erik_hasty Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 After using my Rollei TLR for shooting everything outdoors (landscapes/people), I am considering shooting some indoors and wanted to know if anyone shoots a TLR with a flash and what their setup consist of. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_ashton Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 Erik, I use my Nikon SB-28 with my Rollei T. Using the flash unit's "A" setting and a fixed aperture setting of, say, f8, I get repeatable results similar to what you might expect from a Vivitar 283 or similar. You will also need a flash bracket and cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffmead Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 I use a Metz hammerhead (45CT-4) with my Rolleiflex, but almost always on a tripod. I use the bar which comes with the Metz gun, to which I have attached (permanently) a tripod quick-release plate. You can configure it with the gun to the right of the camera (where it interferes a bit with wind-on) or (as I have) on the left (where it interferes, but less, with focussing). I find it almost impossible to hand-hold this set-up successfully, but then I would use 35mm. for that kind of work Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry_bain1 Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 You didn't mention which Rollei TLR you are using. I use a Rolleicord V, which conveniently has the wind and focus on the same (right) side. I use a Vivitar 283 with the Vivitar bracket and pistol grip with cable release (which is set up on the left side). It works well, except for bounce flash, where I always end up flashing myself in the face. It seems to me that it would be harder to use a handle mount flash with the Rollieflexes, since they have the focus knob on the left side, but numerous photojournalists used to be able to pull this off with no problems (before they switched to 35mm). I saw one guy who did it by mounting the flash handle close enough to the camera so he could focus with his fingertips, while the rest of his hand was still wrapped around the flash handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolan woodbury Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 All too common of a problem Perry, but there are a couple of ways around it. Erik, I use a couple of Sunpak units for portable flash; a 555 and a 521 with the thyristor bounce flash attachment and the Sunpak L-bracket. This bracket is groved, so the nut (and camera) can be slid away from the handle of the flash. I'd rather have a higher quality Metz, but the Sunpak has proven to be pretty reliable and durable. I still carry both, just to be sure. You can find a slew of em' on eBay, or search the B&H catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_chuah Posted November 20, 2000 Share Posted November 20, 2000 Erik, I mount my TLRs on a Stroboframe Quickflip 120 when I need to shoot with flash. My Vivitar or Sunpak goes on top of the bracket directly over the lens. You need a accessory hotshoe with a sync cord that has a tripod bush for attaching to the bracket. Although you can attach your Rollei TLR directly to the base of the bracket, I would strongly advise you to use the Rolleifix quick release plate so that its more secure and would not put any stress on the weak points of the camera. The Rolleifix also allows you to detach/attach your camera quickly for film change. A cheaper way is to get a Japanese made 6x6 aluminium L-bracket. Its light and strong. I have used it for quite a while before making the switch to Stroboframe. The base of the bracket is big enough to accomodate all the "legs" of the Rollei. This way, the camera stays secure and no stress is placed on any single point. However, if you want to rest the camera during a break, you can't sit the setup upright. Unlike the Stroboframe(Quickflip 120) which does nicely. Moreover, the advantage of using a Stroboframe is that, the flash is mounted directly over the lens which throws the shadows directly behind the subjects. There is less likelihood to get redeye effect with the flash high up. Recently, I have come across a small Nissin hammerhead flash. This flash allows you to attach the camera closer to the handle so that your fingers can reach the focusing knob. It looks very light and not bulky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhat Posted November 21, 2000 Share Posted November 21, 2000 I once attached a Vivitar 283 to my 3.5F and got good results. I used a flash bracket found at a used camera store. It'was just a fun weekend experiment. The 283 is a good flash to use on manual cameras with it's color coded auto distance range settings. It's a breeze, the only trouble is remembering to reset it according to the new distance with each new shot! The flash combine with the Rollei is very bulky for my situations where I needed an on camera flash... I use my Nikon F4 for those situati Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_chuah Posted November 21, 2000 Share Posted November 21, 2000 Hi Nhat, The 283 or 285 does not require you to make constant readjustment unless you are moving out of the flash range all the time. Set it to one color mode that you think you will work within the displayed range ,and leave the rest to the auto sensor. Its a good flash to use, I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvin_chao Posted November 22, 2000 Share Posted November 22, 2000 I have used a Vivitar 285 and 283 with a Rolleiflex 2.8F with good results. The flash was in the hotshoe of a L-bracket (handle on the left). The camera was close enough to the handle to allow focusing with the left hand. The right hand cradled the camera with my thumb and index finger working the shutter speed and aperture dials. Quite easy to work with. But!!!!!!!!!!! I found that the PC cord did not seem to make good contact with the sync socket even though the PC cord seemed firmly seated in socket. My only indication that the cord was not making good contact was the lack of flash when I released the shutter. Good thing that my hair is thin and buzzed to stuble otherwise I would have been tearing at it. The sync socket looks to be in perfect shape having no sign of damage. This has been a problem with more than one PC cord. Has any one else had this be a problem??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_chuah Posted November 23, 2000 Share Posted November 23, 2000 Kelvin, been through that beaten path many times. Condition of sync cord varies from piece to piece. Because its cheap, I kept buying till I found a good one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uwe_mader2 Posted November 24, 2000 Share Posted November 24, 2000 I have a Rolleicord V and have a flash bracket that attaches to the viewing lens resulting in the flash being at a 45 degree angle. I use a small Rollei E15B flash, using the distance guide on the back to set the aperature. This seems to work fine and permits me to quickly set up for flash as compared to mounting the flash onto a regular, bottom mounting bracket. The bracket is bayonet 1 and has Sawyer stamped into it. It is chrome plated and rather nicely made. I have seen similiar ones on the odd occasion. Mine cost $25 Canadian. So, if you have a Rolleicord or a bayonet 1 Rolleiflex you might want to see about getting one of these. Of course if you need a very powerful flash then this set-up could become unwieldy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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