Suggestions on macro lighting

I recently bought a Sigma 50mm f/2.8 macro lens for my OM cameras. I've played with it a bit and I really like it. The

problem I am encountering is that when focusing at 1:2 or closer there is no earthly way I can direct my flash on the

subject and the flash to subject distance is way to close even at 1/16th power. The setup I have attempted is to

move my flash off camera using the flash cord (which is only about 8 inches, so yes I probably need to get a longer

one), using iso100 film, 1/16th power, wide angle setting and placing an index card in front of the flash to diffuse and

reduce the light level some. I figure if the output is still to high when I get the film back I'll just double the index cards

in front of the flash.

 

I've yet to get the film back from the sample shots I attempted (picking it up tonight). I was wondering if anyone might

have suggestions for me though. This setup doesn't really work with things like flowers, etc, but it seems like it might

be a 'sort of' solution for things like taking pictures of jelwery, hobby trains, etc.

 

My current setup for macro is either my Sigma 50mm f/2.8 (1:1) or my Tamron 35-70/3.5 macro (1:2.8, and not

nearly as sharp as the sigma is for close up work). My lighting is either ambient or my vivitar 285hv.

 

Does anyone have suggestions for other lighting solutions, especially for something rather portable? Any ring flashes

that might work with an Olympus OM camera, something that is not going to rely on TTL or TTL-OTF metering and

can be set to a rather low output for close up work.

 

I don't need a masterful lighting setup, but I am just curious if there is something that would work out better and is

more portable then what I am doing right now.

 

Thanks.

A flash on a remote cord compatable your camera.

 

There is no reason to have a flash attached to a camera top for good lighting anyway.

Are you saying the shot's will be way over exposed?

 

You could get neutral density filters for your lens or diffusion for the flash itself. The problem can be positioning the flash

when you have real close subject distances.

 

One solution is a ringlight for macro that mounts on the lens. I've never used those but I would imagine you can dial the

power down enough when working in close. There are dedicated models that retain full ttl info if you use TTL.

There are many good tips in "Closeups in Nature" by John Shaw. The most basic flash tool is a bracket with swinging arms. One version is called the "George Lepp bracket". Really Right Stuff makes a very good bracket which is more rigid and easier to carry than some others (but expensive).

 

One of John Shaw's tips is to use a plastic salad bowl with a hole for the lens cut into the bottom. You can place this over the subject and shoot the flash through the side. This both attenuates and distributes the light.

 

You are finding why most people recommend using a longer macro lens - at least 100 mm, but the longer the better. At high magnification, a 50mm lens is so close to the subject that it's hard to get light in the right places. It's also nearly impossible to approach any living subject that closely.

I am not sure if the shots will be really over exposed or not. Based on the flash calculator on the flash at 1/16th power, iso100 and f/16 the subject to flash distance should be around 1-1.5ft and I am hoping that using an index card as a diffuser knocked down the light output by about 2-3 stops, that should get me to down to the approximate 6inches of subject to flash distance that flash was actually at.

 

Thanks Edward, I'll take a look at his book and look at the Really right stuff bracket.

 

Lighting doesn't seem to be to much of an issue with flowers, etc, but it certainly is with anything I want to shoot indoors for macro work.

 

I might have to explore just how much an index card knocks down the light levels, it would be nice if I knew say, 2 stops per index card or something like that so I knew I could shot with say 1 for f/16, 2 for f/8, 3 for f/4 or something of the sort. I guess I'll just have to try that out. The salad bowl also sounds like an interesting idea.

I developed a technique for macro photography without a ring flash. I can take pictures as close to the lens as 4-5mm with apertures of f/22-f/32

 

You will need two manual flashes, a cable for sync for main lfash, a optical slave for the second flash. Both flashes mounted in small tripods.

 

The trick to extremely close lightning is to use a ring of aluminum paper (the one you find in kitchens), exactly the size of your lens front. You can tape this paper to a base created with photo paper. Two rings, one of aluminum and one of paper for stability. Put both as a filter. A small hole in the center will provide the image to your camera, but the rest of the ring will serve as a reflector for both flashes. This way you will have front light to your subject.

 

One flash from above, one from the side and below and the reflector on your lens will provide enoucth light to take this kind of pictures:

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=683828

 

I attached a diagram with some views of the system.

 

Do you think this is expensive? It is not. Main flash is a manual flash, the second is a cheap flash. The tripods doesnt need to be manfrottos or anything like that. Less than 150 dollars for all. Not including your camera and lens

 

Sometimes I used diffuser socks in the flashes, but they are not always necesary.

 

Auto exposure is very complicated, so I suggest manual settings for all, flashes and camera.

 

I hope this helps

 

Carlos Rodriguez<div></div>

Carlos, thanks for the suggestions. That's awesome. I'll have to give this setup a try once I can get my hands on an extra flash and tripod. Here was the result of my flash macro pictures. Turns out that an index card drops the light level by way more then 2-3 stops. I either need to bump the power to 1/4 output or use iso400 film if I want to continue using f/16. I also need to position the flash and/or the subjects better to get the light. Of course that still doesn't solve the issue of uneven lighting (it looks like Carlos suggestion would though).<div></div>

The technique I learned was to use folds of white linen handkerchief as a variable diffuser. You'll need to do a series of tests to see how many thicknesses are required - hold them in place with elastic bands. Puffing the layers like a chef's hat rather than lying tightly over the flash lens helps provide softer light. You don't say whether you are using a TTL flash - in which case, once you have sufficient diffusion the camera will be able to meter and cut off the flash appropriately so long as you have a suitable flash to subject distance - use the offshoe cord to help with that and improving your lighting angles. An autoflash is very difficult to use, since the sensor will tend to suffer from parallax and fail to aim at your subject. With a manual flash at 1/16th power and a suitable number of handkerchief layers you will be able to make use of the inverse square law to fine tune lighting levels by adjusting flash to subject distances. A test roll is a good idea - make careful notes about distances and diffuser layers.

 

Carlos' idea of a ring reflector is a good one - it is used by Olympus themselves for their bellows macro lenses (it's known as a Lieberkühn reflector). You can also make use of other reflectors using bits of card (postcard size to A4 depending on the size of your subject) to provide more varied lighting. The OM system has an amazingly comprehensive set of macro tools: if you've not encountered the details, it's worth having a browse here:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/macro/index.htm

The OM system macro flashes:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/flash/macroflash/index.htm