Renting a DF for two months, any setup tips?

I am renting a DF for two months as a third body for corporate work over the Summer, mainly for use along with my X100S and Leica M3

when in behind the scenes situations that can and do often involve White House cabinet members. So silence is a must in these

situations and I am hoping the DF can be my silent Nikon as many report it to be very quiet if not the most quiet SLR they have recently

used.

 

In terms of setting it up, is there a way to export some of the settings of my D800's onto a SD card and then import them onto the DF and if not,

are there any big differences in the menus? Even though my experience in using Nikon digital cameras now goes back 20 years to the

N90 based NC2000, any other tips would be great.

 

Thanks, Dan

<p>My D600 has a much softer shutter sound than my D800, and the newly replaced shutter may be a little quieter than before, if anything. I am assuming that the Df is similar or better.</p>

<p>I don't think you can copy the settings in a file from the D800, but I do find that settings about the same between the 600 & 800. It does not take long to go through the menus and match if you have both cameras handy. Again, assuming the Df is sort of like the D600.</p>

<p>Nikon Df /as many of the recent Nikon bodies/ have quiet mode:</p>

<p><img src="http://imgsv.imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/df/img/features04/img_03.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>for the settings - the menus are similar, as far as I know there is no option to transfer settings, the only thing you can put in your camera are some color profiles - simulating films - they worked on D90, but I don't know for the new bodies:</p>

<p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon_d300_users/discuss/72157615997229801/">https://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon_d300_users/discuss/72157615997229801/ </a></p>

And don't font forget to use the camera's AF-micro-adjustment to tune camera's AF system to YOUR lenses.

The D4s has a Silent (as well the standard Quiet) live view mode. JPEGs only but truly silent. Maybe the Df has this too?

For general shooting, I like my Df to have the following settings.

 

Raw + jpg-Fine.

Aperture priority mode.

Auto distortion correction ON.

Auto ISO on and set to ISO 12,800 max, ISO dial at 100.

Min. Shutter speed set to 2x focal length.

Aperture control by aperture ring on lens (reverts to Sub-Command with G lenses).

Also, I have becomes accustom to using the rear display to confirm and adjust settings. I like this approach.

 

And, use smaller lenses to get the complete Df experience.

This is all kind of what I figured so I will just do my usual routine when I get the camera, sync time date, copyright, picture

settings and be good to go. I'm looking forward to checking it out, seems most people love it.

 

I'm just a bit surprised at how there is nothing similar to Apple's migration assistant since Nikon essentially has an OS in the camera, they really need to up their game on this. For example, how great would it be to have the ability to just set this all up on a computer with the camera plugged in, using expanded graphics and save options that could be exported to a new camera?

I've got to ask an honest question: why in the world shoot Raw + JPEGs? Raw I totally get, shooting raw to two cards I

completely get, and in some circumstances I can even see the value of just shooting JPEGs; but even, or especially for work you care about, why waste the card space on JPEGs if you are shooting raw files?

 

JPEGs are merely raw files processed in camera to the parameters some engineer who knows nothing about what you are shooting,

thinks your photos should look like. Sure you can tweak those parameters slightly by adjusting the picture style settings

but you are still cutting yourself off at the knees by limiting dynamic range and bit depth.

 

It just seems like a crazy strategy to me - unless you can completely control all aspects of the shoot including the

exposure range and color of the lighting.

 

But I'm willing to listen to a well thought out reason for shooting raw+ JPEG.

For what it is worth, one of the best things I ever did for my sanity and need to stay off the computer is to shoot nearly all

jpegs for the corporate work I do. I just shoot it like chrome, far far more productive and intuitive to me and the results are

stellar. The jpegs from the X100S are so good I don't think I have ever shot raw with that camera.

 

I'll be setting up the DF to do the same, it's just a much better workflow for me and I always nail the shot.

<p>I like the Raw files for the few images I want to carefully adjust. But lots of the files get sent to family members, printed as small snapshots, posted to my web site, even forums like this. Having a usable jpg coming out of the camera lets me do that without running a Raw editor and all that.</p>

<p>I never fill cards up, so card capacity does not influence my reasoning.</p>

<p>my 2¢</p>

<p>I am like Dan I never have storage problem. I never run out a card and I have no problem carrying spare card so I have zero interest in saving space. That's said, still you don't want to use storage space that you don't need but I found that I need the JPEG to give them to my wife very soon after the shot was taken and I have no time nor a chance to do anything with the RAW file. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>"But I'm willing to listen to a well thought out reason for shooting raw+ JPEG."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A bit of a digression, but since Daniel mentioned his Fuji X100s...<br /><br /> Fuji's X-series JPEGs really are that good. I heard this claim from other Fuji X-fans, but was skeptical until I tried the X-A1. I always shoot raw & JPEG. But after two months and nearly 2,000 photos, I've only edited a handful of Fuji raw files in Lightroom or other raw converter, fewer than a dozen.<br /><br /> However I do a lot of in-camera editing. Fuji's in-camera raw converter is outstanding, and quicker than using Lightroom or other raw editor on the PC. The various in-camera film simulation and other adjustments are very good.<br /><br /> Saves a lot of time. And I can't improve the overall look of Fuji raw files in Lightroom or other raw converter (I've tried Silkypix and Photo Ninja too). The only thing I can do slightly better with raw files on the PC is highlight recovery from overexposed or extremely contrasty scenarios. Occasionally I'll reduce red saturation very slightly to restore subtle gradations in flowers, fabrics, etc. Most of the time the in-camera raw converter is good enough.<br /><br /> But Fuji's in-camera raw converter only works if you shoot raw. And I always shoot raw & JPEG to have a baseline for comparison.<br /><br /> I also shoot raw & JPEG with Nikons but I'm rarely satisfied with the straight JPEGs. The raw files edited in Lightroom are almost always better, or at least closer to my personal preferences.<br /><br /> Nikon really should consider emulating Fuji's method and provide more flexible in-camera raw conversions.</p>

I asked, you are answering, so thank you for that.

<p>The Nikon jpegs can be made to look every bit as good. Just dial in the options you like and shoot that way.</p>

<p>There is one issue with Raw+jpeg, and that is; if you dial in the exposure for a good jpeg, you tend to need to blow a few of the highlights. Whereas, with an optimum Raw exposure, you want the highlights preserved as much as possible.</p>

<p>In practice, this is rarely a problem for me.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I like the Raw files for the few images I want to carefully adjust. But lots of the files get sent to family members, printed as small snapshots, posted to my web site, even forums like this. Having a usable jpg coming out of the camera lets me do that without running a Raw editor and all that.<br>

I never fill cards up, so card capacity does not influence my reasoning.<br>

my 2¢</p>

</blockquote>

<p>My 2 cents looks a lot like Dan's.</p>

<p>Had the Df for about 5 hours now, all set up for work. I could see it being a great travel camera although I don't know that the shutter is a whole lot quieter than a D600/610, I'm spoiled by the X100S in that regard. With respect to ergo / controls, it seems to fit nicely in-between my D800's and FM3A so far, same goes for size and weight. <br /> I think I can work pretty fast with it although the mode dial and exposure comp will be a couple of speed bumps. I'll check back in a month when I have given it a fair shake..</p>

<p>Don't have the Df yet, but the mode dial issue to me, is already a non-issue. Who flicks between modes within a minute? And why? Manual, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program. Program? Never. Shutter Priority? Rarely. Manual? Yes. Aperture Priority? Mostly.<br>

Throughout all of the threads pertaining to the Df, one of the most tugged issues has been the, Mode Dial. Why? I don't get it, and why the Df? It doesn't matter that we need to lift the dial to set it. It's still a decision that marks a purpose pertaining to the situation, and if one can't decide what it is they're doing while doing it, or what the situation is for the associated mode is than maybe its time to review what the term, 'Mode,' is, pertaining to Photography. Anyway that's kind of a rant, but the mode dial is notorious to the Df, and to me if we want to get critical over the Df, the Exposure Compensation dial is a better candidate.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Who flicks between modes within a minute? And why? </p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

I do it all the time shooting indoors. I switch between ambient (Av,) slow sync flash (Av and M,) and bounce flash (M) regularly. </p>

<p>Jeff,<br>

The Df mode dial doesn't include the options you cited.<br>

<img src="webkit-fake-url://6213C4D0-FC4E-41FF-8070-E70452C3F662/image.tiff" alt="" /></p>

<p>During advertising shoots, editorial & corporate journalism, I flip through M, A & S all the time, have since the F4s. I think *exceptionally* fast when I see converging circumstances that will make a great photograph and being able to change modes, factor in exposure compensation instantly pays off like you can not believe, especially when my eye never leaves the viewfinder.<br>

<br />Trust me on this one Don, among other quick thinking features, pros use the mode dial like a gear shift knob on a race car...all the time.</p>

The Df' does have a mode dial, it's on the right edge of the top deck and marked M A S P

 

And when shooting whether for myself or clients I go back and forth between the Aperture (A) priority and m (manual) mode all the time. I almost never use Shutter priority and I never use Program modes.

<p>Ellis, of course it has one, it is just considerably slower to use as you have to lift it up and then turn it rather than use the *super* fast action of a command dial and button to toggle it like most Nikon bodies.<br>

<br /> It does not make a "bad" camera, so far I like it but had never really heard about any complaints of the mode dial, I just discovered it being much slower my self. I have quite a few shoot days and on the order of 20,000 frames to make on the Df before I am done with using it this Summer, I am sure I will have greater insight at that time...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The Df mode dial doesn't include the options you cited.</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

The Df mode dial has manual and aperture priority, which are what I said I used.</p>

So I really enjoyed the Df, put about 12,000 frames on it in two weeks. In the end I compared it to my friend's 610 and the

shutter noise was the same, nice and quiet, the files were really great too. But in actual pro use the D610 was a lot faster

to drive and since I mostly use medium and large format film for all other work, saving a grand in getting a D610 made a

lot more sense.

 

I returned the Df early and ordered a D610 from B&H, it pairs nicely with my loud as heck D800.

<p>Daniel,<br>

So faster to drive includes all of the above issues, Mode dial, exposure comp, etc? The saving money is a stark reality. Also, is the D800 louder than a FM3a? That would be something! LOL.</p>