Push processing question

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by stephenlee, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. Hi all i have just tried push processing Tri-X 400 @ 3200. Just to ask some beginner question as i have trouble trying to sort it out. I tried developing Tri-X in DDX @ abt 18mins @ 20C with agitations every min(Could find the timings anywhere so just tried to infer the correct timing by basing it on the timing for 400 and adding abt 2.25 times more). The negatives i got back, are primarily clear ( I was shooting a concert so there were lots of black parts). Now i know the negatives are underexposed due to me pushing 3 stops, and the developing time has been increased. So i would like to ask is the negative that i got back correct? As i am still experimenting i would like to know how to proceed next in order to develope Tri-X in DDX. Should i develope shorter or longer the next time i try to push tri-x. Or should i not agitate as much to bring out the shadow details (some form of stand developing)?
  2. Notwithstanding that the film was pushed, I would expect more density in the highlight areas of the negs. So I'd recommend a longer development time. I don't know DDX but on the basis of what you've said, I'd go for 25 minutes and one inversion every 30 seconds.
  3. What you are asking for is like wanting to buy a Yugo (poorly made cheap car) and make it into a competetive racing machine. Tri-x is not a Yugo , but it was never designed to give you a good print at ASA 3200. I have processed Tri-x at 1600, in developers that were made to push film in, and got useable negs out of it. If you need to shoot photos at 3200, I suggest that you start with a film such as T-max 3200 and shoot and develop that film. You will not waste as much money and time, and will have a better outcome.I have shot, I am sure, many hundreds of thousands of rolls of Tri-x and its a beautiful film ,but not a ASA 3200. I would say that 98% of all the B&W photos in my gallery are shot on Tri-x. Here is one shot late in the day on Tmax-3200 that does not look too bad.

  4. Also, metering a concert is very hard, especially with an in-camera or other reflective meter. A few bright lights in the field of view will completely throw off the reading. You really need a proper incident reading from the stage, and let the lights blow out.

    DD-X is a great speed-enhancing developer, but it will only raise shadow speed by maybe 1/2 to 1 stop. If you need fast, either Delta 3200 or T-MAX 3200, and be sure they are VERY fresh. Both loose speed in storage.
  5. Thanks for the replies, just to clarify this was a last resort thing, I shot a roll with Delta 3200 and gotten great results with it (same thing in DDX), so using TRI-X was a last resort thing as that was what i had left at that time.

    Thanks once again!

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