Spotmatic Newbie

<p>Hello All, I am a brand new member and making my first post. I was recently given a Spotmatic SP and two lenses by a neighbor. I'm very experienced with manual focus SLRs but, to date, with Canon FD only. This is my first experience with Pentax. My Spotmatic looks to be the later version, Serial 269XXX. Bottom rear right corner of floor plate engraved 23102. ASA goes to 1600, Speeds to 1/1000. Removed a mercury battery that had corroded in the battery compartment. Took a two handed Brownell screwdriver to take the battery cover off. I suspect that battery was the first that came with the camera and once it died, was not replaced. Cleaned the compartment and cover with 70% Iso Alcohol. Neightbor got the outfit new as a gift for his daughter as she started college in the mid 70's. Camera is very clean with a small dent in top of the pentaprism cover. The shutter sounds like the rear door in a Mercedes Benz. <br>

I also got two lens, both appear almost unused. I'm a little confused with the term SMC. I have a 50/1.4, marked Super-Takumar on front, Serial 359XXXX. The lens has what looks to be a thorium yellow tint. Am I correct or is the yellow tint a by-product of lens coating? I also have a 50/4.0 Super Macro Takumar (Serial 294XXXX) but without any yellow tint. Am I correct in thinking these two lens are highly regarded for their quality? Will the yellow tint (if it comes from Thorium) also tint my color slides? Is there a color-correcting filter that removes the yellow tint?<br>

I found a web site with owner's manuals both for the SP and for Takumar lenses. Printed them all out. Are there other good web sites that would tell me about my new gear (obviously the best is the Photo.Net Pentax Forum). I have so much Canon FD gear I don't know how much I can use these Pentaxs without being attacked during the night by a jealous Canon. <br>

I found the Web site for Pentax Repair Service, Mr Eric Hendrickson. Talked with him and going to pack body and lenses off for an estimate for a much needed CLA and door/mirror seals. Also want to be able to power the light meter with a current silver oxide battery with a voltage usable in the SP. Can that be done?<br>

Looking forward to putting some color slides through my new (to me) toy.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your help.<br>

Don Boyd </p>

<p> </p>

<p>SMC means super multi-coating. Pentax was among the first to bring multicoated lenses to the public. Everything's multi-coated nowadays, but it was an innovation at the time. </p>

<p>I've never had a thorium lens, but have aimed to get one just because I've heard so much about the yellow trouble. Home remedies generally suggest some exposure to UV from sunlight will clear that up. If you can see it tinting the light through the viewfinder, you can bet it will tint your color photo. My guess is that it has a limited impact on black and white photos; probably no greater than any other light yellow filtration.</p>

<p>You can use contemporary batteries with that camera. Wein cells are pretty much ordinary watch and hearing aid batteries, surrounded by a rubber gasket to help them fit in the battery compartment right. The gaskets look like drilled-out rubber valve seats; you might be able to make one yourself if you are handy with tools. If not, the Wein cells only cost a dollar or so more than a regular watch battery.</p>

<p>The seals on a Spotmatic are about as easy as can be done on a camera; but, I think Hendrickson's name has come up so much, (if he's the one I'm thinking of) he's probably one of the best choices, nationwide, for the CLA. Cameras sitting unused in a closet for decades could all probably use a good CLA; it's just a good common sense choice.</p>

<p>No need to worry about the Canon/Pentax stuff. Canons made some good cameras in the past; Pentax has, too. </p>

<p>It's a blonde or brunette question. If you get along with her well enough, the hair color won't really matter anyway.</p>

<p>That Spotmatic will be built like a tank. Use it until the shutter button falls off. When it does, put it back on and use it some more. They're good cameras. </p>

<p>The thoriated lenses are very good in terms of resolution and contrast, and potentially well worth having. They invariably give a colour cast - however it does vary from one lens to another. For use with colour slides, the tint will be quite obviously 'warm'. UV sunlight treatment takes too long to complete in my opinion: a UV lamp is a quick and effective way to reduce the tint to acceptable levels. In the meantime a B+W KB1.5 filter (also termed 'morning and evening filter') is usually a good starting point . If the brownish yellow discolouration is particularly strong a KB2 may be called for, but that is a strong blue and may result in over-correction.</p>

<p>There are plenty of posts on radioactive glass in this forum and in the Canon and Leica forums - some contributions are complete twaddle, so read with caution. You may wish to read <em><a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00VilF">this one</a> </em> to start with.</p>

<p>The Spotmatics are fine cameras with few, if any, 'bad habits'. Apart from light seals, the main problem being failures of the meter switch and/or rmeter cell - both are virtually un-fixable (at least, economically). Also, if the camera has had a lot of use, shutter speeds may be well off the mark, and in extreme cases can also be beyond economic repair. I haven't yet managed to wear out a Spotmatic, but I have worn out two of the earlier Pentax SV cameras. The shutter should be fairly quiet, but the mirror slap can be 'distinctive'.</p>

<p>BTW A silver cell of the right size works perfectly in the SP1 & SP11 but not in the SP-F.</p>

<p>The Spotmatic is a pretty simple, straightforward camera, especially for someone accustomed to using a film SLR. However, you can download a bad photocopy of the user guide from Pentax USA's website.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.pentaximaging.com/support/manuals-and-literature/">http://www.pentaximaging.com/support/manuals-and-literature/</a><a href="http://www.pentaximaging.com"></a></p>

<p>paul Noble</p>

<p>Hi Don: Depending on how yellowed it is, the 50mm Super-Tak will need the UV treatment if you want to shoot slides. The filters are band-aids that may help if the yellowing is light but you really want clear glass for slides. Less problematical with B&W film. Similar to the Canon FD Chrome-nose pre S.S.C. 35mm f/2 in that way. Your 50mm macro should be OK. The CLA should give you a fun shooter. The SMC Takumars compare well to the Canon FD lenses, in my tests (a bit cooler in color), and the SMC 50mm f/1.4 and 135mm f/2.5 are superb and have a found a permanent home on my Spotmatic F. Good luck with your new rig! I hope you plan on being discreet about this. Hell knows no fury than an F-1 scorned! LOL</p>

<p>The macro should be a crazy sharp lens. I'd probably leave it on the body most of the time.</p>

<p>The Spotmatics have a light meter circuit that will eliminate changes in meter readings with slight variations in voltage. The idea was that you wouldn't shoot a stop under with a fresh battery and a stop over with a weak one, but it has proven an invaluable feature for those of us who were freaking out about powering our Spotty's in the mid-90s. I've pushed a full 1.5 volts through one and the meter was still 'spot' on.</p>

<p>Matthew is right on, the meter will be as accurate as ever with an Alkaline 625 battery, which is readily available new and fresh. Or you can use the silver oxide 625 batteries, which last longer.</p>

 

<p>Thanks to all, Louis good to see you again. I feel I neglected my F-1s/EF/T-70 through our dismally long winter and never-ending visits with the medical community. Was about ready to stir my 35-105 again when my neighbor came up with this gift. Almost turned him down but couldn't work up the nerve (he's older than me). I'm sure you're aware of Mr Oikawa, the FD Guru. I've found who seems to be his Pentax counterpart, Mr. Eric Hendrickson.<br>

I see that Pentax lens (somewhat similar to Canon) have several versions of 'badging'. Mine are Super-Takumar and Super-Macro-Takumar. I see photos of some lenses marked 'SMC' but without any 'Super'. The presets are probably just 'Takumar'. Do my lens have multi-coatings though not marked SMC? By coincidence, B&H has a used Hoya 82A VG in box for $9. I may try the filter on the cheap. I think the only film I'll ever use is Fuji slide stuff. I'll try some with and some without the filter to experiment.<br>

Is the UV treatment long-lasting or permanent? I see the most efficient treatment seems to be with a UV light bulb vice the sun. May try that. Anyone with experience? </p>

<p>Hey Don,</p>

<p>You could buy a used pentax dslr for +or- $200 and a screw mount to k mount adapter for $30 and use both 50mm screw mount pentax lenses on dslr. Look at KEH for used or B&H to splurge and buy new K-x and its two "kit" lenses for $637 new and the K adapter to screw mount for $30 bill.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651672-REG/Pentax_16201_K_x_Digital_SLR_with.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651672-REG/Pentax_16201_K_x_Digital_SLR_with.html</a></p>

<p>Or for $10-$20 you could locate a Canon FD era "P" adapter and adapt the screw mount lenses to FD cameras you already own. It offers you infinity focus. Its the most common of all FD mount adapters. You may own one already ?</p>

<p>Nice thing about pentax is they make dslrs that accept your new to you lenses, with adapter, which they still offer too. Backwards compatibility king is Pentax. I've never owned a screw mount pentax lens, played with them at local shop. Bayonet mount was a handy fast lens change improvement pentax implemented in 1978.</p>

<p>One week exposure (24/7) with a UV lamp in a white box to my slightly affected 35/2 SMC Takumar was enough to effectively neutralise the colour cast . It is not likely to be permanent, but re-yellowing will probably take several years.</p>

<p>Not much to add as you have received some great advice and knowledge. I will say that I own a couple of Canons. An AE-1 program and an FTB. Among the dozen Pentax SLR's I own, I also have a Spotmatic SP and SP2. In fact the Spotmatic SP is someplace around the country traveling. :)<br>

I really enjoy my spotmatic and as good as those FD lenses are, those super taks are amazing.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Don, I just finished reading your bio and I am wondering and hoping you have a portfolio or website. I would lobe to see your images. Decades and decades. What your viewfinders must have seen has me wondering :)</p>

<p>Javier, I spent about 2+ years sorting a lifetime's worth of several thousand slides down to several hundred that I like. My son got me a Nikon Coolscan V ED scanner as a present almost 5 years ago and I started scanning and uploading to FLICKR. Here's the url for 800+ of my photos.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/donboyd/<br>

I started with two Canonflex RMs and five Supercanomatic lenses in the early 60's while in Japan. Used that outfit till it wore out and Canon no longer had parts. Drug it through the Orient, Middle East and Northern Africa. Unfortunately we had our first house burn in 1967 so many slides were lost. Went to the F-1n in mid-70's with one FDn 100mm F4 Macro lens. That's all I had till the outfit was stolen in mid 90's. Was so mad I didn't take a picture till 2000 when my son put me on the web. Found EBay and the rest is history. Rekitted with F-1n's, an EF, AT-1's and a T-70. Got more lens and accessories than I have time to use (still can't figure out why I took this guy's Spotmatic SP). As Louis knows, my first love is the F-1n.<br>

Lindy, good to chat with you again. You know I don't speak digital worth a damn. Luck to you all.</p>

<p>Don Boyd</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I wouldn't feel obligated to restore the old Spotmatic Don.</p>

<p>People have given me cameras when they find out I love phototgraphy. Cameras their loved ones owned and they themselves then never used. Cameras that then get tossed (again) in a box, I've got several. My most interesting one is a 1913 Kodak autograph. Came with a metal pen to put note on edge of image while film is still in camera. Never shot film with it. Last I looked it was worth... $20.</p>

<p>I didn't know if you joined the digital slr rat race. I rarely visit FD gear forums. Digital slr's are fun for me & the wife. We still go out annually and shoot at national parks. With an adapter you could use all your FD glass on Panasonic micro 4/3 cameras. I bought the adapter for the remaining Fd lenses I own still, but I have not bought a Panasonic camera yet. Here's the one I'd buy today, if I were to buy it today:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/608940-REG/Panasonic_DMC_GH1K_Lumix_DMC_GH1_Digital_Camera.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/608940-REG/Panasonic_DMC_GH1K_Lumix_DMC_GH1_Digital_Camera.html</a></p>

<p>Everybody thesedays make fine digital slrs. Pentax, Nikon, Canon, even Panasonic. After FD my first Dslr was Pentax, then moved on to Canon Eos, after forgiving them for abandoning FD System, and for good measure added my first Nikon camera last year, a D700.</p>

<p>I wonder how many pros shot the 2010 Olympics with high end film cameras ? I assume less than 1%.</p>

<p>At minimum get the Canon FD "P" adapter to use those two lenses on F-1n. Personally, I never liked screwing on and screwing off the m42 lenses I've tried out at local shop. Bayonet mount was a great innovation, as you know you're canon offered this feature in what, 1959? Pentax added it in 1978.</p>

<p> </p>