Jump to content

Processing for Kodak TriX Film


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have a Nikon 6006 film camera and was wondering what the best film would be to get for my specific camera. I currently have the Kodak TriX film and also was wondering if there was a better way to process the film other then I am doing right now or if anyone has any tips for the processing.

 

Thank You!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, all film cameras use the same films, it just depends on what you are shooting. TriX is a good film to start with, easily developed in either D-76 or T-Max developer. Can't tell you if there's a better way to process film as you don't say how you are doing it now.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I will recommend Diafine and HC-110, my two favorites.

 

HC-110 especially for old film, as it is supposed to reduce age fog.

 

I also have some TMax developer, which I bought along with a roll each of TMZ and Delta 3200.

I will probably try it with some TMX and TMY, too, and I do hear that it is good for Tri-X, too.

 

But I have enough old film to want a low-fog developer.

-- glen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in the old days (I'm talking around 1980-85 here), we used to push tri-x to about 3200/6400 asa (iso) by using HC-110. Can't remember the dilution rate, but our time was about 3 1/4 minutes and I believe the temp was around 75 (maybe 85?). We also used Rodinal. We were working for a newspaper with a 65 line screen, so the huge particles of grain weren't a problem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you're first learning film photography, IMO you're better off sticking with one film and learning it inside and out. Tri-X is a personal favorite film of mine, and a favorite of a lot of other folks.

 

Honestly, there's nothing wrong with it per se. It's a bit grainy and is fairly contrasty, but it's easy to expose, predictable, and overall well-behaved. Kodak likes to use superlatives to describe their films, and I seem to recall Tri-X at one point carrying the designation of "World's best selling B&W film." It got that title for a reason, and it's hard to say how many frames have been exposed over the years by photojournalists, students, and many other types of both professional and amateur photographers.

 

As others have said, it's hard to give suggestions for how to "improve" development without knowing what you're doing now. Kodak D-76 is as close to a "classic" pairing with Tri-X as exists, although almost any common developer will give good results. Kodak HC-110 is another classic choice, and in many cases my preference for one over the other is governed more by handling logistics than anything else. D-76 is used either as a "stock" solution or diluted 1:1(you can use higher dilutions to reduce contrast at the cost of increased apparent grain, but you run the risk of running out of developer capacity if you're using too small of a volume of developer-8 oz. of 1:1 is probably pushing the limit of a 35mmx36 exposure roll). D-76 is generally bought in a bag as a dry powder, and the stock solution is made by mixing that powder in a given amount of water(in the US, the most common is meant to mix with 1 gallon). The water needs to be fairly warm to dissolve everything, so I usually let it sit for a day to cool down to room temperature before using. Once mixed, the stock solution is good for ~6 months in a full bottle. HC-110 comes as a "syrup" that is diluted a rather large amount(1:19 is usually the most concentrated you will see it, and folks often use it much more dilute). The syrup has a shelf life of seemingly forever, while the working strength solution should be used within a day or so of preparing-most folks, myself included, prepare the exact amount of working strength solution that we need immediately before use.

 

In any case, like with film, one of the best things you can do is just pick a developer(and dilution) and stick with it. Learn to get consistent negatives first, and once you've done that you can branch out and start experimenting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you post an example of the negatives you get now, and describe what you feel needs to be improved, or what you'd like to see different?

The advices above are all spot on, but of course if you feel somehow you hit a problem, it will help to see some examples, so people can give more specific advice and tips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My long time favorite was D-76, diluted 1:1 and tossed after one use. The unused portion lasts a long time in glass, at least a month, without visible deterioration. In my heyday, I used it up before a month had passed. Unlike expensive developers, there's no incentive to use it beyond its expiration. Best of all, D-76 is effective, producing tight, sharply defined grain, excellent sharpness, and excellent dynamic range.

 

Most "fine grain" developers contain a solvent that dissolvers some of silver, reducing visible grain at the expense of contrast and resolution. The expensive varieties often get used and re-used until the smell is unbearable.

 

Oxygen is the death of developer. Thin polyethylene, such as a milk bottle, pass oxygen like a screen door. Use heavy PE bottles if you must, but glass if you can find it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember using D-76 when I first started, but after not so long learned about Diafine from my grandfather, not long before I inherited much of his darkroom equipment. (When I was 10 years old.) Diafine was, and still is my favorite developer.

 

I only recently noticed that the recommended capacity for D-76 is pretty low, without replenishment.

 

On the other hand, at the recommended capacity a 1L bottle of HC-110 syrup will do over 100 rolls.

HC-110 is also popular for older film, as it is said to reduce fog. It is currently my favorite when I

don't use Diafine. (I have a lot of older film, some 10, 20, 30, or 40 years old.)

 

T-Max developer is recommended for T-Max films at higher EI values.

For box EI, others are probably just fine. (The Kodak chart has times for TMax 3200,

which is ISO rated at about 1000, up to EI 12,500 with T-Max developer.)

-- glen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only recently noticed that the recommended capacity for D-76 is pretty low, without replenishment.

This is something you worry about with developers that cost as much as Napoleon brandy, not D-76. Capacity is a moot issue when you use it once, diluted, and throw it away. A gallon of D-76 will develop 32 rolls of film, and not smell like a Tennessee outhouse as you reach the end.

 

With HC-110, it's a good idea to dilute it in two or more stages, using the second stage as a one-off developer. It is so concentrated that measuring a few milliliters is prone to gross errors. The holdup remaining on the walls of the graduated cylinder represents a significant fraction of the amount delivered. Be sure to rinse the measuring cup at least twice with water, adding the rinse to the mixture, before diluting to volume.

 

When you mix a powdered developer, always let it stand at least a day before use, with periodic agitation. The alternative is to have images with freckles that weren't there when you took the photo. Never filter a fresh batch. That will only remove the most important (and least soluble) components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you mix a powdered developer, always let it stand at least a day before use, with periodic agitation. The alternative is to have images with freckles that weren't there when you took the photo. Never filter a fresh batch. That will only remove the most important (and least soluble) components.

 

Also, if I'm not mistaken the directions for D76 say to use "hot" water to dissolve it, which of course helps with dissolving the "not so soluble" components. The water comes out of my tap at around 140-145ºC, which is what temperature I use for development. Of course, this is way too hot for B&W development-stored on my bathroom floor, a jug of D76 that has been there for a day usually measures 18-20ºC, which of course is perfect for B&W development(and I do measure and account for temperature differences). Of course, that means that if I want D76 today and don't have it, I have to either wait or use something else. That's where' HC-110 or Rodinal are useful(I prefer the former if I want the something that looks and acts a lot like D76).

 

I too use a syringe on HC-110. I get up a graduated cylinder of the correct volume of liquid, and then add in the correct amount. For 8oz of dilution B(which is popular) one should measure out 7.5mL to add to 232.5mL(~240mL total). I would argue that getting the 7.5mL of syrup is critical, but ending up with a total volume of 235mL or 245mL or whatever likely won't make a noticeable difference in developing time or results. The "unofficial" dilution H, if you want to avoid measuring small volumes, can be made by taking dilution B to 1:1-this comes with the caveat that you need ~6oz of concentrate per roll of 135-36, 120, 4 sheets of 4x5, or a single sheet of 8x10. Thus, when using dil. H, use a minimum of 16 oz regardless, and 32 oz. if you're 220 or 2x35mmm. Fortunately, 16 oz. of dilution B is safe for these.

 

BTW, when I talk about capacity I'm referring to how much actual developer is required to develop a roll of film. There again, 120, 135-36, 4 sheet of 4x5, and one sheet of 8x10 are all about equivalent(135-36 has a bit more surface area, but it's close enough). You need about 8oz. of straight D76 to dilute this amount of film. If you're using at higher dilutions, you CAN run into issues with developer exhaustion. Using a 16 oz. tank, you're fine with 220 or 2x-135 using straight D76, but it can be in the "danger zone" at 1:1. So is a single 135-36 roll in an 8oz. tank at 1:1. Of course, you'll probably still get results, but I don't like to push my luck and that's where you can run into issues with inconsistent development. You can even get into factors where the overall density of the negatives makes a difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I remember right, the chart for D-76 says 16 rolls/gallon.

 

I suspect I did more than that in my early photography years.

 

Also, as with most developers, you can probably do more if you increase times for later rolls.

 

I now have a magnetic stirrer to speed up dissolving developers.

 

I recently mixed a new batch of Diafine, after maybe seven years, and even at the 85F recommended, it still took a long time to dissolve, and with the stirrer.

 

I got the magnetic stirrer/hot plate from Goodwill, replaced the unusual power connector with a more usual one.

The hot plate doesn't work, some day I will see about that one. But mostly I wanted the stirrer.

 

I have a 10ml, 50ml, and 250ml graduated cylinder, usually enough to accurately mix developers.

And yes I rinse the cylinder to get everything in.

-- glen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is a magnetic stirrer, how does it work, and what does it do for developers?

 

Basically, it's a simple and(usually) efficient way to mechanically stir solutions.

 

You need two parts. The first is a stir plate, which often looks like a hot plate and in fact in many cases the two functions are combined into one(stirring hot plates). It has a variable speed motor in the base of it with a magnet on top of it.

 

You then put a teflon-coated bar magnet in your solution to be stirred. It aligns with the magnet in the stir plate, and(ideally) turns as the motor/magnet turns.

 

BTW, even though the teflon-coated magnet is typical, it's not an absolute requirement. When I was in graduate school, we used oil baths to heat most reactions. All of our oil baths(generally shallow glass dishes) had paperclips sitting in the bottom of them make sure the oil was evenly heated. We'd then use a teflon coated bar in the reaction flask-of course teflon was preferred in a reaction since it's(mostly) inert.

 

Stir bars come in a bunch of difference sizes. Many are about the diameter of a piece of chalk, and range in length from about 3/4" long to about 3" long. You can have diameter much larger, and on the other end even some called "flea" sized or "grain of rice" sized-you can picture how big those are.

 

Here's something I set up at work the other day-it's a simple reaction where I basically just need to mix the ingredients(in this case pyridine and bromoethane) and let it stir for a few days. When I have time, I'll remove the excess bromoethane under vacuum. In any case, the white piece in the bottom of the flask is a magnetic stir bar.

 

IMG_5729.thumb.jpg.17f38a497cfd5288862d3cbf68a87c46.jpg

 

The big Erlenmeyer in the background also has a somewhat larger stir bar in it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, why does stirring developers, like D76, help? Does D76 somehow precipitate out something you're trying to mix back in? I've heard of adding stuff to photographic chemicals to restore it to efficiency (though I don't know the details) but you're not doing that here unless there's a step missing. It's cool, but I suspect to mix a bottle of chemicals you'd need a pretty big one. But to stir 12 oz or so, you could probably use a setup like this, but then if there was something precipitating out, it probably would still be in the bottle after you poured out the 1 dose amount.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It basically saves you from having to shake/agitate the solution when initially adding the chemicals, as Moving On said.

 

Also, it can be handy for mixing dilutions of developers. A combo heat/stir plate can REALLY save the day if you're mixing your own developers(from constituent chemicals) as it saves having to stir that way.

 

Done properly, a magnetic stirrer should also keep oxygen dissolution from shaking the bottle to a minimum, and as you probably know oxygen is the death of developers.

 

Since I'm a chemist both my training and profession, I grab and use magnetic stirrers without really thinking about it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, if I'm not mistaken the directions for D76 say to use "hot" water to dissolve it, which of course helps with dissolving the "not so soluble" components. The water comes out of my tap at around 140-145ºC, which is what temperature I use for development.

 

Wow, steam development is a new one on me! Watch out for reticulation!

 

(Mostly, in the UK, Celsius has taken over, but the weather forecasters still use Fahrenheit to inform the old folks) . We sell our fuel in litres, but ask anyone what the fuel consumption is, and they’ll answer you in miles per gallon. I would always measure anything in millimetres or metres, but if you ask me how tall I am, I’ll tell you the answer in feet and inches

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, steam development is a new one on me! Watch out for reticulation!

 

(Mostly, in the UK, Celsius has taken over, but the weather forecasters still use Fahrenheit to inform the old folks) . We sell our fuel in litres, but ask anyone what the fuel consumption is, and they’ll answer you in miles per gallon. I would always measure anything in millimetres or metres, but if you ask me how tall I am, I’ll tell you the answer in feet and inches

 

That's what I get for answering half asleep!

 

I meant to say for dissolving...I develop at around 68ºF...actually I work entirely in celcius in the darkroom and usually use 18º or 20º...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I get for answering half asleep!

 

I meant to say for dissolving...I develop at around 68ºF...actually I work entirely in celcius in the darkroom and usually use 18º or 20º...

Me too. Fahrenheit seems an absurd scale to me, and I never got used to thinking in it. -40 is -40, that’s all I know!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

(snip)

Done properly, a magnetic stirrer should also keep oxygen dissolution from shaking the bottle to a minimum, and as you probably know oxygen is the death of developers.

 

Since I'm a chemist both my training and profession, I grab and use magnetic stirrers without really thinking about it.

 

I used to use them in chem. labs years ago, and so bid on one at a nearby Goodwill auction.

(The same place I get way too many cameras.)

 

Then I ordered a stir bar through eBay, mailed from China.

 

I try not to turn the speed up too high, as it will suck air into the mix.

 

For some reason I used an elliptical beaker, which doesn't mix as well as a round one.

 

Many developer chemicals aren't so soluble as to dissolve easily, but only eventually.

 

The one I have is supposed to have a heater, but it isn't working. Some day I will look at that.

Many developers mix at higher temperature than they are normally used at.

  • Like 1

-- glen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Me too. Fahrenheit seems an absurd scale to me, and I never got used to thinking in it. -40 is -40, that’s all I know!

 

Farenheit actually isn't as illogical or arbitrary as it seems at first. 0ºF is the temperature of a mixture of ice and brine(saturated salt water), which Farenheit thought was the lowest temperature that could be created in the lab. He set "normal body temperature" at 100ºF, even though we now know that to be closer to 98.6ºF.

 

Still, though, in most lab/chemical applications I'm more comfortable with celcius, which is why I use it. It doesn't hurt that all of my darkroom thermometers are high quality mercury-in-glass lab thermometers that I saved my work the expense of having to dispose of.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Celsius isn't so bad, but I think it would have been better to make it 0 to 200.

(That is, twice the current values.)

 

Fahrenheit degrees are about right for human temperature sensitivity.

That is, a thermostat calibrated in whole degrees works in F, but is too

coarse in C. The one I have goes in 0.5C increments.

-- glen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...