Two weeks in Cuba

<p>I'll be heading to Cuba in April for 16 days and am trying to figure out an itinerary to make the most of photographic opportunities. I'll be travelling by myself and I'm not a beach person, so I'll mostly be sticking to cities, towns, and the countryside. I'll be flying in and out of Havana. Initially I had planned to do all the major sites from Havana to Santiago de Cuba, but that seems to be a bit ambitious for a two week journey (considering I'll be taking the bus between major centres). Conversely, my other thought is to spend the two weeks in one half of the country (east or west) to get more out it. </p>

<p>For those of you that have been there fairly recently, is this what you would recommend? I hope to stay casa particulares and travel with Viazule (bus). I know that Cuba has changed a lot over the past few years (based on what I've read here) and my guidebooks are all outdated by a few years (the new editions won't come out until after my trip) so I'd appreciate any current advice about where to go (and where to avoid). I don't how easy it is to get off the beaten track without a car and good Spanish skills, but I'd like to try if it's possible. The entire purpose of this trip is a photographic one, and I'd like to capture the essence of the country and the people (good and bad). At least, as much as possible for a first-timer on a two-week trip. ;-)</p>

<p>Finally, I've heard that the airport authorities are quite strict on baggage weight. I'm not so concerned about my backpack as I am about my carry-on luggage. Do they weigh this as well? I really need to know since I'd like to bring a few cameras, and they tend to weigh down the bag quite a bit.</p>

<p>Cheers.</p>

<p>My suggestion would be to pick 3-4 sites, and to spend 3-5 days at each one. You'll get a better feel for each place, and you'll get to know your host family a bit better. Your idea of casas particulares and travelling with Viazul is a good way to travel. You only need to book your first casa, then tell the owners where you want to go next and they'll book your next casa for you - use the local grapevine. If you want to get off of the beaten track you can rent a bicycle or a scooter for a day.<br /></p>

<p>My suggestions: Havana. I recommend just wandering around. This place is eye candy. Very safe too, comparable to big cities in N. Am. and opposite to other big cities in Central Am. which are best avoided. You'll end up running into situations and talking to people.</p>

<p>Trinidad. The townsite is very photogenic and charming, but touristy also. You'll meet pushy jiniteros and salt-of-the-earth nice people. Don't miss the casa de musica, live performances behind the plaza vieja at night. One day we rented some bicycles and cycled into the valle des ingenios - very much off of the beaten track. You don't need to be fluent at Spanish, just some basic phrases will get you far. I recommend picking up a little phrasebook.</p>

<p>I like Cienfuegos as well. Easy stop on the way to Trinidad. Santa Clara is also a popular stop.</p>

<p>I've been wanting to go to Vinales but I haven't made it out there yet. The Pinar del Rio region got hit hard by hurricanes this summer. I'm sure your visit would be welcomed very much. Stuff your pack with extra clothing, knicknacks (e.g. toiletries, school supplies), and perhaps even food. On my last visit to Cuba 2 months ago I wished I would have brought bags of powdered milk. The situation in Cuba is quite desperate right now, and you'll make friends by giving away extra clothing and stuff you don't need.</p>

<p>I last flew to Cuba with Skyservice. My checked bag got weighed but my carry-on did not. Bring DEET - there's been lots of mosquitos and sandflies after the hurricanes.</p>

<p>Wow Arie, you seem to know quite well my country. I left 20 years ago, but the attitude and behavoir of people there is the same as you describe. I have never gone back, and I regret it, but at the same time I feel like will be a shocking and depressing experience to me to see how conditions have deteriorated over 20 years.Rachelle, good luck on your trip,Arie's advice is sound, just be careful and don't lose your passport or you can end in a quite difficult and non desirable situation, recently I read an article on the newspaper about an american travelling in a boat along w/his wife, got caught in a storm, ended in Cuba's shore, got apprehended by the cuban patrol and expended quite a few days in a no so friendly prision because they didn't have their passport with them. Take care and good luck</p>

<p>Aire,<br>

Thanks for the great response! You've really reconfirmed what I thought I might do. I've often read about bringing extra goods and giving it away, but who do you give it to? The people in the casas? People you meet? Or are there organizations that deal with that kind of stuff? I'd like to bring some things, but am not sure the best way to go about it.</p>

<p>Rachelle, I usually keep some stuff in my daypack to give away to people during the day. I've given stuff to people who run the casas. Last trip I stayed at a place where the owner was quite well off, but there was an older couple doing chores around the house. They looked very poor, and we gave them a safeway bag full of stuff. Their faces lit up and there were tears in their eyes.</p>

<p>Giving away stuff can be awkward. I didn't know what to say, so I'd say stuff like "I've got a few things here that I don't need anymore, maybe you know someone who'd like this stuff" or something like that. But once you make the effort you'll make someone very happy - the chance of offending someone is close to zero. If you're really reluctant I suppose you could leave safeway bags with stuff at random street corners - you'll miss out on the opportunity to meet the recipient but the stuff will find a home for sure. There are no organizations - you're a one-person organization. You can make a big difference in the lives of a few people.</p>

<p>p.s. kids you meet in the street love bubble gum</p>

<p> I would suggest the people you meet. I was born in Cuba, and can tell you Cubans are outgoing, sociable, friendly, and very open. It sounds like a wonderful trip. Travel light. Too much weight will dilute your concentration. Look at David Alan Harvey's book on Cuba, shot mostly on a 35mm lens.</p>

<p>http://selectedphotographs.blogspot.com/2007/10/david-alan-harvey-cuba.html</p>

<p>Here's a video of him working there.</p>

<p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aES5WD22FBA</p>

<p> I am not suggesting you only take one body/lens, but Cuba's one of those places where the distance required by a long lens is almost a crime in that it keeps you from getting close to your subjects.</p>

<p> You may want to look at pictures of Cuba, not for things to shoot, but to rule out, because it's one place that it seems every docu/street photographer in the western hemisphere has been to, and 90% have come back with the same cliche's.</p>

<p> Be prepared, you're going to leave a little piece of your heart there.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think there's a big difference between observing life and observing places. If the former then you can stay even in a smallish place for several days whilst you immerse yourself in it and photograph what you see. If you're first and foremost an observer of places ( which I am) then once you've been somewhere long enough to see the parts of town you're interested in, be sure you've recognised what you want to photograph and made sure you have it in optimum light, then its time to move on.</p>

<p>For Havana and Trinidad, the difference between these approaches isn't much of an issue. Havana is worth several days of anyone's time and even though Trinidad might be less authentic and more touristed than it was, it was still , when I was there last at end 2004, very well worth a few days. The issue comes when you look at some of the other towns. The likes of Cienfuegos, Sancti Spiritus, Santa Clara and Remedios are very pleasant and they do have some interesting photography. But unless you're an avid observer of life I wouldn't spend 3-5 days in any of these places, though moving around more frequently puts pressure on transportation and increases travel time at the expense of photgraphy time. I've always hired a car in Cuba ( well, outside Havana anyway)so I could be sure of getting around in my own time, but I have to say that driving is not a fun experience because of a lack of road signs and good detailed maps. </p>

<p>I think that striking the right balance between staying and moving for the type of photography you want to carry out is vital for this sort of trip.</p>