Shooting baseball in stadium lighting, what's best film or filters?

Discussion in 'Film and Processing' started by j._d._mcgee, Jul 23, 2004.

  1. I have done this before, with digital equipment, but I am going on a
    trip to a MLB game this time and have decided to take all film since
    my film equipment is better. Anyway, I noticed on many of the
    digital shots the color was ok until after the sun went down then
    just lit on stadium lighting the photos started to look a little
    yellowish. I could fix it in PS but it takes some time.

    I was wondering now that I am shooting with film I would like the
    real processed prints to come out with the correct color. What
    filters do I need to use with daylight film? Will tungsten balanced
    film do the trick with no filters? I would prefer if I have to use a
    filter that it has no exposure effect because I need all the speed I
    can get out of my lenses. I would much prefer to use negative film.
    If tungsten works how about the Portra T?

    Thanks, J.D.
     
  2. I haven't tried everything out there, but if it were me, I'd probably shoot it on Fuji Press 800, no filter. This film seems to do quite well in mixed color lighting. I buy it 20 rolls at a time out of B&H, and use it for all sorts of available light shooting.

    I'm probably over-generalizing here, but in my mind there's no such animal as a 'no exposure effect' color correction filter. They all involve losses, some of them substantial.
     
  3. Thanks, Todd, I have known friends that have used the Fujipress 800 so I'm sure this would do the trick. For a long time I have almost exclusively used Portra 160VC for anything I consider important and it has never yeilded bad results. Then agian this is different because the stadium poses new lighting that I am not used to shooting in on a regular basis. I have a local pro camera shop that sells single Fujipress 800 cassettes out of those big 20 roll boxes.

    I am going to be shooting during late afternoon sun before the game too so I guess the Fuji wins here agian because it can handle both lighting conditions. I might shoot some stadium shots with my old Mamiya TLR on Portra 160VC or new 100UC, hope they turn out well. The Canon EOS 3 will be the camera of choice during the game of course.

    BTW, Todd, how long did it take to get your 20 roll box from B&H? I use B&H for equipment all the time but have never ordered film from them, their film prices look great. Did you buy the imported, USAW, or USA variety? good results?

    Regards, J.D.
     
  4. I bought the 'imported' the last several iterations, but I didn't see it listed a couple weeks ago. I don't recall the specifics of shipping, but it met my expectations (as B&H always does); they probably quote shipping times on the site. Beware their Jewish 'work week' and holidays (e.g. they're likely closed now, Friday afternoon).
     
  5. i'd go for fuji provia 100 and 400. you can push the 400 up to 800 and still make fantastic shots.
     
  6. Most sports stadiums use metal halide lights that approximate daylight so don't worry about tungsten filters. Most of them don't exactly match daylight so If you shoot slide film, you will need to experiment and use CC filters. If you use color negative film, small color balance differences can easily be corrected so you can forget about filters entirely. Here is a shot on Kodak 800 speed film.
    008xez-18914784.jpg
     
  7. Colors didn't look right.
    008xrg-18920184.jpg
     
  8. Andre,

    Must be the display on my laptop--the original looks better on my computer.
     

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