Taking better indoor photos D90

Hi,

 

I'm a total amateur photographer learning with a new Nikon D90. I took a class to learn all the different functions of a

DSLR. My issue is this. When i take indoor photos, i'm not always happy with the results. I try not to use AUTO

mode with the built in flash because that creates an annoying shadow behind the subjects. I've tried to use A

priority, however, the photos come out blurred. If i use the S mode, the pictures come out black. Manual mode

produces the same black image. I am using a 18-200mm Nikkor VR lens. i've tried setting the ISO to 800, however,

it still doesn't produce a satisfactory image. I also have a 50mm fixed lens.

 

I do have a speedlight SB600 flash but i don't always want to use it, unless it's necessary.

 

What's the best setting to use in such situations? I have a gray card, do i need to set the camera up with the gray

card and then try it? Thanks for any info.

 

Ed

Well, I do not own a D90, I use a D200 most of the time. But I will take a shot at this.

 

I would look to see if your D90 has a bracketing mode and turn it on. And give it a try.

 

Also, If you are in 'S' mode - shutter priority i would set it to 1/60 of a second and give it a try. At 1/60 of a second the image should not appear blurred at all.

 

If you use the 'A' mode - aperture priority - you might want to try the largest aperture possible (the lower the number the better) and this should give you the brightest image possible.

 

If you are using a tripod, then you can drop your shutter speed down significantly (slower) - and take a look at the results.

 

best regards,

 

Ed

First and foremost, read a book like "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Pedersen and practise, practise, practise the principles in it.

 

Second, don't be scared of your flash when the light really isn't good (especially when using your slower zoom) but don't blast it at your subject, rather point it at the ceiling so the light "bounces" down and disperses more - it gives a far more natural effect and is a million times better than direct flash in most circumstances.

Ed,

 

There are many facets to this; and I won't claim to be an expert, but if I have to distill it down, I'd say two

words - bounce flash. Once I learned that, my indoor photos improved dramatically.

I'd also offer two words: "beginning class." :-)

 

I'm not talking about a specific D90 class such as the one you took (at the camera store ?), but rather a class in photography. The local class I took not all that many years ago was the most important $85 I've ever spent on photography. No kidding.

 

In low light without flash, your 50mm, being a "fast lens" with a large maximum aperture (I'm guessing f/1.8) will enable you to get some photos that might be very tough with the zoom, even though the zoom has VR. The 50mm is also very sharp. But you'll still need to understand the relationship between aperture and shutter speed, practice holding the camera and bracing it where possible at slow shutter speeds, etc.

 

And shooting w/out flash, I'd bump the iso higher, to 1600 or even above that (not sure what the max is on your camera or how well it performs at the the max).

 

The suggestion of bouncing the flash is also a good one.

 

All of this -- and even more -- will be covered in a good class. Mine was offered at a local community college down the road. I'd urge you to see what's available in your community.

You don't like the built-in flash? You can learn a lot about off-camera flash here:

 

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

 

Enjoy your new camera!

I'm going to throw something else out here. The Pederson book is a good recommendation, so is taking a beginning

photography course.

 

BUT... The first camera I ever bought was all manual and mechanical. I did this so I would understand how to use exposure.

Now that digital cameras give us instant feedback, setting to M Manual mode is even more useful.

 

Try this, set the camera to M, and just walk around and take pictures, adjusting both your f-stop and shutter speed as you go

to use the meter to get good exposure. Not only will you understand better what those shutter speeds and apertures are doing,

but you will get a good feeling for when to under- or over-expose, too!

 

I confess, I often set my camera to M, just because I remain, for many things, most comfortable with that.

No one has really addressed your problems yet, so I guess it's up to me. Here they are in order:

 

1. "I try not to use AUTO mode with the built in flash because that creates an annoying shadow behind the subjects."

 

It doesn't matter what mode you use. The shadows are caused the same way shadows are always caused--light comes from an angle that throws a shadow where you can see it. The cure is to either have nothing behind the person that will show a shadow (e.g. move away from walls etc.) or use an off camera flash where you can angle the light down. Has nothing to do with auto mode.

 

2. " I've tried to use A priority, however, the photos come out blurred."

 

Most likely you aren't using a fast enough shutter speed. Try to keep your shutter speed at 1/125 or faster if you aren't using a tripod.

 

3. " If i use the S mode, the pictures come out black. Manual mode produces the same black image"

 

Sounds like you don't understand what flash sync is. When you use flash, your shutter speed MUST be slower than 1/200 second. Try setting shutter speed to 1/125 second and see how it does.

 

You're welcome.

 

Kent in SD

One thing I didn't see mentioned in the (good) suggestions above: look at the data for the photos that you have taken. It's a nice advantage of digital that all of your exposure data is encoded with the images. Many viewers (Nikon View, Picasa among others) will show you the exposure details as you view your images. You can compare the ones that 'worked' with the ones that did not and use that to assist your learning.

I don't think flash sync is the issue, as described by the OP. I think it's just classic underexposure, due to insufficient light. Raising the ISO will get into the ballpark, but I doubt even 1600 is going to get the 18-200 enough light at portrait lengths. Using the 50mm lens indoors, at full auto (Auto or P mode, with Auto ISO enabled), will probably produce more keepers _right now_, and I have to agree that a class about Photography, and not equipment, is the next best step. Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" is also _highly_ recommended to get a handle on the Aperture/Shutter/ISO relationship.

These forums are awesome! Thanks for all the input and help. Looking forward to more!

 

-e