Traveling to Guatemala

Hello, I am traveling in Guatemala from June 20-30 and I am not

quite sure what to expect. I hear the crime rate is pretty bad and

that worries me because I will be carrying and F5 with a couple

Nikon pro lenses (80-200 and 28-70 both f/2.8). I wanted to do a

lot of night photography also, so I know this will be even more

dangerous. Any tips on shooting without getting mugged? Also,

does anyone know if the airport in Guatemala city will allow me

to hand check film? I will have about 40 rolls. Thanks for any

insight and advice. Blaine

I had the same concerns about the security in Guatemala but

never experienced a single problem. Just use that 'gut feeling'

instinct all the time. I found the colorful villages of the highlands

to feel quite safe and relaxed. The people are so friendly, you will

soon forget the crime issue and get carried away with your

shooting. Bigger cities, of course, you need to exercise a little

more caution. In Antigua, you will feel quite safe around the main

square. I took some twilight shots of the cathedrals, etc and

never had a problem. Stay out of the cemeteries; they are

beautiful and very tempting, but there have been too many

reports of muggings there (esp Antigua).

Regarding the airport x-rays, if I remember correctly, they

hand-check my film, but I think that's up to the person at the gate.

Lately, I've just been putting my film through, it's not going to hurt

it, unless it's been X-rayed multiple times (probably > 5 times or

maybe even more).

It's tough to look inconspicuous, I know, especially with all that

expensive gear, but it's a chance you have to be willing to take.

Be aware of your surroundings at all times. I find I'm always

"sizing-up" the people approching me, behind me, etc.

I spotted a shady looking character eyeing me and my gear once

in Guanajuato, Mexico, so I ducked into a nearby bakery, and

watched him through the window. He eventually left and I

bee-lined it back to my hotel! Had I not noticed him, I'm certain he

would have made a move.

You can't hide that flashy equipment, but you can a least dress

down and keep you gear out of sight when not using it.

If you want any travel specifics, or recommendations, e-mail me.

Have a great trip, I'm envious!

Steve

Rural guatemala is relatively safe. As with any country, serious crime (e.g. muggins, rape, etc) thrives only on big cities. Guatemala city is not really dangerous but you better stay out of the shanty town and find out from locals or guidebooks if certain parts of the city are particularly seedy at night.

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Standard precautions such as not flashing wads of money, not strolling around with valuables, not drawing too much attention to yourself, etc are common sense. A camera-holding tourist will not turn villagers into criminals at first sight. On the other hand, I would avoid looking like a camera holding tourist or camera holding anything, at least not all the time. Have a camera bag that doesn't LOOK like a camera bag (camera bags indicate plenty of expensive contents) and keep your stuff in there except when shooting. I would also advise in favor of a money belt.

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There are some specific danger spots. A lonely planet guidebook should be able to tell you, and asking other tourists and locals (truck drivers and restaurant owners usually know everything) should keep you up to date.

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1355684">Volcan Pacaya</a> provides some excellent photographic opportunities and is well worth the trek. But only go there as part of an organized tour with police escort. There have been cases of bandits attacking/mugging solitary trekkers in the past and now it's forbidden to go there alone.

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The beaches and peripheral road around Lago de Atitlan is also best avoided at night. Or so I've heard.

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Use common sense. If you come from a western country your everyday life has more exposure to crime risks than in Guatemala. Take care abroad, as you would at home.

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Remember that just because you're rich and they're poor doesn't mean they're out to get you. You'll find that Guatemalans are very pleasant, hospitable and helpful, as long as you behave like a guest and not as an invader. (which is unfortunately what many tourists do)

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If you want, check out <a href="http://www.xerolas.com/photography/guatemala/">my photos from Guate</a>

Thank you for posting this and for the info also. I'm making my first trip to Guatemala in January 04. I am going with my father in law who is from there, so he will act as my guide.

I'm taking one digital SLR with me however I am going to a local import store and buying a mexican imported backback... something that looks like junk and then keep my camera in there.

I have been warned to stay out of town at night. People drive without lights, run people off the road, are drunk (just like any big city) but (I've been told) the roads there are not maintained like in the USA and driving at night can be hazordous.

Thanks again for posting this question and for all the great information.

Jason Hudson

hudsonphotos.com

I'm not sure you really need to ground yourself to your hotel at night, at least as long as you avoid any particularly seedy areas.

About driving at night, what you have been told is true. Just don't even think about it. I've done two long road trips in southern Mexico and Guatemala, and unless things have changed dramatically in the past couple of years, it is pure madness to drive after dusk. The roads are full of surprises, potholes, topes (bumps in spanish), bikers with no lights, animals or whatever you may think. (I even had the delight of finding a railway crossing with absolutely no identifiable marking - it was hard enough to see in midday!)

The one time I did not heed the advice of the rental agency and decided to push on for another 100km to get to the next town, even as night was falling, I can honestly tell you I regretted it. I was lucky to end up only tired and scared. I could have easily ended up in hospital.

I just returned from a two week assignment in Guatemala last week.

Regarding safety, Guatemala in general is no more dangerous than any other place. Just use the same amount of common sense that you would otherwise. You will definitely be noticed with such a large camera as an F5 with your pro 2.8 lenses. You really don't need such a powerful weapon with travel photography. You would be much better served with a smaller body and a few primes, but that's a seperate topic of discussion. Just be smart, and be aware of your surroundings. The biggest mistake would be to be so afraid that you don't interact with the locals. It was so funny watching the tourist groups get off the bus in Chichi and spent the next few hours avoiding all contact with locals and running scared back to the bus.

If you have any specific questions regarding specific areas, I traveled through Antigua, Panajachel, Lago de Santiago, Solola, Chichicastenango, as well as the northern Highlands near Coatepeque. In some many of the villages surrounding Lago de Atitlan, armed escorts are recommended for volcano hikes, but these are provided by many of the larger hotels. These areas were the scene of many of the guerrilla activites during the civil war and the locals are still very wary of strangers. Again, common sense is the rule.

I did some night street work in Antigua and Panajachel without worry, but the smaller isolated villages get a little dicier at night.

Finally, be especially sensitive when trying to photograph people. Guatemalan's in general, most especially in the less touristy villages, do not like or want their picture taken. Always ask beforehand, and respect people's wishes when they decline. Most people you ask will decline to be photographed. Children are an especially sensitive subject due the country's history kidnappings for foreign adoption.

The airport personnel willingly provided hand inspections of my film at both the main x-ray screening area, and the second screen at the gate. However, security policy may change as threat risks do.

I am happy to answer any other specific questions you may have.

I will also what echo what Steven said . . .

The Guatemalan people are some of the friendliest, warmest people, that I have encountered in my travels. Sit down and talk with them, eat the local food, ask questions. Many of the older residents are happy to discuss history and the changes Guatemala has seen. Another thing that struck is that, no matter what their economic circumstances, they all find the time to greet you with a "Buenos Dias" on the street.