acearle Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 I've become quite addicted to Fuji Superia X-Tra 800 in the colorworld, but can NOT get anything faster than 400 in B&W here in Taiwan.I've read in a couple of threads that it is possible to shoot someISO400 film at ISO800 with no compensation in processing (I'm stillphysically building my darkroom and am taking all of my film to a labfor processing). I also have very little experience with pushing orpulling. The ISO400s I have available are Ilford XP2 Super and Delta 400. Myhonest preference at ISO400 is the Delta. What would be the result ofeither of these being shot at ISO800 (underexposing one stop)? Most ofwhat I am doing is relatively long exposre, usually no more than 1/8second and sometimes getting down to 30 seconds. The reason I'd liketo shoot at ISO800 is for the occasion where I'd like to hand hold ashot for te angle and use a faster shutter speed. I suppose I SHOULD just try it, but figure that hearing from otherpeople's experices might trigger other dusty, cobwebbed regions of mybrain to start firing :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis_oconnor2 Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 Delta 400 does not have a reputation of being good for pushing... XP2 is a C41 (color film) process... I suspect that the lab can push it one stop, but you are going to pay the price with empty shadows and flat prints... Get a monopod, or a bean bag, or press the camera against a wall, or something, and keep the ISO at 400... Otherwise, go to a non tabular grain film, like Tri-X 400/320, etc., which will push to 800 with less of a penalty in image quality (but still a penalty to be paid for any push).. Denny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acearle Posted December 29, 2003 Author Share Posted December 29, 2003 Denny, thanks. That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like I'm going to have to order 100' of Tri-X from the U.S. and process it myself. Not really all that bad as I can still have the lab do the prints while waiting for the enlarger :-). This may be a good thing in the long run as a lot of the night shots I've been trying (and failing) to get really need a very fast (on the order of ISO3200) film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted December 29, 2003 Share Posted December 29, 2003 If you can get a speed enhancing developer like Ilford's Microphen you'll get better results from most films "pushed" (underexposed followed by extended development). While I haven't tried Microphen on Delta 400 I've gotten good enough results from Microphen with other films to have confidence in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 It's only a 1 stop push and, as Lex says, a developer such as Microphen would handle it with ease. I'm currently running trials with TX400 (Tri-X) and I'm inclined to think this would be a better option for pushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_hicks1 Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 Dear Alton, The new Delta 400 pushes infinitely better than the old and you may be surprised at what good results you can get in a speed-increasing developer such as Ilford Microphen or DDX or Paterson FX 50. The true ISO will probably rise to 500 or so and after that it's only a 2/3 stop push. Cheers, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acearle Posted December 31, 2003 Author Share Posted December 31, 2003 Thanks for all the answers :-). I'm going to pick up a developing tank, dark bag, and the chemicals (will try to get Microphen) and do my own film processing at least while waiting for the enlarger. Will try and get the local camera show down here to order me some T-Max, but they tend not to want to order film for people (they actually lose money on the film). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_kaplan1 Posted January 4, 2004 Share Posted January 4, 2004 Keep in mind there there is a direct relationship of exposure time to film speed over a relatively narrow range of exposure. At very short speeds (less than perhaps 1/1000 second) or very long exposures (perhaps 1 second and longer) the film loses sensitivity and requires more exposure. Kodak publishes this information. You might have to give a stop otr two MORE exposure than the meter calls for at 10 seconds. Do it by opening the aperture. Increasing the time is a futile exercise of chasing your tail; the times just keep getting longer and longer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acearle Posted January 4, 2004 Author Share Posted January 4, 2004 Al! That's logic! I recognize it (use it rarely), you just answered a question that has come up a lot in the last week or two. Thank you! A lot of the indoor natural light shots I do are very long exposures and I've been adjusting time instead of aperture...of course I've been chasing my tail, that should have occurred to me :-). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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