ST-E2/Canon Strobes vs Flash Meter/AC Strobes

I just finished a very simple flash test using a digital EOS camera for portraits. First I tried

using a 580ex main, 480ex fill using softboxes and a ST-E2 controller set at 2:1 and let the

camera have at it using ETTL. Second I tried a very inexpensive pair of AC powered JTL e-26

strobes using white umbrellas and a flash meter and full manual control. IMHO, the AC

powered umbrella portraits were a lot better. Much softer transition to shadow detail. So

based on my simple test, I would consider buying AC powered umbrellas and a flash meter if

you want to shoot digital portraits!

Err, duh. Studio strobes, flash meter, white umbrellas and human brain always wins over a

puny flash and computer algorithm. Nevertheless, you can get great results with

Speedlites shot into white reflectors on manual mode with a flashmeter or even guide

numbers. I do it all the time. The main advantage of multiple Speedlites is portability. Try

carrying your JTL e-26 strobes into the field...

Duh again (sorry, it was my first thought :o). This is an absurd comparison. Take a look at:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007tNJ&tag=

 

Read it. Then you will understand the softer highlight to shadow transition. Next, take your 580ex and 430ex and shoot them into umbrellas and run a comparison. You will likely need a small subject like a bowl of fruit or just a headshot to get a fair comparison of exposure control as the strobes likely output far more light.

 

Where the Canon setup is likely useful is in the field with things like macros on a cloudy day or an outdoor shoot where a couple of flashes on cheap light stands (low weight) will give harsh light but not fall over and break your lights in the slightest breeze.

 

The two setups serve different goals. Albeit, if you shot at ISO 800+ and used bounce flash (off the ceiling or off a 1x1.5 m white piece of foamcore) you would probably get similar results.

 

Please do not take the "duh" above as disrespect, it is just that you are comparing direct flash to diffused lighting and your conclusion (softer highlight to shadow transitions) is caused by the diffusion of the lighting, not the light source or metering method. :o) In other words you had a massive difference in the character of light you used on the subject and this is a variable you missed in determining your conclusion. Myself, I still have much to learn about lighting too.

 

Go take a look at the many MONTHLY LIGHTING PROJECTs and WEEKLY LIGHTING THEMEs under the Administration tab in the Lighting forum and you will get some constructive and helpful insight into why you got this reaction.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a?topic_id=1824&category=Administration

 

hope this helps,

 

Sean

You can have very precise shadows/highlights control with your EX flashes by using an appropriate light modifier. This means appropriate in *size*, *type* and *diffusion*.

 

But, you are also mixing/confusing two elements:

 

1) Exposure (quantity of light)

 

2) Diffusion (quality of light)

 

Even though exposure changes relative to the method of diffusion chosen they are otherwise unrelated. That is to say, the QUALITY of light will change with the different diffusers used, regardless of brand, model, type, of strobe used. Manual or automatic, TTL, E-TTL.

 

Using appropriate light modifiers I am able to get results from my EX flashes that are virtually indistinguishable from my studio setup.

Well I am glad everyone thinks this is so obvious:) I did this experiment in response to a

question here about shooting indoor portraits with canon flashes. My wife also often asks

me to "set up" the living room for portraits so she is in a similar situation. One suggestion

was to buy an ST-E2 controller. I happen to have a lot of photography stuff lying around

after 35 years of collecting stuff, including an ST-E2 controller so I did the comparison. I

fully realize that I could have used umbrellas with the Canon flash, but that is not very

convenient. It is convenient to use canon flashes with soft boxes on tripods and the ST-E2

controller OR a pair of cheap umbrella strobes with a long synch cord. In fact, you can buy

the latter for the cost of an ST-E2 controller. So I was just trying to point out that it

actually might be better in the long run to use dedicated AC umbrella strobes for indoor

portraits and maybe buy a flash meter in the future. Personally, I was a little suprised at

the harshness even with softboxes and using fill flash. I thought the results would be

closer to the AC strobe results. I purposefully used a pair of very inexpensive strobes and

not my Briteks for the comparison. As I said, my wife often asks me to "set up" the living

room for flash portraits. The ETTL method means that her exposure will be OK without my

needing to intervene, but the results are so inferior to the AC strobes that I am going to

recommend she uses the AC strobes and I will just have to spend the extra time setting up

her camera in manual mode.

Actually, shooting with EX flashes and umbrellas is quite easy, and no more aggravating than shooting with strobes and umbrellas. You just need the appropriate mount adaptor to mount the flashes and umbrellas to the stands.

 

I shot with a 580EX/430EX/ST-E2 setup on saturday, complete with umbrellas, and found it very simple to work with.

I'll second Adam. I use the ST-E2 with a 580EX and a 430EX both with umbrellas when I'm setting up a living room portrait shoot. They work great together. Just get them as close as possible to the model for a soft effect (and watch for reflections in the fireplace glass if you're using it as a background). I find working with umbrellas a breeze.