Problem with Commander mode in Nikon D700

<p>I have a setup with an SB900 and a SB800 used as remote flashes in a wireless setup. Both these are set as remote flashes. Custom function e3 (Commander mode) on the D700 has been set up so that both these flashes are in TTL mode and the built-in flash has been set to 'Flash cancelled' (--). The channel has been set to 1 in all three flashes. The problem is that, while the SB900 and SB800 fire as they should, the built-in flash also fires when I take the shot. Somehow I can't get the built-in flash to not fire. Would be grateful if someone can tell me what I am doing wrong.<br>

Thanks in advance for the help<br>

Javed Shakoor</p>

<p>The on-board flash needs to fire to communicate CLS data to the remote flashes. It's visible light (perhaps about 17 discrete pulses).</p>

<p>Unfortunately, the communication pulses can, and often do, get into the lighting mix, as they don't complete before the exposure takes place. That's another story....</p>

<p>I don't believe you can completely eliminate the built-in flash from firing as that is how it communicates with your two flashes. But the way you have it set, it should have little or no effect on your image. You may want to consider an SU-800 which has many advantages over using the built-in flash as a commander. There are other options (see below).</p>

<p>This question has been asked many times before:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/search/?cx=000753226439295166877%3A0gyn0h9z85o&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&q=commander+flash+cover&filter=0&as_qdr=&sa=Search+Photo.net#1404</p>

<p>You may find this particular thread of interest:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Gdry</p>

<p>You need this Nikon accessory to block the visible flash and still maintain CLS:</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/410445-REG/Nikon_4905_SG_3IR_IR_Panel.html</p>

<p>Great link, Elliot. Lot's of info there.</p>

<p>In some cases, the CLS pulses can have significant effect -- such as in low light when dragging the shutter. That's why I use the SG-3IR IR filter. This is not theoretical, I've had the problem and have mitigated it with the SG-3IR. I've heard that one can also cover the flash with unexposed, developed slide film for the same effect.</p>

<p>The SU-800 is a cool unit (and I wouldn't mind having one), but the on-board flash is free and can work pretty well. Some call the on-board flash amateurish, but I look at it soley as a built-in commander -- quite valuable. I've used it quite a bit on my D200 and plan to continue that with my new D700.</p>

By Shun:

 

http://www.photo.net/equipment/nikon/guide-to-ttl-flashes/

 

others:...

 

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00SLaX

 

more...

 

 

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Rys4

 

...more...

 

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00SHsg

 

...more...

 

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00S8B4

 

...more...

 

http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00S4nY

<p>I had a problem with the too bright pre-flash, too. It shows up as an unwanted glare or catch light in any close and shiny object (like eyes) or reflective walls/windows. And it makes people blink, which can be a problem if you are balancing the flash with low ambient light levels that requires a slow shutter speed.</p>

<p>I solved the problem with a small piece of infrared filter tapes over the pop up flash. Works great by killing almost all the visible light.... t</p><div></div>

<p>I just taped one to my D700 and ran the tape top to bottom (instead of side to side, as on the D200 in the above photo)... much cleaner looking and if you press the tape close over the top of the flash's lens, it doesn't show at all with the flash closed... t</p>

<p>I wonder from where the CLS commander signal is sent. If you cover up the pop-up flash as Tom demonstrates above, will it affect the commander capability? E.g. blocking part of the signal, shorten the effective commanding distance, etc.</p>

<p>It might shorten the distance, but I only use the SB800 like this hand held, for fast and close, on TTL. Any serious work is done with the light on a stand, in manual with a Pocket Wizard. Even when the flash is on a bracket, I use an SC17.</p>

<p>As with any advice gleaned from an internet forum, you can trust but you'd better verify... t</p>

<p>Here is something that may be of use: Nikon SG-3IR IR Panel for Camera Built-In Flash <br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=410445&is=REG">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=workaround.jsp&A=details&Q=&sku=410445&is=REG</a></p>

 

<p>and that looks like a more fragile version of my solution. Note that it is made for macro, so the question still remains concerning pre-flash signal strength after IR filtration... t</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for all the responses. The links provided were full of very useful information. Can't help wishing, however, that Nikon had clarified this point in the User Manual. They clearly state that the built-in flash, or any of the other groups, will not fire if they are set to '--'.<br>

Thanks again for all the help.</p>