Shooting moving object in low light without flash

<p>Hi,<br /> I am very new to this shooting technique and wondering if there is any tips you guys can point out to help me gain experiences as below:<br /> I tried to shoot this object without flash but then, when I increase ISO and decrease shutter speed, the object still moves.<br /> When I increase the shutter speed and maintain the ISO then it seemes quite dark.<br /> I have seen some pic that people shoot in concert where the light is low and dont use flash, the object is freezed. Can anyone show me how?<br /> Thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Here is the one with high ISO and shutter speed</p><div></div>

<p>The reason the second photo is darker than the first is you increased shutter speed from 1/8" to 1/100", which is 12.5 folds, and you increased ISO from 400 to 1600, only 4 folds. to get the same level of exposure, you need to use lower speed or higher ISO.<br>

however, shutter speed lower than 1/100" might be too slow for you to freeze the moving object, and higher ISO may get the photo too grainy.<br>

from here you may increase your lens aperture for higher exposure.<br>

hope it helps.<br>

-Greg</p>

<p>Your key factor here is shutter speed. You must maintain a shutter speed that can freeze the motion. Therfore you should use shutter speed priority setting of say 60, 50,or 40 Depending on your lens and subject movement speed. The shutter speed is then locked and won't change any slower to result in blur.<br /> After that the auto ISO and auto aperture either can compensate for the lighting condition or it is just to dark for both to make up for the locked shutter speed that can not get any slower. Your too dark photo could probably be rescued with lighting shadows adjustments in PP. I use PS Elements 5.0 Perhaps the photos of concerts you refer to were also brightened and lightened with PP (post processing)</p>

<p>You need more light. That's basically what a flash does - gives you more light. EXIF data attached to the files indicates you're shooting in typically dim household light, around EV 6-7.</p>

<p>You could crank up the ISO, buy more expensive fast lenses and try all kinds of tricks. But the simplest and cheapest is... add more light. Turn on more lights. Use daylight. That will let you use a faster shutter speed to freeze action without resorting to higher ISOs, faster lenses or flash.</p>

<p>If you're talking about getting blur-free photos in venues like concerts or clubs where the photographer doesn't control the light, that's mostly a matter of good timing. Even with high ISOs and fast lenses you'll get some blurred photos with live performances, whether music, theater or dance. Just depends on how much light is available. When the spotlights are cranked up brighter there's more light so the photographer can use a faster shutter speed and minimize motion blur.</p>

<p>Two techniques not mentioned here: panning and peak action. When you've got an object moving in a predictable direction, panning with the object and pressing your shutter release during the pan will minimize the motion blur of the object--at the expense of the background, of course. Peak action simply means catching the action when motion is minimized, such as at the high point of a jump--the good timing Lex is talking about, hopefully clarified.<br>

If I were trying to freeze the object in your picture without additional light, I'd try a stack. Shoot one frame at a low shutter speed, low ISO, high aperture, full exposure, to get the background. Then shoot another frame at high ISO, high shutter speed, low aperture, underexposed, to capture the moving object. Composite the frozen object over your well-exposed noise-free background, and there you have it. <br>

Is adding light going to be a whole lot less trouble? Yes.</p>

<p>Don't forget, not everything needs to be "frozen" in time. I much prefer the first pic with the object in motion. Since it is an object that moves, why not depict that movement? It provides a "smell the roses" moment much better than the high shutter speed pic. However, use a tripod so that the non-moving object are rock solid unless you are using a panning technique.</p>

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<p>I am very new to this shooting technique and wondering if there is any tips you guys can point out to help me gain experiences as below . . .<strong><em> I have seen some pic that people shoot in concert where the light is low and dont use flash, the object is freezed.</em></strong> Can anyone show me how?</p>

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<p>There are a few other elements for you to consider also.<br>

As well as the <strong>speed</strong> of the movement of the object, the <strong>direction</strong> of the movement to the lens is important. In your image you have transverse motion (across the camera lens).<br>

Also you need to consider the relative shooting distance and focal length of the lens.<br>

For example, if the movement is transverse and fast and you are close or using a telephoto lens so the image looks close in the viewfinder, you will require a faster SHUTTER SPEED to make the object appear static. On the other hand if the movement is coming toward the camera or the object is far away or travelling slowly you can get away with a slower shutter speed.</p>

<p>Perhaps an extreme example would be photographing a snail with a macro lens (and tripod) and using 1/50s you might get some movement in his horny things, but you could use 1/50s to take a shot of the landscape with jet fighter high in the sky in the distance travelling at Mk1 and the jet would appear static.</p>

<p>Specifically answering your question, for Concerts, Theatres, Plays, and etc:</p>

<p>IF you want to or need to shoot without flash, then <strong>High ISO</strong>, <strong>Fast Lenses, Good Hand Hend Technique</strong> and <strong>Timing the Shoot</strong> such that the Subject is at the point of minimal movement, will be necessary, because eventually <em><strong>you will get to the point where the EV (Lighting) is so low you will be at the limit of your equipment,</strong></em> as in this shot here: <a href="../photo/9567764&size=lg">http://www.photo.net/photo/9567764&size=lg</a><br>

Shooting 1/80s @ F/1.8 ISO 3200, using an EOS 5D and EF85/1.8.</p>

<p><strong><em>If you want to use Flash,</em></strong> then a technique “Dragging the Shutter” is often used, such that the Flash Illumination freezes the subject but the Tv (Shutter Speed) is a little longer than necessary for the Flash exposure . . . and allows the Ambient Light to expose some of the surrounds and record the "atmosphere" in the picture.</p>

<p>You should read this: <a href="../learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/">http://www.photo.net/learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/</a><br>

<br>

WW</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks all! I guess I should change the lens now. Appreciate your help!</p>