tips for wedding photography

<p>hi<br>

i am a beginner in this field..i want some tips for wedding photography and plz tell me which lense is better for this...i have canon 1000d camera and lenses are18-55 and 75-300....what equipment is required.<br>

thanx</p>

<p>Muhammed, I don't do weddings, but I think I know how some will shortly respond to your post. What I would do is use the Photo.net SEARCH box in the upper right hand corner of this page and start looking up old threads that cover this exact kind of question. That's what I have done with my many, many questions and I have learned a whole lot that way--it's a really great tool. Good luck and don't get discouraged by what some may say. Wedding photography is not easy, but if you really have the patience and the passion, then I say go for it. </p>

<p>Let me give you a few quick tips: you need a second camera. If you can, a third. Also, spare batteries and memory cards. Always shoot RAW.</p>

<p>You should explore the Wedding and Social Forum here at photo.net as a knowledge resource. That's where wedding photographers go to discuss topics centered on wedding photography - techniques, lighting, equipment, logistics unique to weddings, the product (albums and prints), the business of wedding photography, etc. Lots of good knowledge is shared there. You could hang out and follow along, research past topics, and get your wedding-specific photography questions answered there. It's a good resource.</p>

<p>There are plenty of talended and experienced wedding photographers in the "Wedding & Social" forum that can give you some tips. My advice is to make every picture count ! Pose people whenever possible if you can and keep a sharp eye on the background. This will save you countless dissapointments, aggravations and time in Post Processing. At first, don't try to produce those dreamy, fancy albums you see on other peoples websites. Make a list of "Must-Have" photos after consulting with the Hosts and stick to it. You can get fancy later. Shooting RAW is usually your best bet, but use it wisely. If you can get the shot straight out of the camera using jpeg, then use that. Shooting RAW draws more power from the battery and takes up allot of space on your card and computer, something to think about when shooting high-volume. Allways keep a spare camera, plenty of spare batteries and Flash cards, you can get by with just one camera if you don't mind switching lenses once in a while. Monitor your camera settings judiscioulsly. Wrong camera/flash settings while you are in the heat of passion, can be hazardous to your mental well being. * You only get one chance !</p>

<p>I only shot one wedding, and that one was enough to convince me: unless you are really a pro, don't put yourself in the position of being the main photographer. It's too easy to mess up, and the stakes are high. I suggest that in addition to reading what the pros suggest, go along several times as a second photographer--agree to take pictures, but only if there is a pro that the family is relying on. Then, if you get a few good shots, everyone will be very happy.</p>

<p>I'm not an expert, but I would say at the <strong>minimum</strong>...</p>

<p>Second camera (if something happens to your one and only camera during the wedding, you're screwed.)<br>

extra (fully charged) batteries/memory cards<br>

hot-shoe mounted flash that can pivot (or two, one for each camera)<br>

good fast lens (low f/stop number) for tricky low-light situations (again, maybe two)<br>

experience (assist another photographer as a second shooter a few times)<br>

good contract previewed by a lawyer for your clients to sign</p>

<p>I would say if your question is "what equipment do I need", then you're starting in the wrong place. Equipment is relatively easy, its just money. You can't be a wedding photographer (or at least a decent one) just by buying some gear. I'm only presuming here but I would say you need more experience, practice and reading & learning before worrying about your equipment - the only reason I'm saying this is your existing equipment is all "beginner" level and none of it is really suitable.</p>

<p>I was asked to be the photographer for my brother-inlaws videography business - weddings and other stuff (home shows, boat shows, etc.). I told him straight out no. I would be a SECOND shooter or assistant to the primary but weddings were too important to screw up. That and I needed about $10,000 worth of equipment - my D90 and at the time I only had kit lenses wouldn't cut it. I told him 2 D300s' (or D3's would be even better), a bunch of f/2.8 lenses (14-24, 24-70 and 70-200) and a couple primes at f/1.4, 2 or more SB-800's and light stands and modifiers, just to start. Even then I didn't want to take the responsibility of a wedding (I'd glady shoot a home show when I have all the time I need to set up shots). If you're really interested in doing this, see if you can get some experience with a professional as his/her assistant or second shooter.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>i want some tips for wedding photography and plz tell me <strong>which lense is better for this</strong>...i have canon <strong>1000d camera</strong> and lenses <strong>are18-55 and 75-300</strong>....<strong>what equipment is required.</strong><br />thanx</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Although one would be able to Photograph some Weddings with the 1000D and the 18 to 55 lens, this equipment is NOT suitable as a Wedding Kit.</p>

<p>Neither lens is suitable.</p>

<p>You need at least one other camera body – I would require two more.<br>

You will likely need TWO Flash units – I would require three.<br>

A fast zoom standard lens such as EF-S17 to 55/2.8IS USM<br>

A fast telephoto lens, such as the EF85/1.8<br>

Perhaps a Fast Normal lens as the EF35/1.4<br>

This would be a basic kit of Cameras and Lenses: you could rent other lenses as required,<br>

Note you will need other gear such as: memory-cards, tripod, reflectors, kit bag . . . etc</p>

<p>Read all the threads here: <a href="../learn/wedding/">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/</a></p>

<p>Follow the threads and ask questions here: <a href="../wedding-photography-forum/">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/</a></p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>@ Dan M I only shot one wedding, and that one was enough to convince me: unless you are really a pro, don't put yourself in the position of being the main photographer. It's too easy to mess up, and the stakes are high.<br />I second this response. I shot two weddings and both were payed. I was the main photographer and the weddings were quite small no more then 75 persons, but even though I had fun time doing it and the couples were happy with the pictures I would not do it again. It takes a lot of practice to be a pro wedding potographer. I much prefer to shoot small famlies portrait on location than shoot another wedding. Gear is one thing knowledge is another. If you still with to do it I wish you all the best.<br />As others suggested see if you can second shoot along the side of a pro photographer untill you get some experience even if it means shooting for free. Than invest in good gear pro level DSLR and fast lenses as well as tons of memory cards and batteries and flash(es)</p>

<p>But if you are going to do it anyway:</p>

<p>1. Have some kind of back up, even if it is a point and shoot.</p>

<p>2. Get an external flash and plenty of AAs. Eneloops are good. 430EX is good.</p>

<p>3. Use Program. If you try to learn anything technical, learn how to compensate the flash and ambient metering (2 different systems). Read your camera manual and flash manual.</p>

<p>4. Do not use aperture priority. Inside and in lower light, it will set too slow a shutter speed.</p>

<p>5. Use One Shot focusing, NOT AI Focus or AI Servo.</p>

<p>6. Use ISO 100 outside in bright light, ISO 200 or 400 in shadier, outside light, and ISO 800 inside.</p>

<p>7. Bring and use a tripod if the ceremony is indoors and you can't use flash (check with the officiant for church rules).</p>

<p>I'm surprised that nobody has suggested to take some photography lessons first.<br>

Having a right camera and lenzes and knowing how to press a botton in the "A" mode is not going to turn anybody into a good photographer. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'm surprised that nobody has suggested to take some photography lessons first.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree that having the right lenses and camera is not going to turn anyone in to a great photographer; but doing photography lessons is not going to necessarily make a good Wedding Photographer either.<br>

I am not saying that Photography Lessons are a bad idea - thye might be a very good idea if the OP has little Photographic Knowledege and Skill. </p>

<p>But, I am not surprised that photography lessons have not been suggested.<br>

Moreover, I would not necessarily assume that doing Photography Lessons best addresses the OP's question.<br>

The question is firstly about equipment ans secondly about tips for shooting weddings.<br>

Nowhere in the post does the OP mention a lack of photographic knowledge or skills.<br>

He lists the gear and states he is “a beginner in this field” (of Wedding Photography).<br>

Although it could be that by posting in the Beginners' Forum indeed the OP is new to Photography generally - but we do not know.<br>

If one is to suggest "lessons" it would also good to suggest an Apprenticeship or Mentor arrangement with a competent and experience Professional Wedding Photographer or Studio as well as or instead of "lessons".</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

<p>I completely agree with Yana.<br>

If you have to ask these types of questions, you should not try to undertake a job such as wedding photography. Instead you should focus on learning.</p>

<p>Shooting a wedding is necessarily difficult from a technical point of view (although it does have some challenges), but you only get one chance. One messed up shot can ruin it all.</p>

<p>Then there is the question of equipment. You just don't have what it takes.<br>

As the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM, you need:<br>

2 good camera bodies. Going in there with only one is just plain irresponsible.<br>

2 good flash units.<br>

A handful of good lenses. Which ones will depend on your style, camera (crop factor), venue and other factors. But they need to be fast, and as a general rule (with some exceptions) L-glass is the way to go.<br>

More batteries and flash cards than you could possibly use.</p>

<p>You may also need:<br>

Tripod.<br>

Additional lighting for the couple's private photo session. <br>

A medium format film camera. I know not everyone agrees with this and I'm not trying to start the "film vs. digital" debate. But I firmly believe that this can be a very nice addition to any wedding shoot, for those special shots. It has some unique qualities and is still widely used for these sorts of things.</p>

<p>Most of all you need knowledge and experience. <br>

"Program mode" should not even be in your vocabulary. Know your equipment and how to get the most out of it. This goes for everything from camera bodies and lenses, to flash units and filters.</p>

<p>Program Mode offers many leverages when shooting under the pressure of time. <br>

Program mode is used on occasion by many Experienced Professional Wedding Photographers, I am one.<br>

Program Mode is also a Mode which is the safest in many situations throughout the day, at a Wedding Coverage, especially for Photographers who do not have much Wedding Photography experience.<br>

There are many folk who don't understand how Program Mode and Program Shift work: and especially do not understand how Program mode interacts and directs Dedicated Flash units.<br>

<br>

It is bad advice to suggest that Program Mode be removed from a Wedding Photographers vocabulary - especially if the gear being used is Canon.<br>

<br>

WW <br>

</p>

<p>@ WW:<br>

I really couldn't disagree more. <br>

That you and others use it, doesn't make it a good idea.<br>

Program mode is and will always be a compromise. True, it is the "safe" choice. But it is not the best choice. Pretty much like training wheels on a bicycle. you won't fall on your arse quite as often, but you will never realize the bicycles full potential.</p>

<p>Time pressure is a lousy excuse. If you know your trade, you should also know how to make adjustments on the fly. It takes next to no time, to adjust camera settings and for the most part, you don't even need to take your eye away from the viewfinder.</p>

<p>The fact that they insist on keeping that feature on the 1's is actually the only thing I hate about Canon.<br>

A carpenter wouldn't let his hammer do his thinking for him. Why should we?</p>

<p><strong>"P AE" Mode</strong> is no more "a compromise" than <strong>Tv Mode</strong> or <strong>Av mode</strong>.<br>

A statement such as this is an indication of ignorance of the functionality of the P-AE mode.</p>

<p>Moreover the fact that one Poster (with Wedding Experience?) on an internet forum declares that they do not choose to use Program Mode and complains Canon doesn’t remove P-AE mode from their 1 Series cameras -<br>

DOES NOT make the aforementioned advice "good advice.”</p>

<p>It is interesting to include statements such as:<br>

“Time pressure is a lousy excuse. <em>If <strong>you know your trade</strong>, you should also know how to make adjustments on the fly.</em>”<br>

One may assume these quips are meant to discredit or inflame others – or to get the “advice” question off the table.</p>

<p>On the other hand, many experienced Photographers, Long-time Contributors and readers of these Photo.net Forums are eagerly awaiting a response to the questions posed by Ken Papai here: <a href="../canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00YFFP">http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00YFFP</a></p>

<p>i.e.:</p>

<p><em>"Morten" L : nice portfolio, website, et al...</em><br>

<em>For someone so critical and new.... geesh! Chill out man. ;-)”</em></p>

<p><em>“</em><em>Morten -- please describe your history of use with Canon EOS DSLRs.<br />Please attach a photo you might have taken with one as well. Your bio lists none.</em><br>

<em>Gracias amigo! (and to all the other high photog powers-that-be)”</em></p>

<p>WW</p>

 

<p>"Program mode is used on occasion by many Experienced Professional Wedding Photographers, I am one."</p>

<p>Program Mode is fine if you are not shooting flash. I screwed up a wedding once by keeping my camera in 'P' mode all the time. About 50% of my shots came out blurried. Luckilly I was just the back-up photography.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>One may assume these quips are meant to discredit or inflame others – or to get the “advice” question off the table.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Assume what you will. My intention was not to discredit you or anyone else. I have absolutely nothing to gain from that.</p>

<p>You are free to do whatever you want, but no matter how much you glorify and praise it, letting your tools think for you, will never give you the best possible result. That will give you the shot the camera wants. Not the shot YOU want.</p>

<p>As for your comment about the other thread. I stopped reading that, after I posted my last comment, in which I made it clear that I had given up on the topic. <br>

Since I have no intention of re-reading that mess of a thread to find one specific comment, I obviously can't be sure if what you quoted is taken out of context. Either way, I don't see any question there. Just a meaningless request, that one can reasonably assume (as you did with my former post) is a childish attempt at discrediting me.<br>

The main difference is that I couldn't care less. </p>

<p>Harry, I'm curious what happened with your shots. Was this on a canon system? In P mode with flash, the canons I know of will expose for the subject, and will not go below 1/60th - depending on focal length this shouldn't give you 50% blurred shots. The background may turn out very dark/black. Av/Tv modes on the other hand will go all the way out to 30 seconds to let in ambient light to balance with the flash.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"letting your tools think for you, will never give you the best possible result. That will give you the shot the camera wants. Not the shot YOU want."</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yet again this comment shows total ignorance of P-AE mode and its functionality.</p>

<p>When using a Canon DSLR in P mode, the photographer has complete control of the three exposure parameters - equally as if using Tv Mode or Av mode or M Mode.</p>

<p>There is no rationale nor logic to your point of view whatsoever:<br>

P-AE mode (in canon with Program shift), is no more the camera "doing the thinking" than when using Tv or Av or M it is just the knobs and dials might be in a different place and the fist indication of exposure is premised upon different criteria – which sometimes gives leverage or better suits a shooting scenario.</p>

<p>This talk of “the camera doing the thinking” and “not getting the shot YOU want” is just poppy-cock.</p>

<p><strong><em>Read the manual – it will tell you how P-AE and Program Shift work – quite similar to TV and Av.</em></strong></p>

<p><strong><em>If not: then quote from the manual where the camera “does the thinking” and where “P mode does not allow the Photographer control over ALL the three parameter of exposure” to get the shot YOU want.</em></strong><br>

<strong><em> </em></strong><br>

And even though you do not care less: maybe hang around long enough on this thread, to answer these questions posed to you.</p>

<p>WW</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I suggested using Program mode above, because I have a feeling Muhammad is going to start out photographing a friend's or family member's wedding, as is quite common. If this is the case, Program mode is quite useful for someone in Muhammad's position. Of course, it is an automated mode, so no, you aren't calling the shots, but Program mode will definitely save a beginner 'from him or herself', particularly with Canon cameras. Program mode will probably allow up to an 80% success rate, as far as allowing a beginner to get 'decent photos'.</p>

<p>Of course I agree that he should learn and get experience--preferably by assisting, in a safe environment. But assisting positions are quite difficult to come by these days, and if you can't get experience assisting, you gotta get experience somehow, and many beginners and newcomers jump right in there--rightly or wrongly. I was saying, if you are going to do it anyway, here is the safest way, with Canon cameras.</p>

<p>Harry--I also question whether you didn't confuse Program mode with using AV mode. The latter will definitely get you in trouble with Canon cameras and flash. Program mode generally sets 1/60th or 1/125th, with a wide-ish aperture like f4, if you are indoors and have the flash on.</p>

<p>Program mode is an automated mode, yes. <br>

But the photographer can still call the shots - just as is if he were using Av or Tv Mode - this is the point I am stressing in regard to the comment to remove P mode from the vocabulary – and IMO this is a very important point to the OP and to any beginner.<br>

I understand that a novice might NOT want to call the shots and might NOT use Program Shift to override the Program Mode Selection.<br>

And I understand that the original suggestion to use P mode for the OP, was to make a best success rate if the OP is unsure.<br>

But these facts should hide the fact that whilst P is an automated mode - the <strong>Photographer still has control just as in Tv or Av Modes</strong> – and the OP and every beginner should be aware of that also,<br>

This is just as important as explaining to beginners that the Camera's Av or Tv Automated Exposure Selection can be (and should be, when necessary) overridden.</p>

<p>WW <br>

</p>