Screw-in hood for 62mm Polarizer on 20mm 2.8 AIS

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by ray_dicecca, Sep 23, 2011.

  1. I am looking for a screw-in Nikon hood to attach to my 62mm Nikon polarizer for use on a 20mm 2.8 AIS lens and was wondering if such a hood exists. I did a search and could not find anything. I do have the HN-26 screw-in hood but obviously get some vignetting on the 20 as it's designed for 35mm.
    I recently purchased the HK-14 hood to use on the 20 sans polarizer.
    Thanks for the help!
  2. Doesn`t the HK-14 leave free space to attach a filter inside?
    Anyway, if your polarizer is a "normal" design, there will be very little space to shade without vignetting, I think it isn`t worth it. But if you want it for protection, you can use a step-up ring... no, it doesn`t make sense, IMHO. I`d forget it.
  3. Ray, it is unfortunate that Nikon did not design a lens hood to suit their 52mm, 62mm, 72mm and 77mm step-up type polarising filters for when they are used on wide angle lenses such as the 18mm, 20mm, 24mm and 28mm lens.
    The attachment size to their step-up polarising filters (52mm is 60 x 0.5mm; 62mm is 73? x 0.75mm?; 72mm is 86 x 1.0mm; 77 is ? x ?) usually means that nothing is available. The question marks indicate that I am not sure of the exact measurements of these particular polarising filters.
    The only exception that I am aware of is the 72mm polarising filter for which the 86mm HN-15 lens hood and screw-in lens cap (18mm f3.5) fits. I use this combination on a Vivitar Series 1 zoom (35-85mm f2.8).
  4. I must admit that I was totally puzzled the first time I tried to attach a 72mm hood to my Nikon polariser, only to have it drop in and out without touching the threads. I've just re-measured the 62mm Nikon Polariser, and the larger thread does indeed appear to be 73mm diameter (Nikon, what on earth were you thinking?). AFAIK, there's no such attachment size as 73mm, but 74mm is a thread size that exists in rare quantities.
    Anyway, rather than waste your time trying to find a hood to fit, the easiest solution would be to simulate the Nikon polariser design by fitting a standard polariser to a standard step-up ring and then fitting a standard hood to the polariser. You can get a 62-72 step-up ring quite readily and fit one of those cheap rubber wideangle hoods to a normal 72mm polariser. This gives you the same freedom from vignetting as the Nikon design, plus you can use one of the newer generation of slimline multicoated polariser filters as well. See below for a picture of a similar arrangement using a 67mm polariser.
  5. In any case, I think you are going to have trouble fitting a hood without vignetting on a 20mm f/2.8 lens on top of a polarizer, even a special thin one--though those often have no front threads at all .
    My [Hn-14] 20mm f/4 lens hood is so wide that it really isn't all that functional for shading the lens front, anyhow. Ditto for my Nikon hood [HN-3] for the PC-Nikkor 35mm f/2.8.
    Not least, a hood further tends to complicate the twisting adjustment of a polarizer.
  6. Here's an actual example of the 20mm hood [HN-14] on a 20mm f/4 lens with a polarizer on. Either the hood alone or the polarizer alone worked, but not together.
  7. Out of curiosity I have just tested the step-up ring method.
    Previously, I have checked that only the "normal" polarizer is at the limit of vignetting (a 62mm B+W with front thread). Any kind of hood will be then useless, I think. You have to use an "ultra wide trumpet type" one causing vignetting with its mount, with a very little profit.
    I`m not able to find my HN-14, so I cannot test it with the 62mm B+W slim line polarizer, but given that is half the thickness of my "normal" B+W threaded versions, I guess it should work (maybe with a very little vignetting, if so).
    I then attached a 62>72 step up ring, and same with a 72mm polarizer. There is a very slightly deeper margin that let you to use that wide angle rubber hoods that Rodeo Joe mentions (mine is an old Hama). No vignetting at all.
    My 72mm B+W slim line filters doesn`t have front threads.
  8. Update: I have tested another two rubber hoods with the 62>72 step-up and the "normal" polarizer, and them both cause irregular vignetting (the rubber is of poor manufacturing, being slightly bent to one side). The rubber is simply too long. I think they all are "generic" items blistered under the "Hama" brand, and from different ages.
    If you decide to go this way, I`d suggest to check it before buying.
  9. Search for "62mm wide angle metal hood" at eBay. It will work well - better than the Nikons.
    Personally I use 52-62-72 to 77mm step-up rings so I don't need to clutter with too many sizes of filters, caps, hoods...
  10. The HN-14 like the 20mm f/4 lens is, surprisingly, a 52mm screw thread, so it won't work on the larger, later 20mm.
  11. Hi Folks, thanks so much for the detailed responses. Sounds like a finding an appropriate hood for the polarizer might be a gamble and a pain with the vignetting.
    What I decided to do is just use the polarizer by itself on the 20 and the HK-14 lens hood attached to a Hoya skylight on the 20 (hopefully, it won't vignette being out more in front of the lens). Here is my set up:
    Thanks again!
  12. Jose, did you try rolling the vignetting rubber hoods partly back?
    I think the main problem here is that by the time any round screw-fitting hood is made shallow enough to accomodate the extra thickness of a filter, it's all but useless as a hood! The best solution I can think of would be a petal-style hood that clamps over the outside diameter of the lens (like the HK-14 ....but better). Then a polariser could perhaps be fitted inside the hood and, once fitted, the hood wouldn't rotate with the filter and Ray would be a happy camper. Someone ought to make such a hood; I'm sure they'd sell a load.
    If you're into DIY Ray, you could probably make a simple hood out of thin aluminium sheet or even black crafting card. You just need to construct an open rectangular box with a 62mm diameter hole cut in the bottom. Clamp your home-made hood to the lens using your polar filter and Bingo!
  13. The border or the rubber is too thick, rolling it back will take away a lot of hood, making it useless, I think (I don`t have my gear here). It can be shaved, though.
    I rarely use my 20/2.8AiS, never with hood (as seen in Ray`s photo, the hood is a clunk piece... I hate it as much the one on the 28-105), and never with the polarizer. In fact, I think I have never used it since the release of the D200, maybe one or two times (if so) for testing.

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