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Sekonic L-358


ric1

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<p>Hi,</p>

<p>How do I set up the L-358 for fps please? I have followed the manual but where f/s should appear on the led display I only get an 'm' or an 's' then it cycles round again.</p>

<p>There are also micro switches in the back of the meter, what is the default setting for these please or is there a certain setting which will give me fps?</p>

<p>I have posted on this topic before but cannot find a 'my previous posts' tab to get back there.</p>

<p>Many thanks,</p>

<p>Ric</p>

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<p>Do you have the full manual? http://www.sekonic.com/downloads/l-358_english.pdf<br /> The S or M just means that you have adjusted the T shutter speed so slow to shift into Seconds or Minutes (page 3). When not showing S or M, it means the regular 1/seconds value.<br /> In that same T mode, adjust the shutter speed very fast, past 1/8000 second, and it will shift into fps mode.<br /> Manual page 14, #2 there.<br>

Switches page 8, but they are not for fps.</p>

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<p>Hi Ric,<br>

If you're still shooting with your Bolex then the fps settings on the Sekonic meter are likely to be the wrong shutter speed for your camera, as we discussed earlier. Your original thread dates from March of this year, and if you go to your workspace on Photonet you can get to the thread. Good luck!</p>

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<p>Thanks guys,</p>

<p>Finally got the Sekonic to f/s mode but the read-out was nuts compared to my Gossen 6 - guess I was born an analogue boy! I will stick to the Gossen and put up with the teeny fps ring, it actually serves me pretty well ;)</p>

<p>Yes, I remember the March post but I was going to use fixed lenses at some point, so the zoom lens light limitation wouldn't apply. </p>

<p>What is the best, recommended light meter for cine camera usage please. The Gossen is brilliant but not always that easy to scan in the field due to the squeezed fps values in the middle of the dial.</p>

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<p>Even with primes, your Bolex still has a narrower shutter angle than the common industry standard of 180 degrees. This means that your shutter speed is faster than a given FPS rate would be calibrated for on most light meters. So you will still need to compensate for this by setting a lower ASA for a given frame rate--probably 1/3 to 1/2 stop should do it.</p>
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