Tri-X @ Acufine push to 1250

How long should I develop Tri-X pushed to 1250 in Acufine at 68F? How about normally rated? Would it be better (good tone, finer grain) in d-76, d-76 1:1, or acufine for 400iso? for 1250? Thanks, Chris.

Sorry, but I can't inform you of even a "ballpark" figure, but from my own experience, you might wish to try Tri-X with Diafine which will "push" Tri-X to 1250 - 1600. For me it was an exceptional combination for theatre photography with a Leica M-4 using a 35mm and 50mm Summicron lens. I could easily pull an 11 x 14 out of the portion of the negative on a Leitz Valoy enlarger and the grain, edge sharpness, etc. would be very tight and clear.

 

If you wish to have a extremely fine grain with any combination of film and developer, be absolutely certain that the temperatures from start to finish - from the developing to the end of the final rinse is exactly or nearly exactly the same - i.e. within one or two degrees of one another.

 

I am certain that most films have been improved over the last few decades - but by the same token I remain convinced that grain expansion and/or reticulation is still an occurance and/or a possibility since you're exposing "dry" film to a "wet medium". So it is also wise to keep "wet times" to a bare, but needed minimum.

 

The distinctive advantage of using Diafine is that one doesn't have to bother with replenishment since it is a two stage developer. One does have to be careful to make certain that the two chemistries do not "contaminate" one another - i.e. accidentally pour in the "B" solution in the jar containing the "A" solution or vice versa.

 

Another factor, which might make a "slight", but I think a worthwhile difference in your B & W efforts is to do your developing in a 35mm Gepe tank. I am not certain whether they are still manufactured and/or imported into this country, but this tank offered several advantages in comparison with others (1) the space between the reel is greater than with those made with stainless steel - thus allowing a greater flow of the chemicals; (2) it was faster to pour in or pour out the chemistry in the tank; (3) with the aid of a "device" that came with the reels, the film was loaded from the inside to the outside - unlike the reel made by Patterson; and (4) the top of the developing tank was constructed in such a manner that a water hose - 1/2 inch diameter, if I remember correctly - would fit in the "pipe" in the lide - for want of a better word - so that the water flow would be directed to the bottom the developer tank insuring a better and more rapid rinse - thus cutting down your "wet time."

 

Do a search on Ebay under the word "Gepe" and you may find these tanks on sale. I wouldn't part with mine for the world.

 

Hope this is useful.

 

Bill

I fully agree with Diafine for TX @1200~1600, in artificial light (not so good for low contrast scenes).

 

Re washing - well, with my very old Jobo plastic tank I place a thinner hoose from the inner side of the faucet to inside the center pillar and it works wonders!

according to an acufine pub i down loaded from the web.....of which for the life of me i can't find again....but i did print it out ;o)

 

tri-x @ 1000 at 70 degrees F should be developed for 5 minutes........and at 1600 (same rest)...for 10 minutes

 

so your 1250 is smack in the middle..........i'm not saying 7 1/2 minutes would be the recommended, but i might start there.

 

by the way........their recommended agitation is 2 inversions (taking apprx 5 sec total) every 30 seconds........DO NOT over agitate.......their caution.

 

they also make the statement that tri-x at 1000 in acufine is NOT a push.........that it is the correct exposure index and developing time for negatives of normal contrast (gamma .70) and density...

 

i've used it at 1000 and 1600 with excellent results.........although at 1600 i usually develop at 80 degrees F and cut back the time accordingly. As I also agree with the above commentor that grain increases in size the longer you leave the film in the developer