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Strange streaks when processing Tri-X


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<p>Hi,<br>

<br />I've been experiencing a problem developing Tri-X. I've solved most of my issue with streaks and drying marks, using distilled water and ilfotol for the final wash, but I can't seem to shake this weird distortion that keeps happening. They generally run down the center of the film, and rather than the usual whitish marks, these look more 'shimmery.' Here's an example:<br>

http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17889872-lg.jpg<br>

<br />I can't seem to shake this problem, mainly because I'm not even sure exactly what it is. Any help on identifying what's causing it and how to stop it from happening would be greatly appreciated. (Also, if there's a way to get these marks off already-processed film, I'd love to find out.<br>

<br />Thanks for looking...<br>

</p>

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<p>I'm seeing them as newton rings. Newton rings occur when the film touches the scanner bed glass.<br>

The only solution is to make sure the negatives are flat in the film holder or to turn the film over so that the bow in the film is pointing up.</p>

<p>I'm betting that if you look at the negative with a good loupe the rings will not be there. </p>

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<p>Ditto, Newton's Rings. Very common problem with film in direct contact with glass, either scanners or glass negative carries in enlargers. Some films are more vulnerable than others. Anti-Newton's Ring glass helps with enlarger negative carriers, but I'm not sure what the solution is for flatbed scanners. I use a dedicated film scanner with no direct glass-to-film contact so this doesn't happen. It can also happen when scanning glossy prints on flatbeds. Sometimes when that occurs I'll lift the pressure a bit off the scanner lid. A little masking tape around the edges can help relieve the pressure a bit. It may involve sacrificing a bit of flatness for eliminating Newton's Rings.</p>
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<p>Newton rings are moire lines folks. You do not need to be touching glass to have them; just the right density of grain can trigger it.</p>

<p>If you are using stock holders and flat film, you can use one or a combination of the following....</p>

<p>1) Use a different dilution of your developer.<br>

2) Use a different scanning resolution..higher more preferable.<br>

3) flip the negatives back to front, having the emulsion side down. You can flip them post processing.<br>

4) Start fluid mounting. This is what I do. You can make one like this http://myfilmstuff.blogspot.ca/2010/04/5-wet-mount.html</p>

 

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Thanks everyone. It would make

sense if these were moire lines/newton

rings, because they often seem so

symmetrical, and the dried Tri-X has

such a curl to it.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a loupe to

check the negatives that closely, but

just looking at them in the light I don't

see the marks. I will have to get one I

think, just to be able to evaluate the

negatives themselves and in the

meantime, I'll try some of those tips to

see if I can improve the scans. I'd

much rather have a scanner problem

than a negative problem.

 

I really appreciate all the answers and

input. Thanks again.

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<p>These are not marks on the film itself. They are created when light passes through them. Nothing wrong with those negatives.</p>

<p>Those better scanning holders mentioned try (not always, but most of the time) resolve the problem by scattering the light. Wet mounting resolves the problem by suspending the film in a scanning fluid and scattering the light.</p>

<p>With your scanner as provided by Epson, should not be having this problem. You need to reexamine how you are preparing the film for scanning. It should never be touching the glass. Otherwise, go through the list I gave.</p>

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<p>The cure for curl, is to roll your film backwards and stick it in a plastic 35mm film case for an hour or so. I have also used a 120 spool and the 120 backing. It's much easier to do this before you cut it. Try not to get it wet again or it will likely curl all over again. It's the only way to deal with LuckySHD.</p>
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