Toying of the Idea of a Olympus E-P2 as a Dedicated telephoto body

<p>In my Quest for the next Camera kit I'm going to buy into the idea of a body dedicated to long telephoto use keeps coming up.<br>

I would buy a full frame DSLR for use with lenses from 17- 200mm and then thinking about a EP-2 with it's IBIS to make use of my Canon FD telephotos I have a 100mm f2.0 135mm f2.0 200mm f2.8 IF 400mm f4.5 and 500mm f4.5L that would all be awesome with the addition of IS. Since none of the Options with other bodies would give me this advantage.</p>

<p>YES I KNOW ABOUT THE CROP FACTOR and would in fact find this the #2 reason for going with a EP-2 to have a 16X that only uses the sweet spot on my 400mm f4.5 nFD and is the size of the 400mm. And I can't tell you how cool having a Birding lens like my 500mm f4.5L S.S.C. without having to have a 2X-A screwed on the back but instead to be using only the sweet spot in the center of the lens.</p>

<p>Not to mention my 200mm f2.8 internal focus on this body.<br>

And yes I am used to working with 16X and 20X lenses and have the technique and support for optics of that ilk having shot that way for years with my Canon FD cameras. Only this time I won't be at f9.0 I'll be two stops faster and I won't be stuck with 400ASA Slide film I will be able to gain a couple stops with the IBIS and be able to ramp the ISO up to 800 gaining another Stop.<br>

Just trying to decide if spending the money on this body is the way to go.<br>

Ah the never ending dilemma "What to buy"</p>

<p>Think about how you are going to hold on to the camera even if you always use a tripod. I think the Panasonic G series would probably work better. </p>

<p>How can the G series work better when it has NO in BODY Image Stablization. The Panasonic uses in LENS stablization. And when you have a 400mm lens mounted you never carry it by the body you carry it via the lens barrel. I would be using the EVF with the E-P2 so in operation on the tripod I would hold the camera the same as any other. I have also thought about the idea of building a support bracket that would tie a Kirk QR plate type tripod mount with a section that came under the camera body and attached at the tripod hole basically removing the stress on the lens mount. And having a hand grip much like the G-1 or my Canon T-90 has.<br>

Since I spent 14 years as a Custom Knifemaker fabricating something up like that from 6061 aluminum and some nice diamond plate rubber on the grip would be a fun weekend project for me during the winter when I don't work.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Many photographers including the camera manufacturers will advise you to turn off VR/IS when on a tripod. </p>

<p>I understand that when the camera is mounted to a tripod and would not be subject the the minor flucuations that IS will correct for turning the IS off it best. BUT on the end of a 2 foot long lens with the lens mounted to the tripod the camera itself is still very much subject to shake. And since the IBIS would be compensating for the bodies movement I see no reason why it would need to be switched off.</p>

<p>Maybe is some one with actual experiance mounting this body on a 400 or 500 mm lens can tell us there exeriance it would be helpful.</p>

<p>Mark, I have the FD 400mm F4.5 and an EP-2. I tried, after I saw your post, to get some images that showed the difference between IS on and off mounted on a tripod but there is nothing much to see. What I will say is the the reach is everything you suspect but managing the set-up is a trial. Wide open the DOF is paper thin as you might suspect. Using the zoom i.e. "enlarged display function" in the camera helps to focus a lot. The lens I have has a tripod ring mount on it and you can see movement when touching the lens.</p>

<p>Thank Jon nothing better then first hand info. <br>

It is possible that if the IBIS is not an advantage when working on a tripod that I might go a different direction then dealing with the personality of the E-P2 (no flash and viewfinder at the same time, the viewfinder being a plug in (though the 90 degree rotation I find to be a big plus).<br>

I'm not in any hurry so by the time I jump this Shark I might be looking at an E-P3 or G-3 or NX-12 as an option for an adaptable body.<br>

I learned many many years ago that free research is the path to saving money.<br>

When I bought my first Digital camera I did a Huge amount of research and ended up buying a Canon G3 cost nearly $450.00 with the extra battery and memory card. BUT since 2004 that shutters been tripped nearly 20,000 times and that one Sandisk 256 memory card has held them all. And the camera is still taking grand daughter photos ever week by my wife. A little road worn a little harder to see the screen. And the flash has flashed so many times the lens is frosted. but it keeps working.<br>

I plan to put the same effort into chosing the digital Bodies I buy next.</p>

<p>After I get my GH1, I bought adapters for Nikon and OM lenses and got all excited by the possibility that I can use all the wonderful MF lenses that are so cheap. However when my subject moves, I quickly learn the limitation of MF. The Zuiko OM 50/1.4 also seems to flare easily ... At the end, I use the face tracking or AF tracking coupled with the 14-140 kit lens and get many good results. AF is invented for a good reason and after spending nearly $1000 and then go back in time to MF just does not make any sense. When the 100-300mm Panny lens is to come out at the end of the year, you may want to see how well it performs. If it is a good lens, it will give you many more in focus and steady shots than using the MF lenses.</p>