Procedure to developing BW film- a few questions about that...

<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>I'm interested in developing film, at home.<br>

I took an intro to photography class last semester and some thing are still fresh in my mind.<br>

I would like to buy chemicals and attempt to develop my own film- 1. to save money, 2. to experiment.<br>

So this is what i was told to do:<br>

A. I remember the process of loading the film unto the tank completely. My questions are mostly about the chemicals, and all...<br>

B. D-76: A 1:1 dilution. Half developer and half water. About 300ml for developing in a 10oz. tank. The agitation is done for 10 minutes with some raps in between cycles.<br>

C. Throw out developer and pour in rinse water. Agitate for 1 minute. Same temperature.<br>

D. Pour in fixer. Same temperature and 300 ml as well.This for a total of 10 minutes. Intervals of rap bottom.<br>

E. I was told that fixer is re-usable but that it can be dangerous to throw out. Or something similar. Is this true?<br>

F. Film is no longer sensitive: Fill in tank with clean water and shake hard for 20 seconds. Repeat for a total of three times.<br>

G.I can now take out reel tank and place into "fixer remover". One minute total. Agitation included. After this, repeat step F. Three times total, 2o seconds each.<br>

H. I don't remember what was next. I think "photo-flo", after that no more rinsing, hang film. or was it stop bath?</p>

<p>My questions are the following:<br>

Do i buy:</p>

<ul>

<li>D-76 developer? </li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Fixer remover ("perma wash" or "hypo clearing agent")?</li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Photo-flo?</li>

</ul>

<p>I buy at adorama, for i live close by. Please point me to the chemicals. THIS IS WHERE I NEED HELP.<br>

ANY OTHER COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ARE VERY VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.<br>

thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yes, D-76 is a good all-around developer. Some use a stop-bath between developer and fix, but water is OK too. Yes, you'll want Fixer, a Fix "remover" like Perma Wash or similar, and Photo Flo.<br>

I usually agitate the first full minute then 5 sec. every 30 sec. for the rest of the time, rapping the tank after the first minute to dislodge air bubbles. </p>

<p>D-76, or Ilford's totally equivalent ID-11 would be fine developers. Just note that the mixed gallon has a finite shelf life, if you can't use it up before it goes bad, a liquid concentrate that you mix for each roll might be more cost-effective. For instance, Ilford DD-X, Ilford Ilfosol 3, Kodak HC-110 (but mixing from the thick syrup is tricky), Kodak TMAX, or Rodinal.<br>

Not that a gallon of D-76 is all that expensive.<br>

Fixer is re-usable. Each type of fixer has a capacity of how many rolls you can fix with a gallon. Best thing to do with spent fixer is to give it to any photo lab, who will pour it into their silver recovery system, and should thank you profusely. They get money back for the silver they recover, and you protect the environment by keeping the silver in spent fixer out of the environment.</p>

<p>Step A is dependent on the film as well as the temperature of the developer (and the dilution....which you already specified). The ideal temperature is 68 degrees F, this gives you latitude depending on whether you used the mfr's ISO rating....something above or below it. Remember to mix the D76 per instructions at a higher temperature to dissolve the solids, cool it and then dilute it. Here's a chart which should be helpful to you: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php</p>

<p>You can use a stop bath <strong>between </strong>developing and fixing instead of rinse water, this helps save your fixer to work longer. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>The agitation is done for 10 minutes with some raps in between cycles.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This depends on the film and developer combination. You can get info at <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php">http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php</a> for different films. I like to get the info from the film manufacturer also.</p>

<p>For fixer, you want to fix for twice the amount of time that it takes to clear the film. If the film is clear at 2 minutes then fix for another 2 minutes. If it is still cloudy then fix for another minute or so and check again. This all depends on the fixer and the film also. I reuse my fixer until it is exhausted. You can do a clip test, use the same film for all of the tests of your batch. Clip a small piece off (about an inch or so) and put a drop of fixer on it, let it sit for 30 seconds, then put it in a small cup or lid of fixer (film immersed) and see how long it takes for the dot to disappear, that is your starting time for clearing. Use your fixer until this time is about double. I usually use 16 ounces of fixer to fix about 12 or so rolls of film. I usually start testing about the 8th or 9th roll of film.</p>

<p>For Hypo clear, rinse for a minute (I do this under running water, same temp as chemistry) and then follow instructions on the Hypo clear package.</p>

<p>I usually skip the hypo clear and just rinse the film for 30 minutes and then 60 seconds of photoflo, then remove from reel and hang dry.</p>

<p>As far as the film for the clip test, get a sacrificial roll of something, and use it to keep your tests consistent. I have an old roll that was way expired in bulk loader so I use that, test to be done in room light, by the way.</p>

<p>I really like D76, what fixer are you planning on using? Stop bath, Hypo clear and photoflo are all extras that are not absolutely necessary but nice for their own reasons. Stop bath helps keep your fixer keep better, Hypo clear cuts down your rinsing time and photoflo helps it to dry without water spots.</p>

<p>What films are you planning on using? I would suggest that you start with one or two films and stick with them until you become proficient. The reason I say 2 is some people like to shoot a slow and a fast film. I would recommend either Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5, they are both 400 speed film and are good for general photography.</p>

<p>wow you sure got a LOT of advice!<br>

if you can load the film on the reel you have won half the battle.<br>

35mm film is a lot easier to deal with then the 2 1/4"<br>

wide 120 film.<br>

after the film is in the tank and you pour in the developer.<br>

the purpose of the RAP , banging the tank on the table- not too hard.<br>

is to remove "air bells" small bubbles on the film.<br>

the purpose of the initial adgitation is to make sure the film is wet.<br>

Plastic tank ":twirl the knob" Metal tank- usually invert.<br>

Stop bath or sometimes white vinegar ( mixed with a lot of water)<br>

is acidic and the developer is alkaline.<br>

Either a rince betreen development and fixing has two effects.<br>

It stope the development, so you know how long the film has been developed<br>

and secondly, it prevents getting developer in the fixer which weakens it and contaminates it.</p>

<p>the hardest thing is getting the temerasture of the solutions right.<br>

a chart that gives time/temp for 68-70-72 degrees<br>

makes it easier for you. you adjust the time a bit which is easier than<br>

fiddling around adding hot water cold water to adjust the solutions to exactly 68 degrees.</p>

<p>The Perma wash ( or kodak hypo clearing solution)<br>

is to neutralize the acid fixer, and prevent the negatives from turning brown in a few years.<br>

the Photo flo is like a mild detergent to prevent water spots./</p>

<p>Later On when you make prints and enlargements, a different developer will be used.<br>

the same KIND of fixer, BUT save some of the fixer and use it only for film.<br>

Paper uses up the fixer faster. if a print gets messed up it can be re-done.<br>

but your negatives are meant to be permanent. so treat them carefully.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>I really like D76, what fixer are you planning on using?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I am not sure.If you recommend a fixer (by taking into account that I will use either d76 or HC110) I will try what you recommend. I'm not sure if i should go liquid or powder. That, I will try to investigate soon.<br>

For the photo flow, I've found "Kodak pho-flo 200. <br />Maybe i will use this.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>What films are you planning on using?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I use neopan/kodak tri-x 400.</p>

<p>Thank you Clay James for taking the time to ask and your interest in helping. Also, a thank you to other members of this forum. Your interest in answering helps loads and makes things easier.<br>

My best of luck to all of you, :)</p>

 

<p>I would recommend a liquid fixer that way you can mix up what you will use. Powder fixer, like a powdered developer, needs to be mixed up all at once. I have used Kodafix and Kodak Rapid Fixer and I have a few bags of Kodak's powdered fixer but I have not mixed any of it up yet. </p>

<p>HC-110 is nice as it keeps for a long time. I do normally use D-76 myself. I am currently using HC-110 as I need to take the time to mix up a batch of D-76.<br>

Kodak Tri-X is a nice film and it does not require extended fixing times like Tmax films or Ilford's Delta films.</p>

<p>If you need a reference for times and dilutions against films, temperatures and developers, there is always the Massive Development Chart. <br>

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php<br>

It will be the temperature, as noted above, that determines if the ten minute duration is right; look at the MDC; there's a tab in there somewhere for converting times based on temperature; hunt around in there some and you'll probably find what you need if you get into a situation where you need to cut or add time.</p>

<p>Just don't hang the world on one roll of film. Shoot, reload, develop, repeat.</p>

<p>Here is ILFORDS web site it is also a wealth of info. http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=16</p>

<p>Re. washing the film. I use the Ilford Method: fill the tank with water at 15-20 C, invert 5 times, empty, refill, invert 10 times, empty, refill, invert 20 times. I give a final refill and 40 inversions just for good measure.<br>

Then dunk in water plus wetting agent. My favourites are Paterson Acuwet or Tetenal Mirasol. Use the least amount of wetting agent which will disperse the water.</p>

<p>I have heard about needing longer wash times for film with the use of a fixer that has a hardener in it. I can't find anything on Ilford's website about it though. In the forums there, there were a few people that had talked about a modified system were the first wash was only 1 inversion, then 5, 10, 20, 40 and let it sit for a few minutes then dunk in wetting agent then hang/dry.</p>

<p>Source for the following quote is from Ilford forum thread discussing archival washing, post author is titrisol in <a href="http://www.ilfordphoto.com/photocommunity/forums/theforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6528&whichpage=2&SearchTerms=film,washing,method,with,hardening,fixer">this Thread</a>.<br /> Here is the Quote:<br /> quote:</p>

<hr id="quote" noshade="noshade" />

<p><br /> <br />THE USE OF HARDENER<br /><br />Hardeners such as ILFORD RAPID HARDENER, should only be used in fixers to prevent mechanical damage of films and reduce drying times in processing machines. They should not be used for black and white paper processes. When used with black and white film products the washing time must be inceased considerably to ensure complete washing.<br /><br />Incomplete washing will produce prints or negatives that will degrade with time.<br /><br />FILM<br /><br />Where a non-hardening fixer, such as HYPAM, has been used, washing the film in running water for 5-10 minutes at a temperature within 5°C of the processing temperature is required.<br /><br />For spiral tank use, when a non-hardening fixer has been used, the following method of washing is recommended which uses less water yet still gives negatives of archival permanence.<br /><br /> * 1 Process the film in a spiral tank.<br /> * 2 Fix it using ILFORD HYPAM fixer.<br /> * 3 After fixation, fill the tank with water at the same temperature as the processing solutions, and invert it five times.<br /> * 4 Drain the water away and refill. Invert the tank ten times.<br /> * 5 Drain and refill it for the third time and invert the tank twenty times. Drain the water away.<br /><br /><br />A final rinse in water to which a few drops of ILFORD ILFOTOL wetting agent has been added will aid rapid and uniform drying.<br /><br />Using this sequence will result in water savings of over 85% compared to using continuous running water.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I've been doing this at home for a while (and have moved several times in the interim) and have learned the following: <br>

I find mixing powdered developer harder than liquid. For one thing, it has to be mixed all at once, usually to a specific temperature, and until all the powder dissolves. Mixing a liquid from concentrate can be tricky, but once figured out, it's economical... with HC-110, I measure the syrup with a graduated turkey baster... I'm not disturbing the upper layer and keep oxidation of it to a minimum. My current bottle of concentrate is about 2 years old, and I've not noticed any difference from when it was opened.</p>

<p>Everything you need to do this: tanks, beakers (for measuring/mixing), film clips, timers, etc- should be able to live in one box. It will stay out of the way, clean, and away from cats/small children/Omnipresent Man. If you measure directly from syrup and use the Ilford tank method of washing, it will all fit into a single Rubbermade-style box. Popular Science, many years ago, had an article about a complete darkroom that fit into a suitcase... same idea here.</p>

<p>Development time, as is said above, varies by film and developer and temperature. In practice, with Black and White film, I've stopped taking the temperature of anything. Of course, being in Michigan, this is probably not the best way to do it...</p>

<p>One last thing: God invented silver for a reason. Have at it, and have a good time.</p>

<p>"Do i buy:</p>

<ul>

<li>D-76 developer? </li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Fixer remover ("perma wash" or "hypo clearing agent")?</li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Photo-flo?"</li>

</ul>

<p>Yes.<br>

And final rinse with Photo-Flo should be with distilled water.<br>

I have only been developing my own film for just under 2 years, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. If you are rinsing your film long enough to get rid of any anti-halation layer color, I don't know what real benefit that hypo really is for film.<br>

I do the hypo rinse of film just because, and reuse it for my prints.<br>

If I am alive in 10 years from now, I suppose I will find out if this is a good thing or bad thing.</p>

<p>The Hypo clear helps remove the fixer from the film. If you read the instructions (Kodak), it says to rinse the film for 1 minute then soak in Hypo clear for 1-2 minutes then rinse for 5 minutes. Without hypo clear, Kodak recommends rinsing in running water for 30 minutes.</p>