Really Right Stuff Multi-Camera L-Plate...

Is anyone at this forum using this L-Plate with their Nikon FM/FE

family camera? Anyone using it with a Nikon F3? If so what are

your thoughts?<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/mcl/index.html"

target="_new"><u>Really Right Stuff Multi-Camera L-Plate</u></a><br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/mcl/RRS_MC-L.pdf"

target="_new"><u>Technical Drawing in PDF</u></a><br>

<br>

Thanks!<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<div></div>

I use a Really Right Stuff Multi-Camera L-Plate with an FM3A. It seems to do exactly what

it is supposed to do. It is not fancy. It seems extremely well made and solid. It just works.

Do you have any specific questions?

I use the Really Right Stuff generic L plate on all of my current cameras: D100, F5, F100 and Contax 645, and it works very well. I prefer this generic L plate over any dedicated one for the F5 or F100 because all I need to carry is one plate and it fits all of those cameras. The F5 and the Contax are pretty heavy cameras and there are still no problems.

 

However, the model I have seems to be an older. Mine is not hollowed out in the bottom as shown in the image in Dave's link.

L brackets are a gift from above. Any reputable brand should work

fine. I happen to use two Kirk models and love them. I have a homemade

one for my Mamyia and it also works great. Its the only way to do

verticals IMO. My next will probably be a generic from RRS or Kirk.

The universal L-bracket works very well. You need an A/S plate for each camera, of course. It's an essential tool for landscapes and portraits, to avoid flopping the head or ball for vertical shots.

 

The only downside is that the camera usually won't fit into the bag with the L-bracket attached. furthermore, the L-bracket is bulky and difficult to carry in its own right.

 

I finally bought a dedicated L-bracket for a D1x. It's built like a NASCAR roll cage, but at least I can leave it attached to the camera. For everything else, I use the universal bracket.

Thank you for the replies!<br>

<br>

I recently bought a pair of Wimberley C-10 clamps and seven

plates. That covers my PN-11 and telephotos with rotating collars.

I already had a pair of Kirk macro flash brackets. Ive

charged up a new CC with a 0% teaser and now have to pay it down.

I have eight months left I think. I know they want my interest

dollars; I plan to fool them.<br>

<br>

<em>"You need an A/S plate for each camera, of course."

--Edward Ingold<br>

</em><br>

Good golly miss molly! Id have to go a Big Bill in debt. I

stopped trading in cameras in the early 80s after a

disastrous trade of a Pentax 6x7 system. One L-plate that works

on all my 35mm bodies sounds great.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave.

Thanks again! I received the RRS MC-L today. It�s well finished and very rigid. It fits the FE2, FM2n and F3 fine (not that was worried). I�ll check out other cameras tomorrow.

David, I am curious about how your L plate works with heavier cameras such as the F5. Again, your plate is the new one with part of the bottom hollow'ed out to reduce weight, right? My RRS L plate is a solid piece across; it is more rugged but likely to be heavier.

I received my Really Right Stuff, Multi-Camera L-Plate just

last Friday. It is the new hollowed out version. It weighs just

97g on my high school style OHAUS 2610 scales so its nicely

portable. Its well rounded on the side towards the hands

and square but deburred facing the camera. The camera is

noticeably rigid on the tripod especially compared to the typical

padded interface between tripod head and camera. My plate is well

finished in satin black.<br>

<br>

The fit to the F100, FE2, FM2n and F3 or F3HP is very good to

excellent. The F100 is rounded at the base but not so much as to

cause a significant problem. The release for the F100s back

is accessible through the hollowed area on the left and the

battery holder is accessible also. All the cameras mentioned here

fit nicely with the 1/4-20 fastener at the 3rd position from the

"L." Again the feeling of all cameras is surprisingly

rigid. To save weight only one bracket is required for any

combination of these cameras.<br>

<br>

The fit to the F5 is not as good as the others. The F5 has

generously rounded edges at the base and more care is required to

fit the plate correctly. To mount the plate on the F5 its

necessary to move the fastener from the 3rd to the 4th position

out from the "L." The battery holder is inaccessible

once the MC-L plate is in place. The minimum clearance for the

camera back is about 1mm as it opens. Im sure the MC-L

plate is machined on some type of computer controlled milling

machine. Though close, the back can be opened without scraping. I

dont think there will be any noticeable variation from

bracket to bracket. With only 1mm I cant say the bracket

will always fit but that is my guess. In fairness keep in mind

that this plate was never intended for the F5.<br>

<br>

My one complaint for the MC-L is the ridge for aliening the plate

to the back side of the camera base plate is square and not

rounded. I would have liked a lightly rounded edge. My F5 is mint

so I covered the plate with packing tape and broke the square

edge off with a 1/4" square file then smoothed the edge with

a quick sanding using Norton Abrasives wet/dry #150 to #600 sand

paper.<br>

<br>

For those who are fastidious about the finish of their cameras Id

break that square edge on the aligning ridge as described above.

Super fastidious? Id glue a thin strip of eel skin from an

old wallet with Goodyear Pliobond to the inside of the ridge to

protect the camera finish.<br>

<br>

In conclusion Ill give the Really Right Stuff, Multi-Camera

L-Plate two thumbs up (which is ironic because in the ancient

Roman Arenas "thumbs up" meant slit his throat!) The F5

seems acceptable for occasional use but down the road a piece Ill

buy a custom plate. It will quite likely be the new RRS BF5L

custom plate for the F5. I would like a second RRS MC-L plate for

those time when two cameras are switched frequently. That will

have to wait also.<br>

<br>

I hope this is helpful to prospective buyers,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.<br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

Shun,<br>

<br>

This is a lot more than you asked for but I wrote it as a review

for ezShop. I didnt think to see if RRS was included till I

was three quarters finish. Ill post it here as there is an

outside chance someone might check the archives and find this

useful.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave.

Quick update incase someone should check the archives. With a little dremeling to the aligning tab on the rear of an AH-2 tripod adapter, the RRS MC-L plate works great with a Nikon F3 on an MD-4 motor drive. The dremeling (hobby type tool and die grinder) is not absolutely necessary but this allows me to use one more camera with the fastener in the third slot out.

 

The reason keeping the fastener in the same position is important is in the field dropping that fastener in to leaf litter, grass or rocky ground could put a stop to photography. It�s wise to carry a spare fastener and tool.

 

I Hope this may help someone considering Arca-Swiss clamps and plates.

 

Dave Hartman.

The same modified Nikon AH-2 Tripod Adapter works with a Nikon MD-12 Motor if the hole in the AH-2 is elongated with a "mouse tail" file. Keep that hole small so the captive screw in the AH-2 remains captive. The AH-2 can now be positioned so the RRS MC-L Plate will clear the MD-12 grip. It�s a close fit but it works. The camera on the MD-12 must be upside down for verticals which messes up my proof sheets but that�s life.