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Pro-100: Print on same paper multiple time ?


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Can I print test images in different locations on the same page multiple times with a Canon Pro-100? IOW, I'd print one test image, evaluate, and then print a modified version in a different location but on the same sheet? Later rinse, repeat.

 

Just trying to save on the costs of paper.

 

Thanks all

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You should have gotten Canon My Image Garden with your printer - if you open that and go to Create / Photo Layout, there are a variety of options for multiple prints on a single sheet. You will either have to do all your work to start and select all of the edits for one pass - or, and I haven't tried this, reorient the paper and feed it through again after the first pass. What I do for proofs is use small size inexpensive house brand paper or Costco paper, then make the large print when satisfied. An interesting thought your question brought to mind is whether or not it would be possible to print overlapping images on a single sheet as we did in darkroom by superimposing negatives. Something to try.
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.................An interesting thought your question brought to mind is whether or not it would be possible to print overlapping images on a single sheet as we did in darkroom by superimposing negatives. Something to try.

 

I think that it would be easiest to overlap the images as separate layers in Photoshop with various blending options, and then print the results.

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Thanks Sandy. I'd thought about that but the options for corrections are too vast. Better I think to print, make adjustments, print again, make adjustments, etc. Hopefully I'll eventually get to where I can come close to nailing it on the first try but I think I'm a ways from being there.

 

I think many overlay creations can be done in PS or Affinity but some rely on the ink actually being physically overlayed for the desired effect. Years ago I did an overlay where we'd print an image and then fix some paper over a portion and print another image that was partially on the new paper and partially overlaying the first print and then repeated this a couple of more times. The end result was interesting. I'll have to find a slide (yes, this was before digital) of it to post.

 

My concern with just trying it is that I don't want it to mess up the head in any way. I don't think it would but I'd hate to have to buy a new head from trying to save a few bucks on paper.

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Good question. I was actually taught this technique in a fine art printing class I took by Stephen Johnson. It worked fine on the Epson printers we had in the class (3800s as I recall), and it works fine on my Epson P600, with one very big limitation. My P600 will print multiple times (usually 3) on papers up to about 250gsm, but struggles or even refuses to feed papers heavier than that more than once. The problem is more likely tied to paper thickness than paper weight, but I don't remember the actual thicknesses. Be sure to note what changes you made for each print; otherwise after a few iterations, you will get them confused and then can't go back. (keeping virtual copies in LR or separate saved files would fix this). This technique is especially useful in sorting out color casts to b&w prints. Let us know your results
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Compositing and masking is best done digitally, then printed. Use of Adobe Photoshop in this regard is well presented in the eponymous book, "Photoshop Compositing and Masking" by Katrin Eismann. This is directly comparable to using overlapped negatives to make a print. Printing in multiple passes is comparable to printing in the darkroom using multiple negatives, separately. The problem is that exposures are cumulative, especially in shadow areas, but also dulling the hightlights. Photoshop compositing gives you complete control over layers and transparency, so the results could be printed normally, in one pass.

 

The quality of an inkjet printing is affected by the paper surface and texture. Rinsing ink from the paper would render it useless, expecially for making test prints. Overlaying prints would have some of the same issues, because previous layers would affect the absorption and spread of subsequent layers. You could print in non-overlapping areas, like test patterns or small prints, to save expensive ink and paper. Turning the paper 90 degrees would go against the grain, which would affect the closeness of the print heads, hence dot gain and possible smearing.

 

The need to make test prints is greatly diminished if your monitor is calibrated and you have a good print profile for the particular paper and printer. An X-Rite i1 Studio costs about the same as 500 sheets of 8x11 Canon Photo paper. If hard to justify on paper cost alone (for me, about 2 years), think of the time and frustration involved in testing each new print by trial and error. With a calibrated monitor, I find that images I send out to be printed are more consistent and generally acceptable.

Edited by Ed_Ingold
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"Compositing and masking is best done digitally, then printed. Use of Adobe Photoshop in this regard is well presented in the eponymous book, "Photoshop Compositing and Masking" by Katrin Eismann. This is directly comparable to using overlapped negatives to make a print."

 

Not necessarily. Using photoshop is the same, or at least produces similar results, as overlapping negatives in an enlarger. Multi layer or multi pass printing with ink can be quite different though. The sheen and texture can change with each layer as can the edges where a later layer overlays a previous layer. I don't know how this would work with the Pro-100 but the results can be very dramatic with presses and screen printing.

 

BTW, agree about good calibration. I've currently an older Spyder that does a fair job but should upgrade to an I1. Even so this is a rather new area for me and I'm guessing I'll be experimenting with different things for a while.

Edited by IanOliver
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Surprises are for amateurs and dilettantes. Consistency and reproducibility are talents to be cherished in the quest for professionalism.

 

A second layer of ink is going to wet the paper differently than the first time. The effect will depend on the nature of the ink, and how long the previous layer has dried. I would expect pigment type inks to be more predictable than with the dye-based Pro-100, but I can't imagine anything good in either case. The darkest parts of a typical print are close to saturating the paper. Another layer of ink is likely to spread, possibly to the point of smearing, or even distorting the paper.

 

I went on to explain the challenges I have experienced overlaying negatives. Some of us got started before the digital age, and recognize better methods and techniques now at our disposal..

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I would not recommend running printed paper again thru printer unless paper has dried atleast a day.

 

Once when I had just got hp deskjet, I printed to backside of paper and in same evening to frontside of paper. What a horrible mess, all rollers were in ink and it took couple of cleanings with solvent cloth and number of copy paper sheets to get unsmeared print again.

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He's doing for the effect, not to save money/ink/paper

 

Ah, I see now.

 

The Pro 100 does not add any coating other than the inks. So I suspect you could print repeatedly. I believe Lightroom would allow you to position multiple images on a single page, or change the position if you printed repeatedly.

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He's doing for the effect, not to save money/ink/paper.

 

I think he should just go ahead and do it and see what happens and let us know how it went.

 

Although I advocate for composing different versions of the image that the OP wants to print digitally for printing as a mosaic on one sheet of paper, I agree with Charles, just go ahead and make multiple passes with one sheet of paper and see what happens. For the initial test, make only two passes. If that is successful, you might try more passes. But, be sure to let the paper dry thoroughly between passes, or you may be repeating Hapiens' experience! And report back.

 

Often, running an experiment is more enlightening than analyzing a situation to death (analyses paralyses).

Edited by Glenn McCreery
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This has moved from the original question of printing tests and then eventual corrected results on a single sheet of paper. For montage or collage type efforts, Microsoft Auto Collage can be had as a free trial and inexpensively for purchase. I used the 2008 version, which was quite good, but new improved versions (2018-2019) are available.
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