Rodinal Special development times, delta 100, neopan 400

Hello there! I have just rec'd an order of rodinal special and as I

see on e few charts that I have found on the net the noted time for

delta 100 is 3 mins. Isn't that a little short? Before I start a

gammet of testing I thought maybe someone out there may have already

done the same. I am processing portrait material....or will be in

the furture as I am looking for fine grain and good sharpness.

During weddings I am forced to use 400 (neopan) for candid ability

unfortunately the grain POPS out and even with great exposure I have

couples commenting about the grain at 11x14 or sometimes even less.

Love delta 100 and trying Acros as the grain is the finest (although

higher contrast) but looking to work on my selection of developers.

Have used ID-11 and like it best so far....but getting expensive and

unavail in big boxes now....and powers never are great fun. I also

have rodinal but I understand that higher ISO and rodinal tends to

bring out the grain. What about 1:100? Using 1:50 at present. Any

suggestions gladly welcomed. Using mostly 35mm but some 120 too.

Thanks much!

About Rodinal at higher dilutions: 1+100 take care of the minimum volum of the concentrate/film. Officially 10ml/film (135-36 or 120 rolfilm - 1000 ml tank). Sharpness is very high and you will get some staining effects.

 

About Across and Delta: Try the (liquid) SPUR developers from Germany (SLD (push), HRX-2 (pull) or SD2525), if you do not want to hussle with 5Ltr. packs ID11 or Xtol. Acros and SLD will bring full iso 100 and with a minimum of grain. Even better as ID11 on iso 80.

 

About Rodinal special: I never found this developer very special and indeed 3 minutes developing time is too short for reproducible results.

 

Info about SPUR: http://spur-photo.de http://8x11film.com http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl

 

For the US I think JandC is doing something with them.

 

Best regards,

 

Robert

Must you use Rodinal for this application? I feel that D-76 at 1:1 or Microdol-X at 1:3 would be better. I've gotten very nice tonality and sharpness with sufficiently fine grain with Microdol-X 1:3 with Delta 100. Personally I would use HP-5 for your application though, and develop, again, in Microdol-X 1:3.

Rob is correct: Delta 100 and Acros 100 developed in Microdol-X 1:3 at 75 degrees for 17-18 minutes turns out beautiful with wonderful tonality and acutance!

Rodinal Special is the same as Agfa Studional as far as developing times go. Go to

www.digitaltruth.com and look up Studional for a long list of deveoloping times for many

films.

I can't help you much with Rodinal Special, but it is an entirely different thing from Rodinal. Agfa labels it as a fine grain developer. There are a number of folks out there on this forum and a couple of others who swear by Rodinal. I'm not one of them. It is a good developer for what it is. It works well with slow to medium speed films. It is eminently useable with fast medium and large format film. If you are looking to minimize grain with 35mm films, as we say here in the Big Apple - fugetaboutit. If you like ID-11 and can't find it, then just use D-76. They are virtually identical. I buy whichever is cheaper when I stock up and use them interchangeably.

 

Getting a good 11x14 print from 35mm is a stretch, no matter what you do. Under the best of circumstances, and that means a tripod and controlled lighting, you can get away with it once in a while. IF, and that's a big if, you get a good one from a hand held shot consider yourself blessed. Why do you think you see, or at least used to see before the consuming public got used to sub-par results, so many wedding photographers working in medium format?

Dear Gloria,

 

If you want to minimize grain, in general, use the minimum dilution you can. If you like ID-11, look for D-76 as they are the same developer. While you probably know this, Rodinal and Rodinal Special are two different developers. The Times for Rodnal Special look particlarly short to me (you are right about the 3-1/2 minutes!). AgfaPhoto also reports that the "normal" contrast for their rated times is 0.65. At first blush, this would seem a bit high for portraits. Don't be late with your stop bath.<g> Try Iflotec DDX if you like liquid developers.

 

I have actively compared Acros 100, Delta100 and TMX. While I'm sure you can measure the differences in granularity, I can't see it in the prints (or in a grain focuser). If you love Delta, the differences between it and Acros 100 are small. BTW: You should have no trouble generating a normal contrast negative with Acros.

Hey there! Developed my first roll of delta 100 in rodinal special and results are nice! Used 3.5 minutes at 20.c. Boy that went against all I know! I cannot compare it to rodinal but so far so good. I have 3 rolls of portraiture sitting here and I am pondering to try rod.special out on these.....what do you think? All studio as my test was. Am I risking too much? Maybe I will develop one roll and see how it goes. Please give me your thoughts!

As another mentioned earlier see: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

About Rodinal at higher dilutions: 1+100 take care of the minimum volum of the concentrate/film. Officially 10ml/film (135-36 or 120 rolfilm - 1000 ml tank). Sharpness is very high and you will get some staining effects.

 

About Across and Delta: Try the (liquid) SPUR developers from Germany (SLD (push), HRX-2 (pull) or SD2525), if you do not want to hussle with 5Ltr. packs ID11 or Xtol. Acros and SLD will bring full iso 100 and with a minimum of grain. Even better as ID11 on iso 80.

 

About Rodinal special: I never found this developer very special and indeed 3 minutes developing time is too short for reproducible results.

 

Info about SPUR: SPUR DOMAIN ERROR Fotohuis RoVo

 

For the US I think JandC is doing something with them.

 

Best regards,

 

Robert

 

What is the minum concentrate of Studional to develop 1 single roll of 135 film? Thank you!

Studional isn't designed for high dilution and single use. The concentrate is diluted 1+15 and reused for up to 12 films per litre. With an extension to the time for additional films.

 

The data sheet is here, and makes it clear that you're supposed to reuse the diluted developer - much like D-76.

Studional isn't designed for high dilution and single use. The concentrate is diluted 1+15 and reused for up to 12 films per litre. With an extension to the time for additional films.

 

The data sheet is here, and makes it clear that you're supposed to reuse the diluted developer - much like D-76.

How much minimum concentrate for 1 single 135 film please?

Studional isn't designed for high dilution and single use. The concentrate is diluted 1+15 and reused for up to 12 films per litre. With an extension to the time for additional films.

 

The data sheet is here, and makes it clear that you're supposed to reuse the diluted developer - much like D-76.

Shall I use 20 ml of concentrate + 300 ml of water or is 30 ml of concentrate with 450 ml of water for 1 roll.

 

The data sheet doesn’t give minimum concentrate

https://labo-argentique.com/agfa-r09-studio-1l-former-name-studional.html

The data sheet doesn’t give minimum concentrate

No, it doesn't.

As explained, Studional was never designed to be a one-shot developer. You dilute it 1+15 and then use the diluted solution to develop up to 12 films/litre.

 

The working link I gave above downloads a PDF of the data sheet.

 

If you must use it as a one shot developer, then it would appear that 7 to 10ml of developer should be sufficient for one film, but you're entirely on your own in determining the development time.

What calculation did you make to obtain 7-10 ml of developer for one film?

 

(snip)

 

The data sheet is here, and makes it clear that you're supposed to reuse the diluted developer - much like D-76.

 

You are also supposed to replenish D-76.

 

At rated capacity, it is 250ml stock, or 500ml at 1:1, for a 135-36 roll.

(I don't remember knowing this when I used to use it.)

 

for Studional, if it is 12 rolls/litre, then it is 3 rolls/250ml, which isn't so bad.

Probably you should increase the time for later rolls, too.

You are also supposed to replenish D-76.

 

At rated capacity, it is 250ml stock, or 500ml at 1:1, for a 135-36 roll.

(I don't remember knowing this when I used to use it.)

 

for Studional, if it is 12 rolls/litre, then it is 3 rolls/250ml, which isn't so bad.

Probably you should increase the time for later rolls, too.

 

I defintively miss something.

 

The dilution recommanded for 1 roll 135 is 1+15, 4 minutes. YES!

 

I have 1 liter concentrate. My question is: to cover the film in a Jobo tank, you need 300ml minimum. That means 20ml of concentrate + 300ml of water, for 1 roll.

 

This means that I can develop 50 films with 1 liter (50x20ml). Correct?

 

With your replies guys, I am lost!

It is usual to give capacity after dilution, so I believe above is says 12/liter after dilution.

 

But yes, if you use it one-shot, then 50 per liter of concentrate.

 

It looks like R09 spezial is a similar formula, which comes in 120ml bottles.

It is usual to give capacity after dilution, so I believe above is says 12/liter after dilution.

 

But yes, if you use it one-shot, then 50 per liter of concentrate.

 

It looks like R09 spezial is a similar formula, which comes in 120ml bottles.

 

Yes it is R09 special, the new name.

 

Thank you all

At 20ml each, only six rolls for 120ml, which seems to be about USD 9.00/bottle.

 

HC-110 is about USD 28.00 for a 1L bottle, and the usual dilution B is 1:31.

You can do a 135-36 roll in 250ml, for 128 rolls/bottle, closer to 100 if you use 300ml/roll.

 

How much for a 1L bottle of R09 spezial?

Just get some HC-110 and make things easy.

 

Studional, or whatever it calls itself, is not meant to be used one-shot at more than 1:15 dilution. So as I said, if you want to use it that way, it's entirely at your own risk and your own guess at times and dilutions. RTFM.

Just get some HC-110 and make things easy.

 

Studional, or whatever it calls itself, is not meant to be used one-shot at more than 1:15 dilution. So as I said, if you want to use it that way, it's entirely at your own risk and your own guess at times and dilutions. RTFM.

 

At $1.50/roll, it is a little expensive, but not unaffordable.

 

personally, I can usually save up a few rolls to do at once, but maybe not the OP.

 

I have a 10ml graduated cylinder, which isn't so bad for measuring HC-110, but I usually mix up

about 1L at a time. A pipette would probably be more accurate.