made above are all fair and correct. You have a common problem and you need to isolate the cause before moving forward. Both the XT and the lenses are capable of good results in static well lit situations. Check that this is so first, if not, then find out what is wrong, check focussing, camera steadiness and shutter speed.<br>

If the static test is good then your problem could be technique or limitations of your gear, or a bit of both. Remenber, focus, steadiness and adequate shutter speed are your friends for action as well.<br>

Using a large tele lens such as the Sigma 70-200 EX on moving targets is difficult. It takes a lot of practice to pan correctly irrespective of the shutter speed used. Try taking a burst on a moving target to see how you go.<br>

Try different shooting styles, for example pre focus on a spot and trip the shutter when the action arrives there. Use panning to follow the action and trip the shutter as it unfolds.<br>

The XT has a poor viewfinder, so so AF, and that heavy Sigma doesn't have IS or OS. I see these as the limitations of your equipment that you could look to address once you have sused out what the present problems are. Yes, you have good gear for near static or predictable action, not so good when the action speeds up.<br>

FWIW I have an XTi and a 70-200 EX. Capable of very sharp photographs, but I realize I would be in another world attempting fast action sport.<br>

Neill</p>

 

<p>for sports i would get a 7D because of the better AF. if that doesnt solve your problem, most likeley your technique is at fault.</p>

Yes the 7D is great. It's also the price of two 50D's or six second hand 30D's.

 

I support the idea of playing a bit more with your XT. But I think you'll be happy when you upgrade. Where to upgrade to

is pretty much a budget issue.

 

And by the way, people who trash the 50D might not have taken enough time to master it and it's post processing. It is not

an easy camera to get perfect results from, but it sure can create them.

 

Regards, Matthijs.

<p>How much would you be looking to spend? <br>

I would advise on getting rid of all your sigma lenses and also buying a newer camera with a full frame sensor. By staying with a cropped sensor, you are extremely limiting yourself. Also, i would get rid of the sigma lenses. In my experiences with sigma, they will almost always be "soft" because they arent high end. They are an off brand (and you do get what you pay for). Save your pennies. It will pay off in the end.</p>