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Request your recommended 'noob-to-digital-&-scanning' link


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<p>Yes I am a total newbie to film scanning and don't know an awful lot about digital stuff in general.</p>

<p>Sure I could Google and spend 2 weeks reading rubbish websites thinking they are good...that's why I am asking for your recommendations as hopefully you will know what is good info and what is not.</p>

<p>I'm looking for top to toe website that puts all this digital stuff into some kind of sensible order so I know what to to and why I'm doing it and how I can tell I'm doing it right.</p>

<p>I'm looking for more than tips or technique as these seem to indicate a basic understanding of the whole operation. Its the whole digital operation I'm needing to find out about and if its also including the V700 then all the better.</p>

<p>I've seen scantips.com recommended, anymore sites I should know about?</p>

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<p>I have never really seen one.<br /> MAybe Norman Koren might have a lot of good info on it.<br /> Here are sections on scanning.<br /> http://www.normankoren.com/scanners.html<br /> http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints2.html<br>

Site map<br>

http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html<br>

If I might add, just figure out how big you want to print, what rez to print at,<br /> IE printing on a lightjet at 204 dpi is good, inkjet, from 200-300 dpi or there abouts.<br /> You want enough native rez to get you to that print size without having to resize the digital image.<br /> IE if you shoot 35mm film and scan at 3600 dpi and print on a lightjet at 204 dpi the max you could enlarge is 16" x 24".</p>

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<p>Look up Neil Currie's website and see what he has to say about scaling and scanning and printing. Neil's day job is as a math teacher; he's presented the best, concise, explanation of choosing those ratios and why that I've seen.</p>

<p>I use a V700. I scan in at no less than 600 DPI, and save the files to TIF. From there, I make the edits and adjustments that I desire. When scanning in films, keep in mind that the monitors on default resolutions will often be set for a white definition near 6k Kelvin. The films will appear normal under conditions approaching 5600K. </p>

<p>While not comprehensive, if you can generally point yourself in that direction, you will find that you have generous margins to work with. Scanning at 1200 DPI to TIF usually takes me a little time to set up a run of files: the trick in the Epson application is to review each preview scan and set the parameters for enlargement, pre image. </p>

<p>With that done, I usually set the computer to working, and then enjoy a cold beer until it is done. Then I will burn the images to disk. I will edit each image, form that disk, at my convenience. Using this procedure, I have been able to build pretty good enlargements for both web and printing from small format negatives and medium format positives. No trouble. Good luck. J.</p>

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<p>What are your goals? Are you planning on printing anything or just web display? If printing, then what size? What format film? How many photos are you planning on scanning?</p>

<p>I really like this site: <a href="http://www.marginalsoftware.com/HowtoScan/tutorial_page_1.htm">www.marginalsoftware.com/HowtoScan/tutorial_page_1.htm </a> This is a great tutorial on how to get the most out of your film and what you are trying to accomplish and why.</p>

<p>IMO scanning sounds pretty neat and creative. In practice, IMO your time is better spent on another aspect of creating your photos. It is not as a creative task as you might think. I'd rather spend my time working in Lightroom or Photoshop after the film has been scanned. That is where the creative aspect of the digital dark room comes into play. And you will need to spend a lot of time in the editors no matter what. IMO send the film to a service to be scanned, you will get much better results and be more productive and creative. Or skip the whole thing and switch to DSLR.</p>

<p>If you must scan, get a scanner that fits all your needs and be prepared for a learning curve and a somewhat boring task before you can get creative. If you plan on printing over 8x10 IMO be prepared to spend the money to get good results, a flatbed scanner may not be good enough for you.</p>

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<p>Thanks for the replies.</p>

<p>Oh well its looking ropey just reading what you have replied here because I have no idea at what size I'd want to print anything. I've not even had a photo printer for many many years.</p>

<p>In reply to my needs, for a good while now all my films have been 'Dev Only' at the lab so I've no idea what the pictures even look like. So initially I wanted to have a proof sheet to look at to see the positive image. Then at the same time I'd like to be able to view sections of the proofs at the best resolution for evaluating which shot is the best from those I'm looking at (I typically find a shot I like and shoot it at different apertures). For the evaluation idea, my thoughts were for the b/w at least to save me dakroom time and paper and pre-visualising the final print...and I'm a good way from even getting a darkroom set up again. Anything colour I chose for an enlargement would go to a wet lab.</p>

<p>I know the proofs don't need to be scanned at a high resolution but the 'detail sections' would and I was wondering how to combine both whilst keeping file size to a minimum. But right now the print size thing has me stumped because, as I say, I've no idea what size I would want anything printed. Most of my photography is just for myself although I'm hoping to go commercial (if that's the right word) and sell prints. But my idea for the prints has always been wet prints from film rather than digital. Whatever happens I think 10x8 would be my maximum size for an enlargement.</p>

<p>Oh and in further reply I have 35mm (b/w, C41 and E6), 645, 66, 67, 69 and 54 (b/w and C41).</p>

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<p>OK fellas.</p>

<p>Just don't seem to get the time thesedays...will have to look those webs up<em> next</em> weekend now. Have had the V700 a while now and only just unboxed it.</p>

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