RZ67 ProIID - 50mm ULD

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by baard_lunde, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. Hi Mamiya-folks.
    I have used the older 50mm W lens. As I am using digital back now, I needed a better lens and bought the ULD-version. BUT how do I use this lens? I cannot really see any difference by rotating the "Floating element". Can anyone tell me how this works?

  2. Is this the lens you are refering to?
  3. Well, I am not Baard Lunde, but this is not the lens he is referring to.<p>
    This is the pre-ULD-version.<p>
    The ULD lens has a ring to adjust the floating element inside the lens.<p>
    In a previous thread that topic has been discussed. Have a look at http://www.photo.net/
    Cheers, Zwicko
  4. As Stefan told me, it is the new ULD-version I am talking about.

    The thread you referred to Stefan did not answer my question about the floating element. How do I set the focus-ring, when I cannot see any difference through the viewfinder? What will happen when it is set wrong?

  5. I have used a macro lens on a RB with a floating element. You first would focus normally with the camera like any other lens. Then look to see the distance indicated (on the camera) and then set the floating element to match that same distance. Supposedly the floating element will add corrections to the edges of the photograph, so check for differences there.
  6. I just tested my 50mm ULD with my Phase One digital back. Focused on a piece of paper aprox 1 meter from the camera, setting the floating element on 0.9 meter and infinity to see what came out. I attached two jpgs showing the enormous difference in corner focus. I could not really see any clear differences in the center of the pictures.
  7. Here is the wrong use of floating element.
  8. Baard, The ULD version of the 50mm lens was Mamiya's response to the criticism that the original 50mm lens received. It has a terrible reputation for distortion towards the edges. Luckily Mamiya did an excellent job with the ULD version and correctly set it produces, stunning shots almost totally free from distortion. It's almost impossible to see the effect through the view finder but definitely shows up on large prints.

    By the way Darren is correct in how the floating element is used.
  9. Thanks for the responds.
    Do I turn the "floating lens" ring accordingly to what the diagram (on the cameras' right side) says?

    Also, do you guys have any ideas how to test the quality for both lenses, the old 50mm and the new ULD? Just to see how big difference there is.
  10. >>> Thanks for the responds. Do I turn the "floating lens" ring accordingly to what the
    diagram (on the cameras' right side) says? <<<

    Yes, that is the technically correct thing to do. But in practice, just *estimate* the distance to
    the subject with your own eyes, and set the ring accordingly. When subjects are close, your
    estimates will be more accurate as is the scale on then ring. Far distance subjects just
    require a "best guess" as the ring scale at such distances is just an estimate anyway.
  11. Hello,
    I have just stumbled upon this thread and started wondering if it is possible to get the perfect "floating element sharpness" on both far and close objects at the same time. Let's say that I want to include some close object, a stone for instance at 2 meters, but I also want the sharpness at infinity which is obviously much further. How do you set the floating element then to account for such an extreeme distance difference?

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