Thinking of getting a flash (or a basic strobist kit)

<p>I've never really used any artificial light source, beyond an on camera or built in flash, occasionally bounced off a wall or ceiling. I'm not entirely sure what I would want to light, but it's a skill I'd like to learn.<br /><br />I'm working with two systems - Pentax and I see 2nd hand Pentax flashes in the classifieds and other places from time to time and, as of last week, Fuji X, which I bought as a small 2nd camera and is really impressing me. As I see it, this is an argument for a manual flash and the start of a small strobist kit.<br /><br />Are there any dos and don'ts in this regard?</p>

<p>I have Pentax Fuji and another brand. I suggest digging out Lex answers in the threads I started over at the MILC forum.<br>

If you are using Pentax DSLRs I suggest getting an old SCA flash with Pentax AF film body foot, since you can't trigger optical slaves with a built in or P-TTL flash because these are pre-flashing. Its basically the previous SCA adapter that doesn't allow TTL flashing with PTTL DSLRs and also doesn't force an aperture setting on your lenses if they are on "A", but it adds space for 4 AAAs and a red focus assist pattern beam, that sometimes finally stops your AF from hunting. - At least I like it more than the srtroboscopic AF Assist from the built in flashes. <br>

AFAIK such a thing (AF asist) does not exist for Fuji, although it would be needed more badly.<br>

Pretty nice to have with the strobist approach to flashing is an option to dial your flashes down manually - it usually comes in half and quarter power setting. Sometimes I even liked "winder" settings which cut the output drastically - nice to have to add some fill into tabletop shots at close distance. I shopped for a few mid sized used flashes that provide manual dial down option.<br>

The (semi) current Pentax AF-360FGZ is, besides the lack of a spinning reflector an impressingly nice and versatile unit. - I wouldn't pay 300 Euro for sigle new ones but was lucky to get two used ones each below 100 Euro at my local store. I assume the lack of swivel can be compensated with wireless TTL control via built in flash. - At least I did manage to do portraits that way.<br>

For manual use on other systems they offer power dial down to 1/32 and a full set of auto apertures - f2 to 22 at 100 ISO which becomes f8 at 1600 ISO. The user interface takes a moment to get into but appears bearable to me. - I somehow love the all mechanical dials on a Metz 60 more...<br>

Biggestr flaw of the 360 FGZs: their battery compartmen: they put a lot of pressure on the 4 AAs to make sure there is contact... unfortunately the lid isn't entirely up to that. be careful to press it in when you slide it shut or open and make sure the tiny plastic noses reach their goal at the other wall ofterwise you might ruin them and end keeping your flash together with rubberbands or tiny vices like I am doing on one of mine.<br>

Bottom line: I think its OK to get used ones. - I haven't dabbled enough with wireless TTL to call it the salt of the earth or such but it seems nice to have sometimes.<br>

Metz seemed making strong PTTL flashes, claimed to be fully compatible too. - Given a chance you should maybe look at these, while you can still get some, since Metz declared insolvence recently.<br>

Old flashes, caveats: sync voltage! - The SCA stuff is usually safe, so I go for that... even if it means putting a PC to hotshoe adapter on old Mamiyas & Leicas, to keep the Pentax SCA adapters I have mounted.<br>

very old flashes & strobes want to get triggered via optical slaves. The Metz one is highly sensitive so I put that one on my main light and fishier ones to fills.<br>

To pull off the Strobist approach I would try to get hold of a few weak simple units too. They are usually cheaper than the cable or slave sensor to trigger them. Their recharge time is slow calculate some 7 seconds between shots. If you need more rapid sequences dial bigger flashes which have autothyristor feature (something that keeps unused energy in their capacitor, quite common for 35 years now) down.<br>

Other caveat: proprietary batteries. Metz 60s came with a dryfit PB one - 6V replacement is easy to find and adapt. - Braun flashes had 8V - I would try to mount a 7 sub-C cells pack from the RC model sports scene. A box full of AAs might suffer from slightly too high internal resistance but could work for a couple of pops - 50 per charge? more?<br>

When you are hunting for used gear keep in mind that we need less light than our anchestors, who probaly shot Kodachrome 25 for stunning results. (Imagine a anscient full power only Metz with GN 60m (ISO 100) combined with a rangefinder. - still GN30 at ISO 25, but OK for family pictures) - GN 90m at Pentax' basic ISO would be way too much and shouting for ND filters. - So options to dial your flashes down seem rather essential nowadays.<br>

Whatever you buy: don't overspend or expect too much. - 30+ year old flashes aren't likely to last forever.<br>

Also try to read at least a few manuals; it seems possible to overheat flashguns with rapid fire.<br>

Strobist approach is trial and error condensing into experience and predictability... I did take bearable digital pictures with old flashes set to their auto modes. They'd have been too strong for anything else. But I guess you have more control over your setup in all manual.<br>

Not sure what to write about flash brands. - My own collection is random, I grabbed what I could get... A used old pentax AF280 T broke down after a while. My Metz 60 is hopefully still going strong after 28 years, (it had 2 repairs for mechanical abuse reasons) and the rest hasn't seen enough use by myself to bash it. - My very first flash was a multidedicated Hanimex and a huge dissapointment, but I hope all of them died in between and you won't stumble across one. Metz 45 Flashguns suffer a wee bit from battery issues. - it seems the proprietary NiCd pack had an extra cell compared to the AAs holder. The flash offers less manual control that the 60 but was very popular in the 80s.<br>

If you are mechanical inclined search fleamarkets for white umbrellas with tiny logos silcscreened on or buy them from a advertisment gifts supplier unprinted for little money. - try to grab too many, since they might get dirty.... but anyhow they are nice to have for experimetal flashing Light stands & such: I like the expanding pillars made for DIY folks to assist screwing wood on the ceiling - its harder to run these over than a huge (feet wise) dedicated light stand. unfortunately that stuff wasn't meant to be carried on motorbikes. maybe get a few light ridiculous tripods too to place them on furniture. it doesn't take much to support just a flash. Take the time to cobble adapter clamps together if you are planning to use broomstick based makeshift lighht stands.<br>

Oh and probably important: don't cheap out on batteries & chargers. get one charger that can measure batteries remaining capacity and a felt marker to mark bad ones.<br>

I do like Sanyo eneloop for occasionally used gear and have been a long term Sanyo fan. But recharging a lot of ordinary NiMhs before you go shooting takes too much discipline for my taste.<br>

If you have primes for your Fuji, it might work out. The consumer kit zoom is too slow for my needs anywhere darker than a well lit office.</p>

<p>Regarding "don'ts", it's hard to know exactly where you are in this process -- are you familiar with the difference between flash modes: Manual / Auto / TTL / P-TTL ? Understanding these will help you know what will work and with what limitations.</p>

<p>As an alternative to a manual/non-TTL flash for triggering optical slaves (or for wiring up off-camera flash with longer sync cables), you can also go for radio triggers. Some of these are inexpensive, though (as with generic optical triggering) the flash is full manual. If you're triggering the flashgun with a radio trigger, you really don't care much about the brand of flash unit, you just want the flash to have some manual control so you can reduce power as desired. <br>

This said, if you had a Pentax P-TTL compatible flash that includes both manual and P-TTL modes, you could use the manual mode when off-camera or mounted on the Fuji, and still optionally have P-TTL automation when shooting on-camera. Same story with a Fuji TTL flash -- if it also offers a manual mode, that could also be pressed into less-automated use when mounted on or triggered by the Pentax.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>DO:<br>

* checkout <a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">strobist - lighting 101</a> if you haven't already. It's an excellent resource and definitely improved my understanding and appreciation for flash photography<br>

* consider buying some PocketWizards (remote flash triggers). You can do some fun stuff with these and help you be more creative in your lighting.You can also buy some crappy cheap flashes and experiment and have fun. (no need to buy expensive flashes with built-in wireless triggers when you have the pocket wizard do the triggering for you).<br>

* Do consider getting some flashes/strobes that have optical triggering (might be cheaper than getting a third pocket wizard)<br>

DON'T:<br>

* rush out to get expensive gear. One stroll through B&H's lighting department and you would think you need to spend a few thousand or tens of thousands of dollars to get started w/ artificial light. I got a good starter kit on ebay for cheap that got me going, w/o breaking the bank. (nice background stand w/ black and white background sheets come in handy when doing a "studio" setup at home; picked those up at a good price on ebay) Pocket Wizards were a bit pricey but very much worth it. <br>

<br />Anyway, some general advice hopefully helpful for you.</p>

 

<p>You should also check out Yongnuo flashes and radio triggers. Their most expensive flash also has an internal transmitter/receiver so a separate trigger is not necessary. the receiver.triggers are not expensive nor is the above-mentioned flash, relative to an AF360 or 540. You have to use the Nikon models, not the Canon models in order to have them work on Pentax. Cowboy also makes inexpensive triggers and they don't seem to me camera specific.<br>

I have only just bought an inexpensive studio setup - bulb holders, umbrellas, light stands, background stand and backgrounds. Buy the better backgrounds - the ones I got are too small and translucent when opened fully.</p>