Shooting in the snow

<p>Hello all,<br>

<br /> I was wondering if you all you lovely people could help me with a few things,<br>

<br /> 1. I’m going to be taking a trip to Canada soon and I would like to take some snow pictures with a Holga Camera and was wondering if there were any tricks that I should know about exposures<br>

<br /> 2. I just shot a roll of Kodak T-max 400 speed film in the snow, and bracketed at +1 and all my negatives turned out really dark, you could still see the image it was just really dark (bad exposure most likely) I didn't know if anyone could tell me what I did wrong and also any tips on printing with my dark negatives<br>

<br /> Thank you everyone!<br /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Regarding your first question...</p>

<p>Snow scenes in daylight are typically around EV 14-16. Since the Holga is limited in exposure settings to a shutter speed of 1/125 second and f/8 or f/11 (going by manufacturer specs, I don't own a Holga), you'll need to choose a film to suit the conditions. The Holga is modeled after the simple camera designs of decades ago when film speeds were typically much slower.</p>

<p>An ISO 400 film is too fast for those conditions - bright daylight reflected from snow with a camera having limited exposure options. Your photos will be overexposed. The negatives will appear "too dark."</p>

<p>For those conditions with a Holga choose an ISO 100 or slower film. Kodak T-Max 100, Ilford FP4+ or Pan F+ (ISO 50). I'd choose Ilford FP4+ for its flexibility. While nominally an ISO 125 film, it delivers good results from ISO 50-250 with careful processing.</p>

<p>While I agree with Lex, I must add that my Lomo Fisheye2 functions best with 800 film.....certainly it overexposes snow, but the results are printable. I have no information on the actual lens/shutter values though......Enjoy...Bob</p>

<p>Christin, when I have had my Holga out in the snow, I have typically followed these guides for devlopment:<br>

Daylight - Process for ISO 50 - typically I am pulling ISO 100 speed film 1-stop.<br>

Overcast - Process for ISO 250 - 400 - typically using an ISO 400 film.<br>

I guess I don't understand your "bracketed at +1" comment, as the Holga (without ND filters) doesn't really give you the ability to bracket. The aperture is actually the same on both settings.</p>

<p>I should have been more specific I didn’t shoot my last roll (the one I bracketed +1 with) on a holga, it was just with a 35mm<br /> <br /> Thanks for all the tips, there going to be really helpful<br>

:)</p>

<p>If you develop your own film, or can provide instructions to the lab, try to avoid over-development. Snow scenes in daylight will be very contrasty. With b&w film this typically calls for slightly less development, anywhere from 10%-25% less than nominal depending on film, developer and technique.</p>

<p>Try a light or medium yellow filter over the lens.</p>

<p>I shot a test roll when I got my Holga to see how fast or slow mine was as I heard they can vary from camera to camera. I use 100 ASA film in bright sunlight (or 400 ASA with an orange filter in front of the lens) and 400 for bright overcast. I develop in hc 110 at 68 degrees F, but add one minute to my normal development time as negatives can be a little flat otherwise. So normal or slightly less development might be the way to go for (contrasty) snow scenes. Also, shadows in snow are filled with blue skylight; orange or red filters may provide more texture and detail in snow covered surfaces.</p>