To sync or not 2 synch?!?

<p>8mm projector ?? for online inquiries! 3-30-15<br>

<br />Hello!<br>

I am trying to dump both 8mm & super 8 to my computer via a telesync box <br />and a sony hi8 camcorder with a capture unit (aren't we all:) I knew I would <br />run into a frame rate problem before I started, so my projector does not have <br />any type of speed control whatsoever. I am under the assumption after <br />reading various posts, that most film in this category run on average @ 18fps, <br />yet camcorder and/or capture unit grabs it at 24fps? I have seen other <br />brands online that have either a switch to toggle between 18-24 or a variable <br />speed control, but I haven't seen what that control tops out at. One was 14- <br />22fps, which is close, but it makes sense ( I could be wrong ) that if it was 24 <br />(or 23.97fps) that would eliminate the "strobe" or "flicker" effect. I have/use <br />anything from a simple Nero program, to Vegas &/or Premiere to edit in post, <br />but with what I have now, it looks better just playing it on the projection <br />screen.<br>

Do you have any suggestions or products that can fill this request without <br />spending $1500-$3000 on a machine that has a camera and dvd burner <br />already built in?<br>

I've seen everything from shooting it on a screen/wall/piece of paper to <br />making a lens out of a webcam (which looks very in depth) and was just <br />wanting to get thoughts on both process and products.<br>

Thank you in advance for your assistance, and moreso for such an <br />informatiable site!<br>

Sincerely,<br>

Dave</p>

<p>8mm and Super 8 movie film can run at 16 fps (standard silent speed for 8mm) 18 fps (either silent or sound in Super 8) or 24 fps (usually sound).<br /><br />Standard definition video (which your Hi-8 camera is) runs at 30 fps (actually 29.97).<br /><br />A "telecine" movie projector made for film to video transfer has five shutter blades, which interrupts the picture that many times per second, so at 24 fps it throws 120 images per second onto the screen (24x5=120). 120 can be divided evenly by 30, so you get flicker-free video. There are more complicated systems but this is the basic way film to video transfers were done for years.<br /><br />A regular home movie projector has three shutter blades, so you can't get a flicker-free transfer at 16, 18 or 24 fps because none of the resulting numbers divideds by 30. But if you have a projector with a variable speed control and adjust it to 20 fps, you get 60 images a second, which does divide so you can get a flicker-free transfer. This will generally work OK for silent footage shot at 16 or 18 -- it will speed up the picture about 25 percent from 16 but less so from 18. If your film was shot at 24 fps it is most likely sound and slowing it down would be noticeable in the sound.<br /><br />I've done many transfers with a regular projector at 20 fps and the results look fine, certainly good enough for home movie purposes. 8mm/super 8 projectors are pretty much being given away today, so you just need to find one with a variable speed control and you'll be in business.<br /><br />I'm sure there are more advanced ways to deal with the flicker once you get the images into the computer, and there are expensive transfer units meant for professional use and priced accordingly. But this has worked well for me.</p>