Tripod for multi frame panorramic

<p>Hello all,<br>

I would like to experiment with multi frame panoramic, or stitching together multiple frames to create a panoramic. Does anyone know of a tripod head that has markings to help align a series of frames for a more precise end result?<br>

Thank you</p>

<p>There are several on the market, good ones are $$$. Start here http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You can use a panoramic head, like a NodalNinja, on each tripod.</p>

<p>try for a panorama head. it is cheap fairly ugly but it works very well. and i use it, works well.<br>

<a href="http://gregwired.com/pano/pano.htm">http://gregwired.com/pano/pano.htm</a></p>

<p>I've used Manfrotto panoramic head and slider bars, and Nodal Ninja 3 pano head.</p>

<p>Both work very well. The Manfrotto stuff is about $400, Nodal Ninja 3 a bit under $300.</p>

<p>The Manfrotto is heavier, but IMO easier to use fast when shooting groups. The Nodal Ninja 3 packs a lot smaller, performs equally well, but would be a little easier to make an error. The difference between the two is that I like the feel of the detents better on the Manfrotto stuff.</p>

<p>But....</p>

<p>If you're just experimenting for now, and *if* your camera's tripod mount is in line with the centerline of the camera, you could experiment cheaply by purchasin a Bogen slider bar, level out your tripod, and mount the slider bar. Mount the camera to the slider bar, adjust so that the lens nodal point is over the vertical rotation axis of the existing tripod head, and just rotate an appropriate amount between shots. An appropriate amount would be about 30% overlap on each shot.</p>

<p>Yes, that method works well, esp. if you'd rather experiment w/o spending hundreds of dollars just to tinker. I *think* I've got a 360-degree pano of Waterville, Ohio; in my P'net portfolio, and it was done exactly as I have described above.</p>

<p>Ah, here's the 360d shot:</p>

<p><a href="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9864454-lg.jpg">http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9864454-lg.jpg</a></p>

<p>You don't need precise angles when panning, just sufficient overlap for the software to do its job. Leveling is much more important, followed by rotating on the nodal point. Make sure the lens does not zoom, change aperture or change focus either. You can eyeball for landmarks to set the amount of overlap.</p>

<p>Good stitching software looks for details in the overlap area to match up, rotating the image if necessary (the camera was not leveled precisely). Some allow you to set an irregular border to work around details which have moved between frames.</p>

<p>Edward Ingold has it right. I generally use a Manfrotto head, but I've also done successful stitching from a hand-held series. (This was done standing on a tall ladder, shooting over a 12' fence: <a href="http://GregPetersonPhoto.com/Riverfront.html">http://GregPetersonPhoto.com/Riverfront.html</a> )</p>

<p>If you use a PC, I'd suggest that you download the free "ICE" program from Microsoft. It's as good as, and often better than, stitching programs costing hundreds of dollars.<br>

Get it here: <a href="http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ice/">http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ice/</a></p>

 

<p>If there's no objects in the foreground, you're more likely to have good results from handheld shots. If there are nearby objects in the foreground, tripod and pano head and setting the nodal point properly are more likely to ensure successful stitching.</p>