remote shutter release for A1 or AE1

I am interested in setting up a remote sytem to operate the shutter release for my A1 or AE1. I am interested in operating the camera from a distance, and also in using an infrared or lazer detecter to operate the cameras. Has anybody got any ideas? Is, for instance, it possible to get one of the camera bodies modified such that they can be tripped electrically? Thanks in advance for your suggestions

For the A-1 at least, there is the LC-1 remote release setup. It is a

n IR setup that has a receiver that sits in the hot shoe and attaches

to the camera with a cord, and the transmitter that you aim at it to

trip the shutter. I am not sure whether you HAVE to have the motor

drive or power winder, but I think you do.

 

<p>

 

I am not sure whether the LC-1 does the trip when breaking the beam

type of setup. I know the LC-2 for the T90 and the LC3 for the EOS do

support this.

 

<p>

 

As to modifying, I do not know how they trip, but the motor drive and

A2 power winder have a jack of them for the remote trigger.

Thanks for that information Terry. I wonder, do you know where I would

find out fuller specs for the LC-1 2 and 3? You say that the LC-1 sits

on the hot shoe. I presume that this is just convenient and not

necessary (providing that the cord was connected), as I would like to

do this remote control using a flash on the camera! I'm afraid that I

didn't understand your last sentence "As to modifying, I do not know

how they trip, but the motor drive and A2 power winder have a jack of

them for the remote trigger" could you clarify. Thanks once again,

David,

The LC-1 does not need to sit on the hot shoe. It does, however,

need a MA motor drive or Winder A2 to work. Because it uses the

electrical shutter release, it won't work with an AE-1. The receiver

plugs into the socket on the winder. It will release the shutter for

single shots or contunuous exposures, and can be used to fire the

shutter in the bulb position. The transmitter and receiver work on

line of sight, to a distance of about 200 feed under good conditions.

If I can be of any more help, please contact me.

Thanks for that information, Kirby, I understand now. The A-1 has four

electrical contacts on the bottom, and the motor drive must

communicate with the camera through them, to activate the motor drive

when appropriate, and to make available the electronic shutter

release. My power winder A (which does not make available an

elctronic shutter) uses only two of these contacts, the central ones,

and so the eletronic shutter release must be controlled by the outer

two. I suppose that you don't know how these contacts work, so that if

I cant find the motor drive I could use these contacts directly, to

control the shutter(but perhaps this would blow up the camera!).

Thanks again

David,

 

<p>

 

It sounds like (but no guarantee) that shorting the two outer contacts

may trip the shutter on the A-1. Test at your own risk.

 

<p>

 

What I was talking about modifying, is any setup nor fully supported

by the system. I was not sure about the Winder A and AE-1. I KNOW

that the MA Motor Drive and Winder A2 and A-1 work with the unit, as I

have or have had all these pieces. I would assume that an AE-1P would

also work, since it supports the A2 Winder.

David,

 

<p>

 

I agree with Terry about shorting the pins, but you could check with

a repair shop to find out for sure. It seems that the safest thing

to do would be to sell your A winder and get an A2 (or make a

trade). The A2 does a couple of things the A won't, and solves the

problem of connecting with the pins.

 

<p>

 

Any other questions, please ask.

Kirby

The long range user trigger method needs the LC-1 and the winder A2.

Goods for nesting birds etc. But I think David wants a remote animal

trap type set-up. I identified some thievin varmints with the A1,

winder A2 and an IR security alarm from Radio Shack. All snugged up

in plastic baggies it worked fine.

Hi everybody, Yes I was interested in setting up a remote system to

catch animals or insects, there are quite a few detectors sold by

Radio Spares that look good. I have tried to short the outer two

contacts of the four on the bottom plate of the camera, but no luck!

The electronic shutter release was not tripped. Fortunately, the

camera did not blow up either. I put in an order for an A2 or MA motor

drive with Jessops in Britain, but they have not been able to find one

yet. Thats as far as I've got for the moment!

David,

Log onto ebay.com, or the classified ad section of this page. I have

also had good luck with KEH cameras at KEH.com.

Kirby