Scanning textured prints

I just setup my new Epson 2450 scanner, with Vuescan and Photoshop

Elements 2.0. I am scanning some old color photos that were printed on

textured paper, and printing them on an inkjet.

 

The texture of the original paper is clearly visible on the finished prints. Is

there a fix for this, either in Vuescan or Photoshop Elements?

While it's not a fix...

 

When I used to scan large amounts of pebble-finish portrait shots for a printing company, we used to use a big stack of paper to sit on the back of the photo while it was being scanned. This pressed the photo as flat as possible to the glass, in an attempt to reduce the inevitable reflections off the texture.

 

It didn't remove all the texture & reflections, it did make a noticeable improvement.

 

Good luck.

Flatbed scanners have a light source not 90 degrees to the print; often the angle is sort of grazing; ie 45 degrees; etc. This non 90 degrees lighting makes any micro bumps really jump out.<BR><BR>The grazing angle of the flatbed's light source; the scan bar; varies with different models; you might try a friends scanner.<BR><BR>The matte photos from School and wedding photo shoots appear as many "moon craters" when greatly magnified.<BR><BR>What we do is use our digital scanner on our color copier; as a scanner; when a super textured print causes massive problems. The optical source has a REAL long path; such that the scanner doesnt pick up hardly any texture from a print. Our digital copier's scanner appears as a scanner; in the Photoshop scanner area. the downside is that Color copier scanners are not that good for tonal qualities; our unit is only a SIX bit system! YUK ; but the plus side is that it is a 600 dpi scan; and eliminates the "moon crater" effect with oddball jobs.<BR><BR>Making an enlarged copier copy of ones print; and then scanning the color copy; will mask almost all the texture; due to the long optical path of the scanner in the copier. The resultant scan then has the scan lines from the copier; which have greatly different appearance when in different modes; ie map mode; text/photo; etc. Our 2 copiers have about 8 different modes; each will give a different appearance. The color copy & scan will greatly reduce the shadow detail; and highlight detail. You will have to throw in an S shaped curve in Photoshop to get the linearity of the tones correct.<BR><BR>Our digital color copiers scanner is calibrated with a Kodak grey step wedge; and a color CMYK target. Then the machine makes a color copy of the targets. Then the target is placed back on the copiers scanner; and scanned and compared to the Reference targets. The machine then adjusts itself to match the target with its copy. After calibration; the unit scans very well; with true colors. <BR><BR>Very few people calibrate their color copier's digital scanner; thus alot of printers are turning alot of crappy scans; and thus the copiers get massive comments that they are junk when used as scanners.

You may find that 'descreen', 'moire' or 'despeckle' filters can be usde quite successfully, if you get the scan resolution right. I recently had this problem, but using the following technique, the effect vanished:<P>

 

1. Scan at 600 dpi (you may need to experiment here)<br>

2. Run Despeckle filter (I just used Thumbs Plus' built-in one)<br>

3. Blur slightly (just enough to remove any remaining texture edges)<br>

4. Resample down to exactly the size/resolution needed<br>

5. Lightly sharpen.<P>

 

I made a 9x12 out of a 7x5 this way, and in my (and the client's) humble opinion it was as sharp as the original, no texture problems.<P>

 

Your milage may vary of course..

John,

 

You may want to check and see if you have any unsharp masking options selected in Vuescan. I had this problem with my Epson driver on my 2400 scanner and turning it off greatly reduced the textured reproduction.

 

Matt

This thread is old - I hope you get this.

 

When the problem is just surface texture and not that the image is darker on the raised portions of the surface, I have reasonable results by scanning with the print in the "upright" position, then again upside down, one on one layer in Photoshop, the other in a second layer. Rotate the topmost layer as necessary and position it accurately using Blending/Difference, then use Darken for this top layer. Accurate positioning is the biggest problem, it may be that only the most critical portion of the image may be good - at least you'll get that part clean.

 

Don G.

While this is not an answer in total but, why don't you make your scans from the original negatives or the digital files. If you do not have these negatives you probably do not have the right to legally make copies of these prints, unless of course they are just old family photos, but then you should have the negatives right?

I see that you're new here.

 

Your response tothe original question is not responsive. Furthermore, the implication that I, or other posters, have an intent to violate copyright law is uncalled-for.

 

Of course I save my negatives, but most families, including my own, have boxes full of family photos, for which the negatives are long gone.

 

I'm not trying to run off a new photo.netter, but perhaps you should give your posts a bit more consideration, particularly when such posts consist of sarcastically impugning the motives of others.

Don G's solution really helped a lot! It didn't get rid of everything, but the improvement was noticeable.

 

In it, he mentions "using Blending/Difference" after pasting the 2nd scan and lining it up (hint during line-up: go into the "layers" menu and change the opacity of the top layer so that you can see the bottom layer, then make it 100% again). I made sure the top layer was selected, then clicked on "Difference" in blend mode -- the whole screen turned black. So if Don G could explain what that selection does, that might help. HOWEVER, instead of clicking on "difference" I clicked on "Darken" and noticed a difference right away. Then you can close the box "hit "ok" and if you still see some speckle all over you can "move" the top image (make sure the move tool is selected and then just use your arrows). Keep an eye on things like eyes because you might make them too blurry. If you still need to adjust, say, a big area of hair, but don't want to further blur the eyes, use your lasso tool to select the area you want (feather the selection if you need to) and then use the move tool to adjust that area some more -- the eyes (or whatever other areas you DON'T want to further blur) will be left alone. Play around with it on a sample scan so that you can see what is happening. When you're done you can merge the layers. Thanks Don!