reduce/eliminate haze

<p>I've often wondered how to eliminate haze. The haze that is often present in landscapes where there is a distent mountain range. Is there a filter which will help with this?</p>

<p>Haze is usually light scatter in the UV and blue ranges. Low pass filters can be used to keep the high frequency blue and UV light from the film. Think yellow, orange, and red filters. Unfortunately, these filters effect the entire image, not just the parts that "need" it. IOW, they all tend to depress green values too, so those trees and grasses become darker as a result of the filter. Blues are of course very effected which is one of the primary uses of these filters -- to increase the tonal separation between the blue sky and white clouds.</p>

<p>Of course, these filters are intended for B&W films. I'll let someone who knows more about color films deal with that.</p>

<p>A KR6 will reduce haze as will a UV filter. The KR series are color filters the UV is for color or B&W.</p>

<p>I've always wanted to do this buy as of yet haven't tried it myself, but from I what I remember reading in Ansel Adams <em>The Negative</em>, the most effective way is to shoot infrared film. Essentially, the film records heat and not light so blue light haze vanishes. Maybe someone with some experience shooting the stuff can comment at this point.</p>

<p>IR film really cuts through haze. I shot some IR Ektachrome from a Cessna 150 flying at about 10,000 feet over the desert near Kitt Peak Observatory a few years ago. You can see detail in the horizon at a very long distance. Since the red end of the spectrum is going to be less affected I'd also try just using a pan B&W film with a red filter as Bruce suggested.</p>

 

<p>Hi Ron,</p>

<p>Other than using IR film you shoot with Chrome, Tungsten film, use the 85B filter, under expose the calculated exposure by 1 f stop, push process 1 f stop and voila, that is the best you can get without canceling the laws of physics. But, please don't forget to tilt the lens board for actual maximum focus. Remember, those poor little photons have to bang their way through atoms, molecules, dust, dirt, water, etc, for upwards of 15 or more miles. Using my technique puts the photographer is in the position of using about 70% of the light in orange and red, much longer wave lengths to punch through. Try it you'll like it. <br>

This used to be my secret technique for aerial oblique photography, long distance landscapes, photographing people in open shade, and some instances of architectural photogaphy. One of my favorites back in the days of Kodachrome type A, I used KPA, plus and 85A filter which yielding a film speed of 25, something we were all familiar with then. Since I have been teaching, for the last 20 years, I've given away some of my secrets. </p>

<p>If you are old enough, you might remember me for the 30 years of writing for The Rangefinder and Photo Lab Management.</p>

<p>Lynn<br>

Lynn Jones, Lynn for the Pro, Prof. H. Lynn Jones, BA, HonMS, Hon. Life Member, TPPA</p>

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