Sandy Vongries Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Putting together an order to restock B&W films. So far, Tri X and XP2. When I restock wine I usually add a pair or two of "tryers" to the case along with favorites. Would like to do the same with films. There are quite a few, familiar films and many not. Any "must try" suggestions? ISO, except at extremes, not an issue, but prefer standard development process. Though cost is not too important, I would be unlikely to regularly use most expensive films. Unless I go all out, I will be scanning, so film with excessive curl is problematic. Suggestions appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photo_galleries Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 (edited) Putting together an order to restock B&W films. So far, Tri X and XP2. When I restock wine I usually add a pair or two of "tryers" to the case along with favorites. Would like to do the same with films. There are quite a few, familiar films and many not. Any "must try" suggestions? ISO, except at extremes, not an issue, but prefer standard development process. Though cost is not too important, I would be unlikely to regularly use most expensive films. Unless I go all out, I will be scanning, so film with excessive curl is problematic. Suggestions appreciated. HP5+ developed in HC110 Dilution B is "like buttah" TMY (TMAX 400) develedop in TMAX developer gives you a "clean and stark and almost moody B&W look" -- Google "tmax 400 developed in tmax" to see what I mean. TMX (TMAX 100) developed in TMAX gives you a similar effect as TMY but less stark -- Google the same text as above, but replace 400 with 100. Cheers! Edited November 16, 2017 by photo_galleries 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Bowes Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 You are brave! New puppy & now "new" films! As most can see, I have "stuck" with the Ultrafine Xtreme / Kentmere films for the last few years. Developers are my DIY Obsidian Aqua or the PyrocatHD (glycol) mixes. "Standard" developing (1.1ml OA, 3ml A&B for Pyrocat) with either film or mix is 16min in a 450ml Nikor tank, +/- 2 min for push/pull developing & of course, your personal adjustments. Ultrafine is on Ebay & they offer a "trial" pack of 3 emulsions (35mm). The 100 or 400 materials are Kentmere & I rate them at 80 & 250asa. Their "T grain" 400 material is a beast which I still have not arrived at a usable, consistent asa rating. Currently, it is plagued with emulsion defects. A trial pack in 120 format (100 & 400 material) is also offered. Same spec's to me. All are flat when dry, so no scanning problems with them. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Many folks prefer HP5+ to Tri-X. I'm not one of them, but it's worth giving both a fair shot and at least shooting a roll or two of HP5+. I also love FP4+-it's not Plus-X, but I can get the tonality closer to Plus-X than I can anything else available. You might want to dip your toes in the water with a T-grain emulsion also. I'm not a fan of any of them, but I like TMY-2(TMAX 400) better than TMX(TMAX 100). The Ilford Delta films compete directly with these emulsions, so they are an alternative. Pan-F is a nice slow speed film, but it can be a bit fussy in terms of exposure and it has horrible latent image retention. I forget what the availability of Acros is these days-I have limited experience but it's a somewhat different "feeling" film than anything I've ever used. All of the above can be developed in conventional chemistry. I've warmed up to TMAX films a bit after using TMAX developer(rather than D76). Aside from that, though, D76, HC-110, or whatever developer you choose will work fine. Some films really "sing" in certain developers, but the common ones will get a useable image out of all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur_gottschalk Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I have used Tmax with pinhole as its lack of reciprocity simplifies things and makes for shorter exposures. But I have great difficulty with Tmax in the enlarger because I can't seem to focus with my grain focuser because there is (almost) no grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgelfand Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I'll second Ben's suggestion of Ilford Pan F+. I like it developed in Rodinal 1 + 50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Rollei RPX 25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wouter Willemse Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 HP5 in HC110 indeed (though I use dil. H for longer development times) - the combination just works great. Delta 100 is great too, in my view, and seems to work well in any kind of developer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 The Kentmere 100 works well for me in HC110 dilution H. I find the contrast and tones remind me more of Plus-X than FP4+ does. But I do like the softer contrast of FP4+ for some subjects and especially on sunny days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Farrell Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I've been using Arista Edu Ultra 100 - inexpensive, and gives good results. I develop it in Rodinal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony-S Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 35mm, 120 or something else? Delta 100 and Acros are my favorites. I use more XTOL and Perceptol than others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bethe_fisher Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I shoot a fair amount of Acros in 120. It's always been too expensive in 4x5, so I shoot HP5+ or Delta 100 in 4x5. While I like Acros (and it doesn't show reciprocity problems until you meter up around a couple of minutes), I don't know how much longer it'll be around. I'm thinking of switching to FP4 in 120. I usually print in the darkroom, not via computer if that matters. Everything gets developed with DD-X. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanKlein Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I tried Tmax 100. developed by a lab in Xtol. Very smoothe (t grain), no curls and scans easily. Here are some of my samples. Good luck. BW Film - MF Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/albums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 I haven't thought about what is out there, so I looked on the site for my nearest real camera store. You probably should say 35mm or 120, but in any case. First is Adox CHS 100 II. (a little more expensive than some) Second is Agfa (Rollei) Infrared Next is Rollei Ortho 25. In addition to the usual Kodak and Ilford films, there is Ilford SFX: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1904/product_id/702/ from that, I would say try the SFX. Specifically, using a red or deep red filter. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Gents, many thanks -- sorry for the assumption of info - just, 35mm, not ready to get back into 120 or sheet yet (if at all). Been busy most of the day with other stuff. I will get back with individual thanks in the a.m. BR, Sandy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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