Purple Negatives???

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by landon_christensen, Nov 1, 2009.

  1. Hello Everyone,
    I am brand new to the community here at Photo Net, I thought I might get some help if I register and post some questions. This seems like a friendly bunch of photographers.
    Anyways....
    Today was my first shot at film developing. I was not very thrilled when I came to see that my negatives were tinted purple? Does anyone have any ideas on what to do/not to do? Here are the chemicals and film I am using and the times I use them for.
    ----------------------------------------------------
    I use Ilford HP5, 400 ISO
    Kodak D-76, for 9 minutes with 5 second agitation at 30 sec. intervals.
    Kodak Indicating Stop Bath, for 1 minute constant agitation.
    Kodak Fixer, for 5 1/2 minutes with 5 second agitation at 30 sec. intervals.
    Water Rinse, for 5 minute presure wash.
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Does anybody have suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Landon
     
  2. You may need to fix the film longer or wash it longer.
     
  3. Either fix longer (as suggested), or use hypo-clear, which I've found to remove most of the dye.
     
  4. I think the link above is pointing back to this thread. Anyway, a very simple solution is to pre-wash the negs for a 3-5 min in water, agitating as normal, then discarding before the developer step. Make sure the water temp is about 68 degrees. Also, I have not found the tint to have any real affect on the printing of the negatives.
     
  5. I recommend two-bath fixing and the Ilford Method of washing. Here's a link which may prove useful:
    Two-bath fixing.
    A trace of purple might remain but it is insignificant and fades with the passge of time.
     
  6. Landon: the purple color is residual anti-halation dye. It's nothing to be too concerned about. However, it does bring into question your fixing and washing, as others have mentioned. Fresh fixer with proper time and agitation, and plenty of water wash might clear the dye more completely.
     
  7. It happened to me in different amounts. I found the problem to be fixing, in every case. Try fixing a bit longer. For example, I use Rollei RXA: time listed on the booklet is 3-5 mins at dilution 1+4. I use 6-7 minutes. If the fixer isn't fresh, you might want to fix even longer.
    Never had any more casts.
     
  8. This is very interesting. I have notice "purple negatives" with both Ilford Delta 100 and Kodak T-Max 400. I assumed it was due to use of a different celluloid film base. It seems kind of odd that it would be residual dyes and be so uniform in color. Oh well, live and learn I quess. I have not seen any problems when scanning my purple negatives.
     
  9. Not necessarily in the case of HP5+. It's been a while since I've used the film, but if I recall the support is dyed that color and it doesn't come out. Certainly Tri-X has a slightly magenta tint to the base that, unlike the TMax films, doesn't come out in the wash, or by treatment with HCA, or anything else I've tried. In any case, it does no harm and the negatives print perfectly well. I did notice that you're using Kodak Fixer, and I'm assuming that this is the powdered stuff. It's ok as a fixer and it will do the job, but I don't think that 5 1/2 minutes is quite enough with this fixer. It is not a rapid fixer and is made primarily of sodium thiosulfate. I'd use 7 - 10 minutes with this fixer.
     
  10. I pre soak my films and get real pretty water out some times HP5+ is one that is purple.
     
  11. Thanks so much for all the fast responses. I will try them with my next batch of film.
     
  12. The purple color can be removed by placing the film in direct sulight. The UV rays clear the dye. If the Kodak Fixer is Sodium Thiosulfate, extend your fixing time to 10 minutes. If it is Ammonium Thiosulfate, 5.5 should be sufficient, but extend another 2 minutes . Some of the more modern films seem to need a longer fixing time and the two bath method keeps residual complexes from slowing down the process.
    Paul
     
  13. I second the "fix longer" suggestion. The rule of thumb I've learned from several photographers with years of experience shooting B&W is that the fixer should be in for 1-2 times the developing time. (10-20 minutes generally) Remember, you can't fix the film too long!
     
  14. Proper pre-wash, proper fixing and a good final wash of 15-30 minutes will all help get t he purple tint out of your negatives.
     

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