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Suggestions for Film "Tryers"


Sandy Vongries

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Putting together an order to restock B&W films. So far, Tri X and XP2. When I restock wine I usually add a pair or two of "tryers" to the case along with favorites. Would like to do the same with films. There are quite a few, familiar films and many not. Any "must try" suggestions? ISO, except at extremes, not an issue, but prefer standard development process. Though cost is not too important, I would be unlikely to regularly use most expensive films. Unless I go all out, I will be scanning, so film with excessive curl is problematic.

Suggestions appreciated.

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Putting together an order to restock B&W films. So far, Tri X and XP2. When I restock wine I usually add a pair or two of "tryers" to the case along with favorites. Would like to do the same with films. There are quite a few, familiar films and many not. Any "must try" suggestions? ISO, except at extremes, not an issue, but prefer standard development process. Though cost is not too important, I would be unlikely to regularly use most expensive films. Unless I go all out, I will be scanning, so film with excessive curl is problematic.

Suggestions appreciated.

 

HP5+ developed in HC110 Dilution B is "like buttah"

 

TMY (TMAX 400) develedop in TMAX developer gives you a "clean and stark and almost moody B&W look" -- Google "tmax 400 developed in tmax" to see what I mean.

 

TMX (TMAX 100) developed in TMAX gives you a similar effect as TMY but less stark -- Google the same text as above, but replace 400 with 100.

 

Cheers!

Edited by photo_galleries
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You are brave! New puppy & now "new" films! As most can see, I have "stuck" with the Ultrafine Xtreme / Kentmere films for the last few years. Developers are my DIY Obsidian Aqua or the PyrocatHD (glycol) mixes. "Standard" developing (1.1ml OA, 3ml A&B for Pyrocat) with either film or mix is 16min in a 450ml Nikor tank, +/- 2 min for push/pull developing & of course, your personal adjustments.

Ultrafine is on Ebay & they offer a "trial" pack of 3 emulsions (35mm). The 100 or 400 materials are Kentmere & I rate them at 80 & 250asa. Their "T grain" 400 material is a beast which I still have not arrived at a usable, consistent asa rating. Currently, it is plagued with emulsion defects. A trial pack in 120 format (100 & 400 material) is also offered. Same spec's to me.

All are flat when dry, so no scanning problems with them. Bill

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Many folks prefer HP5+ to Tri-X. I'm not one of them, but it's worth giving both a fair shot and at least shooting a roll or two of HP5+.

 

I also love FP4+-it's not Plus-X, but I can get the tonality closer to Plus-X than I can anything else available.

 

You might want to dip your toes in the water with a T-grain emulsion also. I'm not a fan of any of them, but I like TMY-2(TMAX 400) better than TMX(TMAX 100). The Ilford Delta films compete directly with these emulsions, so they are an alternative.

 

Pan-F is a nice slow speed film, but it can be a bit fussy in terms of exposure and it has horrible latent image retention.

 

I forget what the availability of Acros is these days-I have limited experience but it's a somewhat different "feeling" film than anything I've ever used.

 

All of the above can be developed in conventional chemistry. I've warmed up to TMAX films a bit after using TMAX developer(rather than D76). Aside from that, though, D76, HC-110, or whatever developer you choose will work fine. Some films really "sing" in certain developers, but the common ones will get a useable image out of all of them.

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I shoot a fair amount of Acros in 120. It's always been too expensive in 4x5, so I shoot HP5+ or Delta 100 in 4x5. While I like Acros (and it doesn't show reciprocity problems until you meter up around a couple of minutes), I don't know how much longer it'll be around. I'm thinking of switching to FP4 in 120. I usually print in the darkroom, not via computer if that matters. Everything gets developed with DD-X.
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I haven't thought about what is out there, so I looked on the site for my nearest real camera store.

 

You probably should say 35mm or 120, but in any case.

 

First is Adox CHS 100 II. (a little more expensive than some)

 

Second is Agfa (Rollei) Infrared

 

Next is Rollei Ortho 25.

 

In addition to the usual Kodak and Ilford films, there is Ilford SFX:

 

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1904/product_id/702/

 

from that, I would say try the SFX. Specifically, using a red or deep red filter.

-- glen

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