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Protect your 35/2!


edward_h

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Yesterday I noticed my 35/2 wouldn't autofocus out of minimum focusing

distance: when I tried to focus on something far away it wouldn't

budge. I had to manually turn the ring a few times before it managed

to autofocus again.

 

Anyways, so I goes to the camera repair shop and ask what it would

cost to repair it. About half the new price of the lense. :(

 

I'm generally careless with my own equipment and the 35/2 could

probably have gotten a bump sometime or other (not that I remember

when it could have happened) but anyways: I decided to keep the

semi-broken 35 and build some protection for it.

 

I went to the hardware store, looked around and found a plastic pipe

round about the same diameter as the 35. I sawed it down to about 7cm

(5.5cm is the length of the 35), put on some masking tape (which will

be replaced with black electrician's tape sometime in the future) and

then squeezed it onto the 35.

 

The result, as y'all can see below, is a slightly longer 35/2 that now

can take a beating; all external forces hitting the front of the pipe

are directly transfered straight to the camera body which means the

lens (and bayonet mount) go unharmed. Also, the protective pipe acts

as a small lens hood.

 

I could have made the pipe several centimeters longer which would have

improved the hood characteristics, but I wanted to keep it compact.

 

PS: The lens now focuses completely fine, for some reason. Maybe the

stuck focus was a sign for me to go get some protection for it?<div>00Bgbu-22617084.jpg.006bccd7767eca9b6e638583349fbbaf.jpg</div>

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> Have you dis-canoned your Canon also?

 

Yeah. I'm not into large logos and being a walking advertisement.

 

I've taken the tape off now, btw. A couple of pieces of pipe (from the sawing) will probably fall off, but it attracts less attention being all black.

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"all external forces hitting the front of the pipe are directly transfered straight to the camera body which means the lens (and bayonet mount) go unharmed."<p>Except for the tangential lateral forces at the end of your pipe that get transferred directly to the lens mount.<p> You gotta stop hanging out w/those black electrical tape Leica shooters...
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The same thing has happened to my 50mm f/1.4. The lens had taken a hard hit to the front (enough to jam the lens cap down into the filter threads), and now the AF won't rotate out of the minimum focus region. I have to manually rotate the focus ring a bit, and then the AF motor will take over.

 

I use a generic rubber hood that screws into the filter threads, and it doesn't offer much protection. But I've noticed that the real hood (from Canon) will fit bayonet-style onto the main barrel itself. This hood, which is hard plastic, would definitely guard against shock-loading the inner lens barrel.

 

-TJ

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> Use a lens hood to protect your lens.

 

How do you attach a hood to the 35/2? To the filter thread? In that case it's not going to help my any from shocks and harsh treatment.

 

I sure don't see where else one can attach a lens hood to it.

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The hood for the 50 1.8 actually makes the lens more vulnerable. It is lateral force applied to the moving inner lens barrel which causes the lens to malfunction. The inner lens barrel is the attachment point for the hood. Those lenses where the lens hood is attached to the rigid outer barrel provide more protection.
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Edward> Not on the filter thread The EW-65, ES-65 and the ET-65 are all clip-on hoods that can be clipped on the outside of the lens. The ET-65 is ,obviously, the most efficient hood.

 

The EW-65 is the hood that Canon recommends for the 35/2.

 

Try it out - you can get a used ET-65II for 20$ and it works very well...

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