Removing M2 top cover

I have the world's ugliest working M2. Some previous owner was obviously determined to kill it (but failed). I love it. I am going to convert it to a hot shoe. I have designed the center poll and insulation with I will turn up. To connect it to the camera's wiring, I need to remove the top plate.

<p>

Can somebody please give me a list of actions, any any helpful hints. The range finder is currently acurate, and I will just ive it a superficial cleaning out what the top cover exposes. From the threaded fasteners I have seen, I can make the special tools.

<p>

Do I need to remove the eyecup ring? RH Thread?

<p>

Are the Flash contact ring nuts RH Thread? Are the wires long enough to first remove the top cover and then hold the connectors as you unscrew the nuts?

<p>

For the rewind knob, do I hold film cassette winding dog while unscrewing the rewind knob center? RH Thread? (Two special tools).

<p>

After removing the Shutter speed dial, I have a central fastener with two slots mounting the shaft (special tool), and a thin black ring surrounding the shaft which doesn't rotate. Do I remove the central fastener, lift out the shaft and this exposes the screws which mount the ring?

<p>

Is the ring shurrounding the shutter release the wind lever mount nut, any if so RH Thread?

<p>

Is the peice next to the frame number pointer wich looks like a rivet head a fastener?

Boy, Mark, are you brave! Taking the top cover off a Leica without

knowing what you're doing! Sort of like captain Kirk, going where no

man has gone before (sort of).

<p>

I think that in order to remove the top plate, you have to take out

the top screw of the lens mounting ring (I'm not sure I should be

telling you this). Now, when you remove the lens, you won't actually

see a top screw. You nwill see four other screws; but at the top,

all you see is a recessed black area. But on closer inspection, this

is a seal, embossed with the secret insignia of GOD (father Leitz).

This is where he personally gave his seal of approval to your Leica

M@ by stamping that tiny seal with his secret decoder ring.

<p>

Now, it is fabled that a Leica can be opened, and its secrets

revealed, by violating the sacred black seal and removing the screw

underneath. As I understand it, no one who was not personally

blessed by Dr. Ernst Leitz has ever done this, and lived to tell

about it. It is said that Leica won't work on any camera that's had

its seal violated. I certainly wouldn't know. I've never done it.

<p>

You said you love your M2. I love mine, too. Did you know a surgeon

won't operate on his own wife?

<p>

But I don't want you think I'm trying to discourage you ...

Yikes! I'm afraid to even watch this thread.

<p>

If the quip was serious, Leica DOES work on cameras with "violated"

seals. I think it probably just affects the Leica warranty, where

applicable. After all, even when you have Leica themselves service

the camera, it comes back with the embossed L gonzo, kaput, AWOL.

This is information you don't otherwise find on the web. It is about

time.

<p>

That seal was long gone when I got it. Looks to me like I need to

pull all the top three lens mount screws.

<p>

Every Leica technicial in the world once opened one of these for the

first time. I am an aicraft A&P, and intend to leave what works (the

shutter and RF) alone. The top cover is just an access plate.

Unscrew bezel* around shutter release button.

<p>

Lift off saddle spring, winding lever, spacer, and counting dial

(Some cameras do not have a spacer). Remove felt ring (usually

glued so remove only if damaged).

<p>

Unscrew headless screw* next to counter index mark.

<p>

Unscrew speed dial retaining screw and lift off dial.

<p>

Unscrew four retaining screws from accessory shoe (only

remove stop screw if damaged). Lift off accessory shoe,

pressure plate and spring.

<p>

Unscrew rewind knob retaining screw* and lift off washer, knob,

forked carrier and slotted friction sleeve.Unscrew retaining ring

*now exposed.

<p>

Unscrew two retaining rings* around flash sockets.

<p>

Remove two flash socket bushings (remove the two locking

springs only if damaged).

<p>

Unscrew lens mount upper sealed screw (remove seal first).

<p>

Lift off top cover

<p>

Around shutter release, lift off saddle spring, release knob and

shaft, and release sleeve.

<p>

*requires special tool

<p>

All threads in THIS procedure are normal threads ( anticlockwise

to remove). The featureless screw fittings requirie special

clamping ring tools to remove. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE!

They are often on VERY tight and are sometimes damaged even

when you use the special tools. Spare fittings may be purchased

from Leica and the clamping ring tools may be purchased from

Leica or:

<p>

<a href="http://www.micro-tools.com/">

http://www.micro-tools.com/</a>

<p>

This procedure is for an M2 camera, others will differ slightly. I do

not recommend you do this if you do not already have a great

deal of experience on repairing small fiddly things.

<p>

Cheers

I forgot to mention that the M6 cameras have electronic circuitry

under the top cover and should not be tackled by the us mere

mortals. THE VIEWFINDER ASSEMBLY CAN EASILY BE

DAMAGED!!! This is especially true in older cameras where the

optical cement may have deteriorated.

<p>

Cheers

I will second everything John has said, having done this many times

with the special tools from Fargo (www.microtools), plus I'll add

that *replacing* all the threaded rings is an even more delicate

procedure, as the thread pitches are very tight and alloys are soft,

so it is easy to cross-thread and strip if you don't get them started

just right and/or apply too much torque.

Thanks John and Jay.

<p>

You procedure confirms what logic tells me would be the way this is

fastened.I've been an aircraft mechanic for 10 years, and appreciate

the need for special tools and correct torquing into soft alloys.

<p>

My camera is really ugly. I bought it for under $250. At some stage

it has been dropped hard enough on the rewind knob to bulge the top

plate out between it and the Leica logo. It also has a dent on the

opposite end, and the left side frame line is weak.

<p>

Even if someone was to butcher this with pliers, I don't think it

would make much difference (I won't). All the screws have so far been

easy to remove. Thansk for the URL to micro tools.

<p>

My greatest concern is that some gorilla has already been in there,

and overtorqued all the fasteners.

Unknown issues about grounding and the electrical circuitry in

general would make schematics desirable. RPS or Kalt or whoever has

absorbed them made a relatively inexpensive adapter than ran a cord

from the PC to a resin shoe that slid into the real shoe creating a

synchronized hot shoe. Duoflash makes or made extensions with shoes

at each end, perhaps rewirable for for your needs.

FYI, a hot soldering tip held close to black "Fimo" clay that has

been pushed into the space above that masthead screw in the Leica M

lens flange, will serve as replacement for missing script "L" or

other seal. The last thing I sent to Leica was back during the (late

80's) signature service days. The serviced camera came back with

plain black parrafin (no logo).

Well, Mark, it looks like you are going ahead with it. I wouldn't

mind having the knowledge to repair Leicas myself, but I have neither

the time nor a suitable Leica to practice on. Who knows, you might

get good at it, and we'll all be sending you our Leicas. Good luck

with it, and let us know how it turns out!