scratched negatives from a M6TTL

I just got some photos back from processing and was looking at the negs with a loupe and noticed faint scratches that run the length of the film on the non-emulsion (shiny) side. I dug out all my negs I've taken with this M6TTL and nearly all of them have these scratches! I've been to at least five different developers since getting this camera several months ago, so doubtful that the scratches are their fault. The scratches don't show on the prints, but I don't have anything printed larger than 5x7. I looked at my old Nikon negs and have no such scratches.

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Are these scratches a big deal? I looked at the Leica <a href="http://www.leica-camera.com/imperia/md/content/pdf/service/2.pdf">repair form</a> and there is a check box for "scratches on film" which makes me think this is a known problem. I <u>really</u> don't want to send it to NJ, but hey, that's why I forked out the $$ for the warranty. Thanks for any info/advice.

Most likely these faint

scratches ARE from the lab. If

labs use something other than a

dip-and-dunk processor, the

film runs back through the

cassette felt and then through

the machine's rollers. Dip and

dunk processors hang the film

and lower it into the chemistry

(they have other quirks, but

are more stable than the 1-hour

lab Fujitsu-style machines).

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It is not a big deal, but labs tend

to get lax about cleaning their

machines until there IS a

problem and enough people

complain. If the scratches were

from the camera, most likely

the scratches would be slightly

erratic (from the advance

motion). Check the film

passage in the M6 just to make

sure, there would be something

you could see if the problem

was with the camera. I doubt

there's any need to send it to

NJ.

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Hope this helps...Carlin

I had this problem some while ago.

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I confirmed it was not the camera by putting a full new film through

the camera and taking it out immediately. No scratches. I then knew

it was the lab. The cost is only one wasted film but it confirmed the

source of the problem.

"roller transport" development very often scratches the neg.s in

my experience. It may be that it's your camera - try Tony's

eminently sensible suggestion - but I take my films to a pro-lab

who will dev. them "dip and dunk" style - that way you don't get

the same degree of film damage (hopefully...)

Ken,

Since I am working with Nikon film scanner (LS4000) which is highly

sensitive to scratches (unless you use their software that reduces

micro-texture) I become aware of scratch causes. I learned that the

main one is dust on the film cartrage before you give it to the lab.

any trace of dust will result in some scratches. since I started

keeping films in their boxes even after shooting, and using plastic

air blower to remove any residuals of dust, scratches reduced

dramatically. try it.

)

Ken, You didn't indicate if the scratches are in the same position on

the film. Have a look then refer to some of the good advice persented

to you. Additionally, I always use "dip and dunk" processing and have

never had a damaged negative. It's available at labs that cater to

professionals and might cost a bit more, but well worth it. Good

luck.

I run a photo lab and scratches on the 'shiny' side aren't a problem.

Just use nose grease! yes that sounds disgusting. it's a really old

trick.

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First wear a clean cotton glove

next rub a finger across your nostril or brow.

rub the finger across the scratch mark very gently

wipe the neg for dust.

now you should find the scratch has disappeared from any print.

the grease difuses the light transmitted through it.

Back in the middle-production years of the M6 classic there was a

rash of bodies with badly-polished pressure-plates that scratched the

back side of the film. Early R8 cameras had a plastic guide next to

the pressure-plate that wore down over time and scratched the

backside of the film. Those may be reasons why Leica's service

department has a check-box for "scratches on film". I find that my

R7's and R6/6.2 tend to place fine scratches on the back of the film

unless I keep the pressure-plates scrupulously clean. I have not

determined why this is so, except that like Ken I've never

encountered it with Nikons or my Leicaflex SL. One reason may be

that the latter have stainless rollers next to the pressure-plate

whereas the R bodies have a fixed plastic guide that the film rubs

across, and the M bodies have neither roller nor plastic guide, the

film just rubs across the bevelled edge of the pressure plate.

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In any case, Ken, I would *strongly* suspect the camera, not the lab

because as you said, you've used more than one. I would start by

cleaning the pressure-plate with a cotton swab moistened with

alcohol, then run a roll of outdated film through it and without

rewinding, open the camera up and pull out the film and inspect it.

If there are no scratches, hand-wind the film back into the cassette

and repeat the test, but this time rewind the film. I've found by

doing this that at least with R bodies the scratches are inflicted

during rewinding, especially if I do it very quickly.

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If you're still getting scratches, send the un-processed test roll

back to Leica along with the camera...so you won't get the same

response you got from all the above posts, blaming the lab.

Actually there is a way to tell whether it is the lab or the camera.

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If the scratch runs end to end then it is the Lab's fault or the

velvet on the film cassette is contaminated.

If the scratch starts just before the first frame and finishes 1 or 2

inches from the end then it is the camera, and not necessarily the

back plate check all around the spool end too

I have mentioned this same advice in another thread above but though

i would write it here as well. Take a roll of film but only use 3/4

of the roll, rewinding it before the last 1/4 has left the canister.

Check the last 1/4 for scratches when the negs come back. Its true

the last 1/4 will be clear making the scratches harder to see but if

the lab is scratching the negs during processing you can still see

the scratch lines if you check under a light. This will determine if

the pressure plate is scratching the negs.

Thanks for all the advice. There was a bit of schmutz on the

pressure plate when I finished my last roll. I cleaned it off, then

ran a roll of drugstore film through, rewound, and pulled the film

out of the cannister to check: no scratches! So it was apparently

either the speck of crud that I cleaned off the pressure plate, the

developers, and/or dirt on the cannister velvet. I had been in the

habit of carrying cannisters sans containers around in my pockets -

won't be doing that any more.