Types of film and processing

Hello

 

I am quite new to photography so I apologise if this sounds like a

stupid question but I cant find any info on these questions on the

net. Could anyone explain the basics in the different types of films

and processing? eg: What is the difference between Fujichrome and

Fuji Colour Print? Why are some of these films listed as 36 exp and

also as a 120 roll? What is E6 and C41 processing? I shoot mainly

indoor bodybuilding competitions and have so far only used 400 and

800 Fuji Superia, had good results but when enlarged I could do with

a bit sharper image any suggestions on a better film?

 

Regards

T.

Let's see.

 

Most (all?) films with the term "chrome" in the name are slide film.

 

36exp almost always refers to 135 (ie 35mm) film. 120 film is a different sized film (6cm wide) that works in medium format cameras.

 

E6 processing is for slides.

 

C41 is the name for standard color processing, but you will find a few B&W films that use this process.

 

As far as which film to use, there are lots of variables in getting sharp shots, and you have not given us enough information to really help you. How large an enlargement are you after? What exposure settings do you normally use? With tripod or without? (I'm intentionally leaving out which lens you used, but knowing wouldn't hurt).

 

Considering you're new to photography, I'd look at your technique as opposed to worrying too much about film or equipment. Although I wouldn't necessarily shoot Superia, you can get acceptably sharp 8x10's out of it. The sharpest hand-held photos I've seen are actaully from marksmen; they are really practiced at keeping their hand steady. At least one I know commonly hand-holds a full stop or two below what I can reliably accomplish.

 

-Sandro

From Tauseef's thread on the Canon EOS forum:<P>

"I'm fairly new to photography and am looking for a decent zoom lens to go with my EOS 33. I did have a 75-300 f4-f5.6 USM and took some good photos several of which are going to be published, but I want the pics to be even sharper with better colour saturation. I will mainly be taking indoor photos of bodybuilding competitions and evening weddings."<P>

 

He is thinking of getting a 70-200L f2.8 or f4.0. My response was to get a Canon 50mm f1.8 to see what a truly sharp lens can do and to use Fuji NPH 400 film.

You might want to try Fujicolor Portrait NPH, Fujifilm's pro 400-speed film. VERY accurate color & VERY sharp. It's probably the film you've been looking for!

Thanks for all the responses and the breakdown Sandro. As james said I am going to purchase the 70-200 f.8 NON IS and will be shooting mainly handheld indoors. Heres a sample image I shot using a 75-300 f4-f5.6 USM.

try again.<div></div>

Some films are available in standard 35mm format for 36 exposures, and also in 120 format which sometimes also is referred to as 'rollfilm' and used in medium format cameras such as the Hasselblad.

 

Medium format film today is mainly used by professionals, so some types of films mainly designed for the amateur market are NOT available in 120 format, and some 120 films designed for professional applications are not available in 35mm format.

Tauseef,<BR>

 

Very nice photo. My suggestion was to get a Canon 50mm F1.8 lens <I>in addition</I> to the zoom lens that you would need. The tack sharp 50mm would be a good lens with which to compare the sharpness of other lenses.

James - I think I will look to get the 50mm f1.8 once I've got the zoom as I will use it more for this type of work. I hear what you are saying about the sharpness but having spoken to people who do the same type of shots they also use the 70-200L for close ups too and right now I need the zoom. Thanks for the comment on the pic, like I said it was my first time out with the camera, shame I didnt get any constructive feedback from the critique forum.

The photo looks good. The one thing that detracts, as I'm sure you realize, is that off center sign at the bottom. That should be cropped out. The image looks a bit soft, particularly the men in the background. That could just be the result of viewing on a monitor. The flesh tones look good. Superia is a fairly low contrast film; I don't think it could do much better to reduce the baby oiled highlights. Or even if you want those highlights reduced. You might want to try some Fuji NPH or Portra NC to see if there is a difference in the results. <BR>Something to think about- magazine covers and pages are vertical. You might want to shoot more verticals when possible.