Problem with Rollei P11 dual format slide projector

<p>Good afternoon,<br>

I have a Rollei P11 dual format slide projector and can't get it to work. The fan and the lamp work, but I cannot get the arms that pull in the slides to slide out. I know from the manual that I have to press the second button from the left to slide the arms out, and there is a low-volume deep buzzing sound when I press that button, but the arms remain in the retracted position. Any ideas as to what could be the problem? Do you think I will be able to fix this problem or should I consider the projector a writeoff? I would be grateful for any advice you may have.<br>

Best wishes,<br>

David</p>

<p>Sometimes the mechanism gets stuck. Open up the top and turn the big geared wheel a bit by hand. Then try the button again. It works on mine. </p>

<p>Hi Ferdi,<br>

Thank you very much for your suggestion! Unfortunately it didn't help; the arms are still stuck. I then took off the top cover and, at the first glance, wasn't able to see anything that may cause the problem. Unfortunately I also made the mistake of unscrewing the two screws underneath the top cover, next to the focusing button and the top cover opening button -- and a washer now disappeared somewhere inside. Might become a long evening...<br>

Cheers,<br>

David</p>

<p>Hello David,</p>

<p>What about the forward button and the backward button? Any movement at all? Can you turn the wheel all around by hand? I shall check mine tomorrow.</p>

<p>Ferdi.</p>

<p>Hi Ferdi,<br>

I found the washer. I also realized that one of the heat protection filters had come out of its metal frame and fixed it.<br>

As for the arms: the black wheel on the top of the projector does not turn all around. It turns from the hole in the 4 o'clock position to the 8 o'clock position. At the 6 o'clock position the light channel is free whereas at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions it is almost closed. When going through this process the arms move a little, but only very little (about 3mm or 1/8 of an inch). The two "carts" on the top of the projector which actuate the movement of the arms only move about 1/14 (very rough estimate) of their total travel. However, this may be perfectly normal -- maybe only the button at the back of the projector can move out the arms all the way. I will now reassemble the projector and see whether anything has changed. (Unlikely but my only hope at the moment.)<br>

Here are a few photos that I made that illustrate what's (not) going on: http://haardt.net/rollei-p11-problem.jpg<br>

Cheers,<br>

David</p>

<p>About the forward and backward buttons: both of them make a sound. The forward button does not seem to cause any action, neither in the slide arms nor in the small metal "feet" that move the magazines. The backward button, however, does move those metal "feet" (it causes the front feet on both sides to move upwards and the rear feet on both sides to move downwards), but not the slide arms. This is true regardless of whether I use the buttons on the projector or the buttons on the remote control.<br>

David</p>

<p>Hi David,</p>

<p>I have checked mine. The black wheel can be turned around at will both ways. Both forward and backward buttons make the mechanism work even without trays.</p>

<p>The top cover has to be completely closed for the projector to work. The little red button under the top hatch is the security switch that has to be pushed in (by the hatch) or power will be interrupted. You could check the wiring of this switch. When pushed the red switch produces a relatively loud click. Check for this. Also look for loose parts in the slide transport system that block proper movement. Pieces of glass or plastic from broken slides.</p>

<p>Looking from above the widest points of the arms move about 45 and 60 mm out of the cream top when the wheel is turned. </p>

<p>With respect to servicing the situation is this. The machine can be cleaned and relubed but spare-parts seem to be unavailable. Check with the repair shop before sending it in for service.</p>

<p>I hope this helps,<br>

Ferdi.</p>

<p>The problem can be deeper in the projector, the sliding mechanism is powered by the motor over a rubber roller. This roller hardens with age, either getting stuck to mechanism or failing to transfer the motor power to the feed mechanism.</p>

<p>Sorry for digging up an old thread but I wanted to put this here for future reference. I'm sure it will help another P11 owner. It wont make any sense unless you've seen inside a P11</p>

<p>Keywords - Rollei P11 friction rubber drive wheel slipping not advancing changing slides<br>

<strong>I asked Roelof</strong><br>

"My projector is also not working and you nailed the problem in one! The magnet that actuates and pulls the rubber roller against the drive shaft works but the rubber gear can't get any traction. I have tried adjusting the magnet actuator to the rubber gear exerts more force but it didn't work. I was hoping that because you knew what the problem was, you may also know of a fix?"<br /><br /><strong>Roelof replied</strong><br /><br />"Fortunately mine worked after cleaning the roller with brake cleaner (very agressive degreaser, not to be sprayed on you risk dissolving the roller completely . I sprayed the cleaner on a cloth and very lightly rubbed the roller. On one of my Linhof magazines that advances the film over a rubber roller I had to slide a piece of bicycle inner tube from a thin racing tube over the roller to get traction , perhaps you can buy some rubber hose and make do with that if the original roller is too far gone. Good luck fixing it , it is an awesome machine"<br>

<strong>My Solution</strong><br>

I tried both brake cleaner and a type of liquid used to stop leaks from power steering and transmissions (it works by swelling the rubber seals). Both of these did not work.<br>

The roller is 23mm in diameter and I could not source a small enough bike inner tube to cut up into rubber bands and fit over the roller. This would be the best option. Instead I cut the finger of some rubber gloves into rubber bands and stretched them over the drive roller. The rubber is not as good quality as an inner tube but it did work.<br>

After some use the rubber bands slipped off. I have now fixed them in place by bonding the rubber bands to the drive wheel with some rubber cement. It is now fully functional again<br>

And for completeness the "low-volume deep buzzing sound" that David heard is the electromagnet not fully engaging. This can be adjusted and may have been the fix for David's projector if the rubber wheel was still in good condition</p>

<div></div>

<p>Sorry for digging up an old thread but I wanted to put this here for future reference. I'm sure it will help another P11 owner. It wont make any sense unless you've seen inside a P11</p>

<p>Keywords - Rollei P11 friction rubber drive wheel slipping not advancing changing slides<br>

<strong>I asked Roelof</strong><br>

"My projector is also not working and you nailed the problem in one! The magnet that actuates and pulls the rubber roller against the drive shaft works but the rubber gear can't get any traction. I have tried adjusting the magnet actuator to the rubber gear exerts more force but it didn't work. I was hoping that because you knew what the problem was, you may also know of a fix?"<br /><br /><strong>Roelof replied</strong><br /><br />"Fortunately mine worked after cleaning the roller with brake cleaner (very agressive degreaser, not to be sprayed on you risk dissolving the roller completely . I sprayed the cleaner on a cloth and very lightly rubbed the roller. On one of my Linhof magazines that advances the film over a rubber roller I had to slide a piece of bicycle inner tube from a thin racing tube over the roller to get traction , perhaps you can buy some rubber hose and make do with that if the original roller is too far gone. Good luck fixing it , it is an awesome machine"<br>

<strong>My Solution</strong><br>

I tried both brake cleaner and a type of liquid used to stop leaks from power steering and transmissions (it works by swelling the rubber seals). Both of these did not work.<br>

The roller is 23mm in diameter and I could not source a small enough bike inner tube to cut up into rubber bands and fit over the roller. This would be the best option. Instead I cut the finger of some rubber gloves into rubber bands and stretched them over the drive roller. The rubber is not as good quality as an inner tube but it did work.<br>

After some use the rubber bands slipped off. I have now fixed them in place by bonding the rubber bands to the drive wheel with some rubber cement. It is now fully functional again<br>

And for completeness the "low-volume deep buzzing sound" that David heard is the electromagnet not fully engaging. This can be adjusted and may have been the fix for David's projector if the rubber wheel was still in good condition</p>

<div>[ATTACH=full]1147032[/ATTACH]</div>

i do have little bit different issue, the arms are moving bery slow if they move, only if i use lower button for focusing not the top one. Any advise ? Thank you Ed

I have just rescued a p11

A good clean inside and out

The rubber? Wheel was very hard and glazed so gently cleaned the rim with emery cloth and then with MEK a rubber rejuvenate chemical

It was quite a bit better but still not perfect.

If i helped the solonoid it was snappy and perfect

Measuring the voltage across the solonids it was only 15v dc and if the reverse solonoid was used at the same time it dropped to 12v

So i added a 100uf cap across the dc side of the bridge rectifier

The whole machine is now perfect