Processing Ilford XP2 with T-Max developer

For some time now, I have been processing XP2 with black and white chemicals, and it works fine for the most part.(They come out a little thin) I want to know if anyone has been doing the same, and any ideas on making my negatives a little more dense.I have been using the standard T-Max 1:4 @ 75 degrees, followed by the usual process, stop-fix-wash-etc.

Anyone out there doing the same?

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has tried this. I used to develop XP-1 in D-76 with excellent results. If

your negatives come out too thin either increase the amount of chemistry in the mix or increase your development

time. As I remember we had to develop XP-1 about 25 percent longer than recommended for T-Max 400. I still

have the negatives and some prints from this combination.

ok,

this has me intrigued.

<p>

If a XP[1|2] in (name your silver emulsion developer) works, then what

would I get if I tried to develop normal colour negs (or slides, for

that matter) in D76 (or other)?

<p>

Anyone tried this? I seem to remember a chart detailing the results

of all possible cross-processing (C41, E6, silver), but can't find it.

<p>

duncan

Aha! I finally found it (should've looked harder in the first place)

<p>

<tt><pre>

quoted from

<a

href="http://www.photo.net//bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000IpW">ph

oto.net QA forum</a>

<p>

(from Langford's Advanced Photography):

<p>

Film Process Result

<p>

BW E6 or C41 Clear film

<p>

E6 C41 Contrasty, unmasked color neg

BW neg Pale BW negative

<p>

K-chrome E6 Clear film

BW neg BW neg with backing dye

still present

<p>

C41 E6 Low contrast, cyan cast slide

BW Ghost thin BW neg with mask color

</pre></tt>

I posted this late last year...you may find it interesting...Jim

<p>

XP2 Super In XTOL!

asked in the B&W Photo - Film & Processing Q&A Forum

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One of the people I share my darkroom with mistakenly developed a

roll of the new XP2 Super in XTOL 1:2 for 7.75 minutes at 78 degrees.

The XP2 was shot outside at EI 250 on a moderately bright but

overcast day. So here is the kicker...although my friend had to leave

before we could make a print, the negs looked printable, as a matter

of fact they look very printable! The processing included stopping

the negs for 30 seconds in Kodak Indicator Stop Bath. Then fixing in

Kodak Hardening Fixer mixed for film (I will get the ratio for anyone

who wants it) for 10 minutes. We then washed the negs for 10 minutes.

It was at this point that we opened the Patterson jug and found the

XP2 Super mixed in with 3 rolls of TriX. We washed for 20 minutes

then hung the film to dry but noticed chemical stain forming on the

XP2. We restopped the negs for 2 minutes and refixed for 15 more

minutes, then Hypo Clear for 5 minutes (all at constant agitation).

Then a 30 minute wash. The chemical stains seemed to have disappeared

after the reprocessing. Has anyone ever tried developing XP2 or Super

XP2 in conventional B+W chemistry? Is anyone interested in hearing

how the prints turn out? I shoot about 250 rolls of XP2 a year. I've

just started to use the Super. Does anyone want to comment on the new

XP 2 Super. This is my first time in a "User Group" so please

overlook any Faux Pax on my part. Jim

<p>

-- Jim Vanson (primary_colors@hotmail.com), August 08, 1998

Answers

XP2 Super v. non-Super

I'm interested in how the Super compares to 'old' XP2. I used to use

XP2, but became more interested in conventional films. What is your

first impression of Super?

Dana

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-- Dana H. Myers K6JQ (Dana@Source.Net), August 09, 1998.

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About 12 years ago, because I didn't know any better, I regularly

processed XP-1 in D-76. I still have some of the negatives, and have

a print in my living room from one. It is beautiful. Don't know why

it works, and I have no idea about archival properties developing

film this way, but I have some very nice negatives.

<p>

-- Darron Spohn (sspohn@concentric.net), August 12, 1998.

<p>

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Contribute an answer to "XP2 Super In XTOL!"

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bwworld@hotmail.com

As I understand it, when you expose XP2 the image is recorded in a

silver halide image as conventional films, However in development the

image is transfered to the dye which forms the final image and then

the silver is bleached away in the Bleach-Fix. I guess that using

standard B&W processing would leave you with the image held in the

grains of silver as this wont be bleached out - I would expect the

image to be grainier than normal.

<i>"using standard B&W processing would leave you with the image held in the grains of silver as this wont be bleached out - I would expect the image to be grainier than normal."</i>

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Another blast from the past... (I picked up a slew of 120 XP2 for .50/roll, and was searching for info on traditional processing of the stuff -- I prefer to have silver images for archival purposes)

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One feature of chromogenic films is that the dye couplers remain in the film after traditional B&W processing, so if you're not happy with the results, you can bleach the negatives (use either a color processing bleach -- <i>not</i> a bleach-fix!), then re-expose to light, and then finish up by giving them standard C41 processing. (You can rescue color negative film that's been given B&W processing by accident using that tactic, although these days the opposite is happening more frequently thanks to the rocket scientists behind the processing counters, and there is <i>no</I> salvation for a clear as glass strip of film that's had everything stripped out of it in the bleach-fix.)