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slave flashes what and how?


bartphoto

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i wish to purchase some off camera flash equpment and so far i know

the use of pc cords i recently looked into slaves and cant get a

hang of it how do u set up your kit and what us a good cheap kit i

could get i also found an alternative with flashes that go off when

another flash is trigered what would i look for in that i am a

skateboard photographer with a mamiya 645 i will soon own a leaf

shutter lens to sync at 500 help me out mostly with the flash

trigering another flash thing i think im going to go with that one i

have one vivitar 550 flash and i think ill buy 2 more

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The cheapest solution is to use an optical trigger that clips into the hot shoe of your flash. They're anywhere for $30-120 from companies like Wein. The more expensive versions have a bit more sensitivity. The downside is if someone else fires a flash, your slaves will fire. Also, they aren't often that great for daylight. The other downside is you have to fire it with a flash, and often you might not want an on camera light source. Also that miniscule fraction of a second it takes to sense and trigger can theoretically lead to some motion blur or ghosting. I've used them for some good results in the past, and still keep them in my bag for fill lights etc.

 

The more expensive solution is a pocket wizard type remote device, but they run about $350 for a set. Then you can add additional recievers for $150 or so. So basically for a few flashes your looking at $500 to start. I'd suggest gettting a couple optical slaves and working up from there, if you tend to shoot on your own most of the time. For events where other flashes are firing they aren't much good.

 

Typically for skate stuff you'll be using a two or three light set up. Since it sounds like you're looking to stay on the cheap side, look at the Wein opticals. Don't buy any of the cheap ebay type radio devices.

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>>Don't buy any of the cheap ebay type radio devices.

<<

 

The 4-channel versions from eBay work fine witin their fairly short range limits. I've thoroughly tested all of the model types and have used eight sets of the 4-channel/AC-powered type for over a year now.

 

Several major US vendors, including B&H, Paramount Cords, and Speedotron also sell them.

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Yes, I have a sense of humor. Punctuation is not the dictate of an evil tyrant, but a convention that facilitates communication. Just like not talking with a mouth full of food.

 

If capitals and punctuation marks pose such a burden, why bother with spaces? afterallyoucouldleaveitup toyour readerstofigureoutwhat you mean. That funny enough for you?

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What the heck guys. This is a Q and A forum, not middle school.

 

Anyway, with flashes, get the vivitar 285hv, or the sunpak 544 or 555. All three are really good for skate photography. Right now, I'm using a 15 foot sync cord and a wein optical slave for the second and third flash. The optical works with my sunpak 544 up to 50 feet outside during the day. For radio slaves, either get a quantum or a pocket wizard, but both are relatively expensive.

 

Check out www.Wheelsandwax.com - they have so much good info on skate photography. The site is dedicated to skate, snow, bmx, and mt. bike photography. They have everything you could ever want to know, and if they don't, you can post forum questions.

 

hope this helps!<div>00EvWd-27622184.jpg.629b6e371b0d44d47d49e7dc231b3082.jpg</div>

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PS. Make sure you don't get the HS "D", but get the normal HS model. The d is for digital and it ignores the preflash of the digital camera flashes. If you're using a normal flash setup with the mamiya, then the HS-D won't fire at all, but the HS will.
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