Scanning negaties with Canon 4200F as opposed to Nikon Coolscan

I'm well aware that a Coolscan is an order of magnitude better than with the

Canon. My question is for those that have experience with professional output

from scanned negatives, onto RA-4 paper. I have a friend whose mother had

some negatives improperly developed, probably in expired chemicals, and I am

unable to fix them with traditional optical color correction. There's color

crossover that is going to require Photoshop or a master color printer (which

I am not to fix). My problem is, the Nikon Coolscan I normally have access

to, is unavailable for two weeks. For prints that are only going to be blown

up to 5x7 (maybe one at 8x10), is the streakiness of an amateur scanner like

the Canon going to be evident in a lustre print output at 250 dpi in 5x7 size,

or does it do a good-enough job for this sort of application? Also, any

tricks for "hiding" the slightly objectionable "scan lines" that show up with

amateur scanners that have film adapters of this sort?

 

Regards,

 

~Karl

fix the development mistake! if they were under bleached/underfixed thats the best bet.

I believe that the problem is primarily the underdevelopment. They were developed almost five months ago, so I'm afraid the damage is done and uncorrectable chemically. I do have access to my own C-41 chemistry, so I could go back and manually rewash, bleach, fix and stabilize them, if you really think that'll do any good. I have no way of testing though if there's any retained silver or any retained silver halides. To my eye, it looks as if they film has been properly fixed at least. The negatives are pretty normal ruddy orange cast, and there's good transparancy through them, but the edge markings are pretty pale, as are the images on the film.

The Canon should be plenty for your purposes.

My Epson 4870 does not leave streaks.

 

Yes I can make OK 5x7 from scanning 35mm. Crop one frame, scan at 4800. Mine takes 6 minutes.

 

If you have crossover, use the curve function. Instead of RGB, use the offending channel, say red, and move the end points. You can get more red in the highlites and less in the shadows by changing the slope of the line compared to the other two. Do not curve the line. Just change the slope.

Thanks for the responses gents. One more question: I was getting decent scans from it yesterday, but I was getting killer Newton's rings. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't seem to get the film to lay flat enough to avoid them. I *can* retouch them out as there are only 2-3 moderately sized ones per frame I do, but I'd rather get the actual information in the scan instead of having a bunch of cloned fakery that doesn't represent the reality of the image. Any tips for minimizing this phenomenon? I guess I'm spoiled from that Nikon scanner.