Shooting Infrared 120 film with the RZ67

<p>Hello Everyone,<br>

I thought I'd posted this question yesterday but can't seem to find it. So I'll try again:<br>

I'm thinking about shooting Infrared Film, either in my 35mm's or preferably the RZ. First time for me and wondering if the collective has any words of wisdom for me. What brand/speed? Will I need additional red filters or does there exist a purely IR film still. I understand the Kodak variation no longer is an option. I'd like to shoot it in 120 and am wondering about loading/unloading... will I need a changing bag? I understand there can also be focus issues with IR film... will my RZ kit provide reliable results using just standard best practices, or are there IR specific techniques/gotcha's I should know about?</p>

<p>Any help would be much appreciated. I'm heading out in 2 weeks and am trying to nail down some details.<br>

Many thanks in advance,<br>

John B. Crane</p>

<p>Here's a synopsis of a recent experience in shooting involving several hundred frames of Efke IR 820 and Efke IR 820 Aura in 4x5 and 120 roll film (Mamiya RB67) formats. My subject matter was mountain landscapes in all weathers.<br /> <br /> The "Aura" feature does not do much on big film as the image "halation" or "flare" is quite small. I imagine in the 35mm format where the enlargement ratios are greater the "Aura" would be more prominent. Bunches of green leaves which "glow" in the infrared tend to merge into fuzzy blobs with significant over exposure. This effect is worse with the Aura version of Efke IR 820.<br /> <br /> There is a loose (did I say loose?) correlation between conventional meter readings and infrared exposures. My Pentax analog spot meter was set at EI=1.5 for front-lit sunny scenes, EI=0.75 for sunny day subjects where shadow detail was important, EI=0.3 for cloudy overcast days. Exposures were through IR680 and IR720 filters. Surprisingly it did not matter which filter was used. The results looked much the same!<br /> <br /> The IR680 and IR720 filters, 77mm diameter, came from China via Ebay. They cost about $20 each. It is possible, for me at least, to see through these filters and preview the infrared effect. The filter has to be held close to the eye, extraneous light carefully excluded, and the eye "dark-adapted" for about 30 seconds. I suspect that with the iris of the dark-adapted eye being wide open looking at the sun through an IR transmitting filter would be a very bad thing indeed.<br>

Film loading is conventional and does not require a darkroom or loading bag. My only precaution is to load out of direct sunlight in my own shadow.<br /> <br /> Efke IR 820 film shows significant reciprocity failure but the following corrections are what I use:<br /> 1 second metered, give1.5 seconds<br /> 2 seconds metered, give 3.0 seconds<br /> 4 seconds metered, give 6 seconds<br /> 8 seconds metered, give 12 seconds<br /> 15 seconds metered, give 30 seconds<br /> 30 seconds metered, give 80 seconds<br /> 60 seconds metered, give 3 minutes<br /> 120 seconds metered, give 6 min 40 sec<br /> 240 seconds metered, give 18 minutes<br /> These reciprocity corrections pretty well guarantee you'll get something useable on film but not exactly what you will get. Shooting IR is rolling the optical dice everytime.<br /> <br /> Infrared focus shift is real and horrible. Everything I shot with the 360mm lens on my Mamiya RB 67 is out of focus. I suspect I have to rack this lens out about 5mm to compensate the difference between the visible and IR focii. More exact measurements are planned. Wide angle (50mm) and normal (127mm) lenses well stopped down yielded sharp images but only because increased depth of focus forgives imprecision.<br /> <br /> Optimum development for my film now seems to to be 11 minutes at 20 Celcius in straight replenished Xtol. YMMV, naturally.<br /> <br /> In practice Efke IR 820 like other IR films I have tried both disappoints and exhilarates. A lot of subject matter I had high hopes for yielded unremarkable schmutz but some plain things turned to visual magic. That's the deal.</p>

<p>Hi Maris,<br>

Thanks so much for such a detailed response. After reading your executive summary at the bottom, I'm thinking I'll hold off on this trip and stick what will produce more predictable results. Perhaps I'll revisit when I have more time.<br>

Thanks again very much.<br>

John B. Crane</p>

<p>John, before its gone for good, get the experience of having shot Kodak EIR color infrared film. This guy here has a very few of the last ever film stock Kodak made. he couts it into 120 rolls from fresh arial stock.</p>

<p>Use a #12 yellow filter and set hand held meter at ASA 200, and transfer metert settings to</p>

<p>ive just bought 4 rolls of Rollei 400 IR 120 format. I hear its more friendly than the Efke but then ive not tried either yet. just waiting for the fiilter to arrive. my lens (80mm 2/8) has a marker on it for IR compensation, its a dotted line. other lenses have a red line or dot. I found a very imformative website or two which I will freely share with you now.<br>

http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/rollei_infrared.php<br>

http://www.martinzimelka.com/pages/EFKE_IR_820.html</p>

<p>I have shot many rolls of IR 120 (both Efke and Rollei) using a Mamiya RB 67. I posted a query regarding IR focus compensation and was usefully directed to data for RZ lenses. Not sure if I have the link anymore, but from memory, with lens focused on infinity:<br>

50/65/90mm: +0.5mm<br>

140/180mm: +0.7mm<br>

250/360mm: +1.0mm<br>

I too have had problems getting sharp images from the 360 in IR, but suspect this may be as much to do with camera shake as incorrect focus.</p>

<p>Hello Andre,<br>

Thanks for the heads up... do you have a link? I heard the EIR was out of stock. I'd love to capitalize on this opportunity if it in fact exists. Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Jonathan, thank you very much for the links. I'll take a look. My first inclination is, unless it's easy, I probably won't bother with it. I'm not lazy - just pressed for time and don't want to overcomplicate my objectives. I have lots of Tri-X, Pan F, TMAX and HP5+ so I'm pretty well stocked. But if IR is (somewhat) easy, I'll load a back and shoot some tests... <br>

Many thanks again. <br>

John B. Crane</p>

<p>Neil, thanks very much for your input. I'll be shooting primarily the 140macro with extension tubes, the 65LA, and the 250APO. I'm of course most interested in super sharp images - IR or otherwise. I use the clip-on magnifier and with all three of the above lenses (and the 110), and good hyerfocal, the resolution and detail of the images is simply beyond belief. Doing anything to undermine this - no matter how creative it might be ;-) - gives me pause... but if I can score some true IR film I'm up for it. Many thanks again.<br>

John B. Crane</p>

Hello John, get some of this stuff. Store it in freezer before and after using. It ages quickly in the heat. Dean stores it in a deep

freezer.

Here is link http://www.tarquinius.de/