charles_lipton Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I'm setting up a small studio in the garage. I use a 5D and have the 550EX and 580EX flashes. I've been reading up on wireless transmitters and triggering flashes remotely. It seems all I can find that will trigger EOS flash units is the ST-E2. Are there other options? Perhaps another wireless transmitter that works with EOS Speedlights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuppyDigs Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Any of the top of the line EX Speedlites acts as master as well, but you know that. You might find an old 550EX for cheaper than a ST-E2. You could use a PC cord if you don't mind manual power settings. Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see. - Robert Hunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinsouthern Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Pocket Wizards are the other option, but you're limited to manual only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 Other than using another flash to trigger the 2 or 3 slaves and for ETTL non manual operation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoneguy Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Hot shoe adapter for a pc cord, with just about any wireless transmitter/receiver combo will work. I have three 580's, and recently installed 1/8" jacks on them so I can plug pocket wizards directly into them. I just sold my ST-E2 because of the poor outdoor performance. It works fine in a room, but not well in bright light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_needham Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I just saw an ad for Quantum flashes that was advertising remote TTL for Canon and Nikon cameras. I assume with Quantum flashes. I didn't read up on it, but I think this is the link http://www.qtm.com/FreeXwire/?res_set=yes&res=1024&resh=768 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zigzag Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 For manual only there is a cheap solution but caveat emptor <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00NMuT">Cactus</a>. I have seen on this forum mention of a fully compatible wireless trigger 'in development' but I did not keep the link - this would obviously be a reverse engineered competitor. I did not find it in a quick search of the archives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3rdpwr Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 I wish Canon would release and update to the ST-E2 that supports 3 groups. I have 4 580EX speedlights, and I would like to get away with a heavy flash and flip bracket on camera. It would give me a little more freedom. Canon, are you listening? -Mario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 What about using a 220EX or 430EX as a master w/no flash to trigger the 580EX/550EX? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3rdpwr Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Only Canon's ST-E2, 550EX and 580EX's can act as masters in their wireless systems... (Also I believe Sigma may have one that will do this as well.) -Mario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin_sibson1 Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Actually, the macro flashes MT-24EX and MR-14EX can also act as masters, just for completeness, but that's not relevant for what Charles wants to do. What's your problem over using the ST-E2, Charles? Works fine in a studio setup apart from the limitation of not having a background Group C, but other then that it gives full wireless control. If you need Group C, you'll have to use an actual flash as the master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_larson1 Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Honestly. . .I have problem imagining controlling three groups. The flashes in the third group are probably better off fired in manual control. . .and once set to manual, they can be in "A" or "B" group. But. . .the AF support pattern for the ST-E2 was geared towards the old EOS-3, and won't support the veritcal or diagonal AF points of many newer EOS cameras. So an update is in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3rdpwr Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Mike Ferris, did you install the jacks yourself, or did you buy those pre-made ones? Do you have a link to the mod? Thanks! -Mario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zigzag Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Is this the place for the jack mod <a href="http://michaelbass.blogspot.com/2006/11/canon-flash-auxillary-sync-mod.html">Michael bass</a>? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 From what I've read on the ST-E2 is that it works best indoors and not in bright sunlight. Also it's line of sight and can't be used if I'm positioned equal to or in front of the strobes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 p.s. And was designed more specifically to be used with the focusing points of the EOS 3. Time for an upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_larson1 Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Well. . the 580/550EX controllers are ALSO line of sight. So outdoors. . you will be hosed. Indoors. . both the ST-E2 and 580/550 bounce very well off of walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savas_kyprianides Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Line of sight is not necessary indoors. I shot with speedlights behind me; further concealed by reflective umbrellas and they fired every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m3rdpwr Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Also from my understanding is the 550EX and 580EX have better range than the ST-E2... -Mario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savas_kyprianides Posted November 24, 2007 Share Posted November 24, 2007 Speedlights work within limits indicated by their guide number, so IR range differences are almost insignificant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourfa Posted November 24, 2007 Share Posted November 24, 2007 www.radiopopper.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin_sibson1 Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 What Jim said. For studio use, which is what you say you need, Charles, there's no problem at all with the ST-E2, and I don't see why in that situation you would need to use the AF beam anyhow. It's only coverage of some peripheral focusing points at fairly wide-angle settings (remember, the AF beam doesn't zoom, although there are two different ones on some devices) that shows up any differences between AF beam coverage, seldom a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 25, 2007 Author Share Posted November 25, 2007 I liked puppy's suggestion so I bought another 550EX on ebay for $200 (supposed to be in mint condition). That way I can use my 580EX as master and two 550EX's as slaves. Should work well. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin_sibson1 Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Charles, that should be fine, with just one caveat. If you don't want any on-camera flash and set the master to OFF (so that it acts only as a controller) you will still get a low-power trigger flash from it during exposure. Normally that doesn't matter because it is swamped by the effect of the slaves, but it can produce catchlights in eyes and specular reflections from shiny objects. Only the IR part of the spectrum is actually needed for signalling, and the ST-E2 does not produce any significant level of visible light, but actual flashes don't have that option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_lipton Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 Good point. Thanks for that info robin. If it turns out that is what happens during some portrait work I'll have to buy the ST-E2. What I'll probably do is soften the on camera flash and see if that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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