Scanning B&W Negatives For The Web.

<p>Hi there folks,<br>

I have just bought an Epson 4490 for scanning 35mm and 6x7 B&W negatives for uploading onto websites like P.N and APUG etc. I have made my first negative scan which looks a rather muddy compared to the actual silver halide paper enlargement.<br>

Could someone advise me (A dummies guide) on how to get a good scan?</p><div></div>

<p>I use a V500, so we're in the same ballpark. I use the EpsonScan software. For 35mm, I scan at 3200dpi/ MF at 2400. I save in tiff format. I don't have the scanning software do any of the automated settings. I do all alterations in PS Elements. I have noticed that some films scan better than others. For example, I really like HP5+ but have never been really pleased by how it scans. If you want to look at my portfolio, the first several folders were all scanned using the V500. If you have any specific questions, I may be able to be of further help. JR</p>

<p>Thanks Jeremy, the image actually is from a HP5 Plus negative. I only bought the scanner last week and I don`t know how to use the software properly hence my question.<br />I opened up the image in PS Elements 3 and clicked on the `<em>Smart Autofix</em>` tab or what ever it`s called.</p>

<p>I'm not a fan of the Epsons, so I'll not give any comments on them.</p>

<p>Try this site for some insights on scanning: <a href="http://www.scantips.com/">http://www.scantips.com/</a></p>

 

<p >I subscribe to the point of view that what you want is to get the most information out of a scan, then manipulate it in your image editing software to get what you want. Use the histogram; make sure you don't blow the highlights or shadows. Try and get good area under the curve, i.e. good distribution across the histogram, and not just the composite histogram but each primary color as well. Avoid high peaks as much as possible. The horizontal axis is the numerical values that a pixel (i.e. color) can have, for 8 bit it would be 0 - 255, no vlaue to max. The vertical axis is the number of pixels at a given value. So, if you have a high peak, you have a lot of pixels of that color. This means not much color graduation and contrast around that peak. A more distributed histogram means more color graduation and contrast. Over simplified, but basically what it means.</p>

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<p >Don’t worry too much about what the file looks like in the scanning app, go by the histogram. </p>

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<p >Unfortunately there is a big learning curve when it comes to scanning. And, I’d suggest using c-41 based B&W so you can take advantage of dust removal. Or, your other option I think I wet mounting. </p>

 

<p>Matt is right about C-41 based films. I was blown away the first time I scanned my XP-2 films. Actually, everything he said sounds good. JR</p>

<p>As others have mentioned, there is a considerable learning curve associated with scanning. Expecting good scans with default settings is a little like expecting high-quality darkroom prints from any negative on Grade 2 paper with a 10-second exposure -- it's nice when it happens, but it rarely works out that way.</p>

<p>Scantips.com is actually a pretty good introduction to scanning and the post-scan "workflow". Most of the work in getting your images to look their best will happen in PS Elements rather than in the scanner software. The Curves / Levels tools and sharpening will be key. Good luck!</p>