Sugestions / tips for shooting in varanasi

<p>Hi all,<br>

I am going to visit varanasi for 3 days (2-5 October). this will of course be a family trip but I wil use whatever time I can shooting pictures. I have a few shots in mind (Pictures of the Ganga aarti at the dasaswamedh ghat in the evening, the ghats filled with people performing rituals, Sunrises etc). Please suggest to me other shooting oportunities if any and your experiences / tips about how, where and at what time (approx) to position myself for getting the above mentioned pictures especialy about the pictures of the ganga aarti as i hear it gets very crowdy.<br>

All your inputs on the above would help me a ton. I have of course searched the site and a few material relevant to me but not much. Therefore, all your sugesstions are welcome.<br>

I have a D80 with 18-105 VR, 70-300 (old non VR version) if that is of any significance. Would I require a tripod for shooting in varanasi? Does any one have any idea, if setting up a tripod on the daswamedh ghat at the time of the aarti allowed and possible due to the crowd? Actualy I would like save the weight of the tripod if not necessary.<br>

This is a terrific site for all with very kind and helpfull forums. A lot of thanks you all in advance for your sugestions and time.</p>

<p>Well, the fact that you'll be there with the family does present some "interesting" challenges. Let me explain:</p>

<p>1. The evening ritual is (EVERY evening) a hugely overcrowded affair, with people arriving on foot from pretty much everywhere WAY before the sun sets, in order to get good seats. This means, unavoidably, that unless you are willing to get there early (say at least 1 1/2 hours before the event) chances are you won't be able to get a good place. However, there is a solution: you must understand that the ceremony is facing the water, so the best place to approach it is from the water. So, what you do is this: earlier in the day, find a boatman some way up the river (Aasi Ghat is a good place) and arrange to meet him relatively early - say 2hrs before the event) and row with him downriver until you get outside the ghat. Tip him a bit more and he'll get you REALLY close and, assuming you're early enough, you should be among the first boats there, securing unparalleled access. Now of course, this would mean you'd have to lounge there for approximately 1hr until things start happening, but that's the price you pay for getting great images. If you, and your family, have the patience, then you should be well rewarded.</p>

<p>2. Forget about the tripod - just up the ISO (as much as your camera can afford) and shoot that way. Flash is also allowed, but it won't do you much good. Your lenses are, indeed, way less than ideal for what you'll be trying to shoot, so maybe you should think about investing in renting a faster lens for the trip.</p>

<p>3. BEWARE (and I cannot stress this enough) about shooting ANY images around any of the two surviving burning ghats - it's considered blasphemy and people WILL come after you the moment they see you and things can become nasty. I saw that happen with two photographers while I was there and it was not a pleasant sight.</p>

<p>4. Feel free to navigate the narrow streets of Varanasi but mind you, the smells can be WAY overpowering. Between navigating cow urine puddles, raw discarded meat and sewage, you can grab some amazing shots of people and their lives, some incredible faces, street scenes, etc. It just takes an iron-lined stomach, the ability to breathe through your mouth (and not your nose) and dedication...it won't be an easy task, so I'd be pretty considerate in involving the family.</p>

<p>5. Find a ricksaw driver, make an agreement with him, and visit the muslim quarter where they make all the silk shawls and stuff. It's a very interesting place and, while incredibly run down and apparently a bit dodgy, a small tip to your driver (promised for when you return, obviously) could secure you a chance to shoot in one of the workshops where such items are actually made, still in traditional equipment, under conditions which can be an eye opener.</p>

<p>Now, finally, as to the sunrise photos, I would not put much stock in them as, 8 times out of 10, early morning in Varanasi is a very misty affair and not much can be seen. Now, sunset might be a different story IF you can find the appropriate vantage point.</p>

<p>You can see some picture from Varanasi in <a href="http://www.mariosforsos.com/Asia/India/11827145_LiVz7#836018174_7vyeC">http://www.mariosforsos.com/Asia/India/11827145_LiVz7#836018174_7vyeC</a>. Have a great trip...</p>

<p> Marios above summed it all in the best possible way. I would emphasise again his point #3. Don't count on you being on a boat and thus (apparently) able to escape people moving along the banks. Taking photos of the ghats means asking for serious trouble, and getting it.<br>

An additional potential hint: while Marios' suggestion about renting your own boat would of course give you a maximum of freedom, some of the best hotels organise boats for their guests. Of course this would imply accepting a fixed schedule and sharing the trip with other people, but I have noticed that these boats routinely move to the best places in front of everybody else, even when they arrive very late. In our first visit, we were in our own boat (as per Marios' suggestion), but when a larger boat with some 20+ peole onboard and the logo of a five-star hotel placed itself just in front of us blocking much of the view, our boatsman refused our requests and even promises for extra money to regain a better position. So, if your hotel does organise a boat, this is an option not to be dismissed lightly.</p>

<p>With regard to the evening puja, I would not get trapped on a boat; once you're there you can't easily get out. Very difficult to select a good shooting angle. Those performing the puja ( four or five) line up parallel to the river, face the Ganges much of the time but often turn. In January I had very good shots from a spot up-river from the priests (?), sort of in line with them, where there were only a few people. You can get quite close, and when they turned (they perform in unison) some very nice shots.<br>

Shooting from a boat is very rewarding in the early morning, right after sunrise. As you face the river, the sun is largely behind you and you can get some nice effects of the sun through the morning fog on boats and the pastel/orange/red/tan of the buildings on the ghats. You will also be facing those performing their rituals in the Ganges. Also there isn't much of a boat crowd.</p>

<p>With regard to the burning ghats, as you are a responsible photographer, I am sure you would not take pictures because you knew the people would not want it - NOT BECAUSE you were afraid they would come after you. I am sure you ask permission when snapping portrait-type shots - in situations where the subject might be offended - and that you do not take a shot when someone declines.</p>

<p>If you've travelled somewhat, the smells in the lanes and backstreets of Varanasi will not bother you more than anywhere else. And you will not see much discarded meat as so many Hindus are vegetarian. <br>

Finally, if you,ve not yet booked a hotel, try and get one right on the river - near Assi ghat there is Palace on the Ganges and Ganges View (not sure of exact names). There you have the flexibility of having it all at your doorstep whenever you want - for example, befor your kids wake up.</p>

<p>Above all, relax and enjoy the charm and openness of India and the Indian people.</p>

<p>A very grateful thanx to all for contributing your time and valuable help. As I am an Indian and also a hindu, I do well understand the sentiments and don not have any urge to shoot at the burning ghats. But your suggestions regarding the vantage points for taking the shots of the evening puja were really helpful. I would surely try to post a few shots after I get back.<br>

Again a big thanx to all for your valuable help. <br>

ABHILIN</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

All of the answers are very useful.<br>

In Varanasi, for you Ganga photo trip, I would recommend you to book your small boat as early as possible in the morning and, if possible, to hire a guy for your family alone. It is not that expansive and it will give you a lot more of shoulder room to take the shots. (If you are 20 tourists in the same boat, lots of people get in the frame)... Plus it gives you a lot more flexibility to slow down and navigate around point of interest and more photogenic areas.</p>

<p>While during the night celebration it gets crowdy, luckilly many indians love to have their picture taken... Just be transparent and let them know that your are picturing them, and they will most of the time smile for it.</p>

<p>You can see the result of my trip here :<a href="

It has a section about Delhi, Rajasthan and Kerala as well, but you will recognize Varanasi shots in the mid-section.</p>

<p>Enjoy India. <br />S"</p>