Snorkeling Gear Questions

<p>So I'm off to Hawaii in a few months with snorkeling (not diving) a focus of the trip. I'd like to take both videos and stills. I currently own a Panasonic TS2, which did not do well for me in one previous snorkeling trip, though the reason may have been lack of good light or too much silt in the water. I am considering my options. Here are the choices I have come up with, and welcome any comments or suggestions:</p>

<p>1. Use the Panasonic TS2 as is and hope for good light and little silt. Pros: No added expense. Cons: Poor quality last time out.</p>

<p>2. Upgrade with a point-and-shoot, getting a Panasonic TS4 or Olympus TG-1. Pros: Newer cameras might produce better results. Cons: Added expense ($300+) and perhaps no significant quality increase.</p>

<p>3. Purchase Underwater housing for my Panasonic ZS7. Pros: Perhaps better quality because the camera has better overall optics. Cons: Expense (about $250), added bulk; perhaps no better results in the end.</p>

<p>4. A serious upgrade to, say, a SeaLife 1400 with Strobe. Pros: Almost certainly better image quality, including better color saturation, given the strobe at least. Cons: Significant expense (almost $900), and bulk, and neither might be justified for what I need (given that I will not be scuba diving) if any of the above options are likely to work well.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for any comments.</p>

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<p>Strobes are always better when you scuba. But with very shallow snorkeling, you should be able to get decent "snaps" if the water is clear on a bright day. Try not to shoot down into the coral but rather horixaontally or even a little up to add contrast to the scene. With video, try to keep yourself neutrally balance. Don't make jerky maneuvers which only will get people viewing a little nauseous. </p>

<p>Here's a slide show on video with music I put together after one of my trips may years ago (it was on slide film). Of course today, you can mix videography with the photo in the same show. Don't forget to have beginning and ending pictures and/or video for a complete story line. Good luck and have fun. Alan<br>

<p> </p>

The new Pentax point and shoot has an interesting flash system (led lights around the lens) that in theory should be

great for macro underwater. Worth a look see.

<p>Usually dedicated video cams have better light capability in the lens....like F1.6-2.8. You can't get that out of a compact camera. Depending on water clarity, you may need video light/s and also flash for stills. I think renting would be the best way out. Much depends how much are you willing to compromise IQ. You could rent 5DII in a case + a decent lens and the ISO's will carry the day.</p>

<p>Buying a pro flash unit for underwater is rather expensive (though it may make sense to you), and even if you're going to sell it afterwards....it's a specialized equipment....and you'll be sitting on it for a while.</p>

<p>Whatever solution you come up with, it will likely be on an expensive side, since you're insisting on shooting both video and stills.</p>

<p>Les</p>

 

<p>Underwater photography is 99% technique more so even then above water. Ive seen SeaLife Point-n-shoots turn out beautiful photo's and Ive seen $10,000 Subal DSLR housings turn out snap shot quality. First of all what ever you do in the equipment world, go spend some time in pools before you go. Since you are only snorkeling you are limited by your ability to hold your breath. If you are just shooting from the surface you are going to get MUCH more garbage. You need to be able to get down to the subject and put as little space between you and the subject as possible, MAX 3-5ft (easy enough with corals and seascapes, easier said then done with fish). Secondly if your not using a weight belt, get one. Your not intending on using alot of weight just enough to help you stay down when your on the bottom with a full lung of air. Get in any body of salt water with what ever wet suit(if ur intending on having one on) to test weight just add 1lb at a time until you sink slightly with easy breaths out and rise slightly with each inhale, this should just be with minimal treading and your head should still always be out of the water. It should only take a few lbs (until you are really comfy with the weight belt don't go swimming really far away from the boat/shore/some secure floatation for the extra weight can help tire you out quickly) You want to be able to get down, swim around a bit, position your self and take your shot, depending on the depth 1min on a breath hold is kinda a minimum imho</p>

<p>Now when it comes to actual gear, I have experience with both an Olympus tough series point-n-shoot, SeaLife DC series Point-n-shoot, as well as a Sea&Sea DSLR Housing(my baby). The biggest suggestion, Get a flash unit, Get a flash unit, Get a flash unit. You can shoot some great shots without a flash but you are much more limited, to things like VERY shallow water, Clear water, Bright sun. Even then you are limited to shots like Sillouette shooting because to get the best lighting your going to want to shoot horizontal or up. If you staying under 10ft then your fine I guess w/o a flash but If your looking at 10 15 20+ ft your going to need added light to bring out your colors (Red completely disappears once you hit 33ft, I'm not expecting you to free dive 33ft necessarily BUT the closer you get to that depth the more muted the red side of the spectrum)Oh and also with flashes you want it as far away from the lens as possible. If the flash is right on top of the lens (like a regular camera flash) it will reflect off any dust particulates in the water back into the lens and you will see every one of those little specs in your shot. The farther away from the lens the strobe is the less of that halfmooning you will see and the smaller each spec of dust will appear. If the only flash you have is the on camera one It will be better to shoot only shots that you don't need the flash.</p>

<p>If your shooting Video make sure you move slow if you swing around fast you'll mess w/ your viewers eyes and you will mess w/ the lens/focus etc possibly even creating bubbles on the lens which will interfere with your shot obviously :D Also IF you buy a flash unit of any kind try to find one that has the ability to stay on as a spot light for video(kinda hard to find in lower $ flashes but im sure there are some out there, a jerryrigged underwater flashlight can work for this purpose too :D ), same concept as the flash for stills you want to add the reds back into anything in deeper water. </p>

<p>Complete Side note, while in Hawaii you may be able to do a "resort course" with your hotel which basically is a crash course in SCUBA which they will then allow you to dive with a Dive Master present. Just something you may like to think about because It is MUCH easier to shoot when you don't need to constantly swim back to the surface for air, even though the bubbles do scare off some of the bigger sea life sometimes.<br /> Let me know if you have any questions, maybe I can help more.</p>

<p>Thanks, Michael. Useful information. Seems that if I want to take decent shots, I'll need to learn to scuba die, because freediving is not likely to work for me (from experience).</p>

<p>it does it just takes practice and patients, scuba has its drawbacks. bubbles are very loud so anything that can get away from you... generally tries to</p>