Underwater Photography

I want to try my hand at underwater photography, but don't know where to start. I need a camera which will allow me to shoot up to 20 meters below the surface.

 

<p>

 

At first, I would like to try something inexpensive. If I like underwater photography, I may graduate to something a bit more elaborate.

 

<p>

 

The Adorama catalog lists a few different options. A case for my Elan IIe would run about $550 -- more than I want to spend at first. There are other underwater cameras for $200 or so -- certainly a possibility. They also sell something that looks like a case for a disposable point and shoot for under $100 -- quite affordable, though probably not as good.

 

<p>

 

I know the basic rule of optics -- the more it costs the better it gets. If you have any experience with these (or other) underwater photo options, please respond. What kind of results can I expect from each of the underwater systems?

 

<p>

 

Also, what film do you generally use under water? My guess is 400 or 800 print film because of the relative lack of light, though I could certainly be wrong.

 

<p>

 

Thanks.

There are several 35mm underwater-snapshot cameras out there. The main problem with them is the built-in flash. UW work is heavily dependant on flash. Using slow film doesn't work, since water filters out everything but the blue light. You need the flash to restore color, or everything comes out a slate blue-gray. With the cheap cameras you're working with a single flash, straight on, so you get that lovely flat-lit snapshot look. If you just like scuba diving and want to bring back some snapshots, you'll get some nice ones, though.<P>For serious photography, I'm afraid there really aren't any good cheap options. Even with your housing, you'll need a housing for your strobe too, and things start to get expensive.<P>Serious UW photographers shoot slide film like everyone else.

Uh...that should be "using <B>fast</B> film doesn't work" (as an alternative to flash).

Steve, The first thing that I would do is get certified in scuba diving! :-) No, seriously, there is an advanced certification course for underwater photography.

 

<p>

 

If you get certified for open water with PADI or NAUI (which are the two main certification boards), the next course you can take is "Advanced Open Water". Once you complete this course, you are able to take any number of "elective" courses, including one on underwater photography. You can't take the course without going through Beginning and Advanced Open Water first.

 

<p>

 

Personally, I wouldn't spend A DIME on equipment until taking this course. Underwater photography has different rules. The light wavelengths that penetrate get bluer and bluer as you go down deeper, etc.

 

<p>

 

Also, this course will teach you a lot of the intricacies (sp?) that will save you wasted shots.

<P>I just returned from my Kauai vacation where I got my PADI normal Open Water Certification. I know of the UW photography portion of the Advanced certification.

 

<P>I own a Contax 167MT manual-focus SLR that will <EM>never</EM> make a dive. I've seen the Reefmaster-type cameras (very kludgy). I don't want a Nikonos. I don't want to dive with ten Aquatica housings.

 

<BLOCKQUOTE>All I want is the underwater equivalent to the Yashica T4 Super rated for 1 ATM.</BLOCKQUOTE>

 

<P>It doesn't need to take pictures on dry land. I <EM>already</EM> have the T4. I just want a camera that doesn't require a ziplock baggie to make it to 1 ATM.

I agree with you, Sean, that an underwater T4 would be quite nice. One problem though -- every camera I have ever seen, including the T4, is good to 1 ATM. This is the pressure at the surface. You probably meant that you wanted it to be good to 10 meters, or 2 ATM of pressure. Personally, I would like to see it go to 20 meters (3 ATM).

Steve,

 

<p>

 

I agree that 3 ATM would be better than 2 ATM. However, in my experience with about 40-50 open water dives, I rarely have a day without going below 60' (3 ATM).

 

<p>

 

Normally, a day's diving includes 2-3 dives. They progress from deepest to shallowest. The deepest (first) dive is usually to a wall, or a wreck, or some other interesting thing that is located well below the surface.

 

<p>

 

Interestingly enough, the most fascinating reef life (barracudas, lion fish, parrot fish, grouper, etc) is usually located in less than 40'! That's good for photography because once you get down below that depth (water clarity depending) you start needing flash. Actually, you need flash at almost any depth, but I'm just saying that in the tropics, where the water has 200-300' visibility, you can get away without it down to about 30'.

<P>Oops, my mistake. I want a camera rated for<EM>2</EM> ATM. My guess is that the camera will probably take another 0.5 ATM before possibly crapping out, but that's 15 meters (45 feet) and good enough for me.

Do you know Minolta has made several point and shot APS camera that can be used UW? There is a series of about 4 cameras, one (GX-4?) can be used under about 10-20 feet. It cost about US$130.

What you pay for with underwater housings is convenience. The Ewa bags (cheap) seem to be water-tight but I find that they press in so much on the camera that the camera becomes essentially useless.

 

<p>

 

Most UW photogs use big strobes and high-saturation color slide film, e.g., Fuji Velvia or the Kodak ISO 100 films (the old standby was Fuji RDP I think). I guess this is partly because image editing is so difficult. So many of the shots are wasted that UW photogs end up getting their film developed but not mounted. Then they pick a good frame or two and have it mounted.

 

<p>

 

Good luck and try not to get yourself killed :-)

I just flipped through book of reef photography (I can't remember title or author right now, but his images were top-notch). I thought the sound points of advice were these: 1) Use whatever equipment you're most familiar with (that means UW housing, $$$). You'll forget the pain of $400+ soon after you realize the convenience, and the extra safety of not having to fool with your gear as much. 2) Dive with a non-photog buddy. It seems even the seasoned pros get wrapped up in their work and can forget about safety. 3) Dawn, dusk, and nightime are the best times to photograph (reefs especially). Many interesting creatures remain hidden in the daylight hours. 4) Use a slightly run-down battery powered torch. Not only will it make you invisible to any skittish creatures in front of it, it also makes your choice of film speed less critical.

The Aquashot from Ikelite is a case that fits around either a Kodak or Fuji point and shoot which will go to around 150ft but has limited potential. You can get pretty good shots with it though (check out the Ikelite web page (http://www.ikelite.com) considering the camera you start with.

 

<p>

 

If you want to try out some serious U/W photography many dive resorts and some dive shops have rental gear, plus there are specialists who can also rent. This avoids the initial cost but is still $45 -100/day, but might be the best if you just want to try it out.

 

<p>

 

If you really want your own gear then it's either a housing or a Nikonos V. I have an Ikekite (lexan) housing which runs around $500 plus a $70 port for the lens. Then you'll need strobe(s), $250-500 ea, plus synch cords $150 (TTL), plus arms, $100 etc. It's not cheap and the aluminum housings run $1500 or more plus $300-500 for the port (which looks cheap compared to the now defunct Nikonos RS at $4000 plus for body and lens).

 

<p>

 

Below about 10-15ft you need a strobe (or two) as red light is rapidly lost and you end up with mainly blue light. For wide angle remember that water absorbs light much more strongly than air and the basic rule is that you must be closer than 5ft to light your subject no matter how strong a strobe you use (there are exceptions), this means a 20mm or wider lens (=24mm on land) to get decent looking photos of people, sharks, rays, mammals etc.

 

<p>

 

For most people the best way to learn is to take a course or go diving with a friendly U/W photoger who can help you - don't expect them to actually act as buddies who'll be looking out for you, they're too busy looking for images (many U/w photogers dive alone so as to rule out this onerous duty).

 

<p>

 

The flashlight trick mentioned earlier can be enhanced by placing a red filter over the bulb - most U/W critters don't see red since there's so little of it in the water, thus at night they aren't scared off by the bright lights.

 

<p>

 

If you want more info. email me directly and I'll try to help.

A good source of information on UW-photography is the UW Photo web page http://www.repost.com/uw-photo/

 

<p>

 

There are good references and you can search the UW-Photo mailing list archives for specific information on which cameras and film are best and how much you can expect to pay etc. Some of the world's best UW photographers contribute regularly to the mailing list. [The preferred films for UW use are Fuji Velvia (50) and Provia (100) as well as new Kodak lside films. This assumes bright daylight for available light shots or sufficient strobe power.]

 

<p>

 

Some other good reference pages are

www.ikelite.com and www.seaoptic.com

 

<p>

 

One note - I have found UW photography very addictive - and expensive - but well worth it!

Some answers:

 

<p>

 

1) Housings are big and bulky but allow through the lens composition.

 

<p>

 

2) 300 Joules of flash energy capable of covering a 15mm nikonos lens (or 20mm slr lens in a dome port) will get you to about f11-16 at 3 apparent feet underwater (4 measured feet) using ISO 100 film.

 

<p>

 

3) Such flash units are large and must be mounted well off camera to avoid backscattered light from particulates in the water.

 

<p>

 

4) You NEED a flash below 10' -- above 10' you can usually compensate for the color absorption.

 

<p>

 

5) PADI/NAUII certification is unnecessary -- basic open water or advanced open water is all that is needed plus common sense, experience and so on. Spend those $$ on a cpr/rescue diver/first aid course and film.

 

<p>

 

6) Standard UW film these days seems to be Fuji -- Provia 100, Sensia II or Velvia. I use Sensia 100.

 

<p>

 

7) Expect to pay about $400 for a basic P/S Sea & Sea outfit w/a flash (external) about $500-$600 for a housing and about $600 to $1000 for a 200-400 Joule Flash and cord, battery, charger, arm and tray. A used Nikonos V is about $500 to $600 w/a 35mm Nikonos lens, a bit more with the 28mm Nikonos -- you will want the 28mm lens.

 

<p>

 

8) Wide angle and get close are the rules for U/W photos -- the less H2O between you and your victim the sharper the photo will be (fewer particulates and higher F numbers).

 

<p>

 

9) A 35mm Nikonos underwater => 45mm to 50mm SLR above water, a 28mm Nikonos underwater => a 35mm lens Above Water.

 

<p>

 

10) Corrolary to #8 above -- don't smash into any coral keep your alternate air source, console, fins and anchor off the coral. Wear about 10-20% more weight than normal so that you can keep youself down on the sandy areas when trying to get a good close-up.

 

<p>

 

11) Diving from a small boat -- drop a 3 meter to 5 meter long line with a clip and a weight from the side of the boat (tie it off securely topside!!!) so that you can clip your camera gear to the line underwater before you try to haul out yourself at the end of the dive -- the BC, Tank etc. are going to require both hands to manage to get aboard. REMOVE THE G&^^$(@!! WEIGHT BELT FIRST!!!!! when you go to board the boat if you are going to have to shed the BC in the water (you'll sink like lead with the BC off and the lead weight belt on!!).

 

<p>

 

Enjoy,

 

<p>

 

Grover Larkins

I'm afraid that underwater photo gear is inherently more expensive

than topside equipment. A cheap initial toy might be a ewa-marine

flexible case (with a cheap p&s inside), for instance, but in anything but ideal conditions (noontime sun, 100 ft plus visibility, shallow water) you are unlikely to get great pictures with such a

setup. I recommend getting a Nikonos with a 28 mm lens and a good

flash with a long arm. If you get serious, then you can get the

Nikon 15 mm lens, which is probably the best wide-angle underwater

lens available, more flashes, and extension tubes for macro work

on sessile organisms. This equipment is what produces most of the

published underwater photographs. If you want to do close-ups of

mobile things (like fishes) then you might want to consider a housed

SLR with a big ("action") finder and a macro lens. These latter

options imply spending as much money as would buy you a new compact

car, though.

You may wish to read the article on the underwater photographer Chris Newber in the Wall Street Journa. It is in the April 24 edition on page W14. The article includes two of his pictures which look great even on newsprint. The article discusses his two books plus some of the unusual problems he has to solve underwater.

<html>

<head>

<title>Untitled Document</title>

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">

</head>

 

<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">

 

<p> </p>

<p>Thought you may find this interesting/useful...its an article written regarding

the basics of underwater photography...how to get into it, what you need to

know, etc.....<a href="http://www.usefilm.com/articles/underwaterphotography/">Underwater

Photography Basics: So You Wanna Jump into the Water with your Camera?</a><br>

</p>

<p><a href="http://www.usefilm.com">Usefilm.com</a><br>

Projects for Photographers</p>

<p> </p>

</body>

</html>